UKC

A while ago I wrote a blog on top tips for Denali's West Buttress. Someone commented asking if I'd do a similar a piece on the gear I took on the Cassin Ridge.

I've finally got around to writing it up, it is unashamedly geeky I'm afraid. I've tried to proof read it, but please point out any of the inevitable errors.

http://www.tomripleyclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/the-gear-for-cassin.htm...

Hope this is interesting/helpful.

Cheers,

TR

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: that was interesting. One question I have been pondering recently is when we say about apline climbs, there were a couple of pitches of scottish grade y, and whether we tend to increase or decrease the grade from routes actually in scotland because taken in isolation they are not like the rest of the route?

i.e. you refer to a couple of pitches of V but it doesnt really look like scottish v in the crux pics (bearing in mind from below it never looks as hard) so is it that it 'feels' like V because of the situation/climbing you have already done or that it 'is' V?

And I suppose, why do we even try and say its scottish grade, when it isnt scotland?

In reply to smithaldo:


The bulge in the Japanese Couloir felt like the Rouge pitch at Easter. The "crux" bit above Cassin Ledge was probably easy IV. There was one pitch at the top of the 2nd rock band that felt V, apparently you can skirt round it though. There were another two or three short rocky steps that felt like IV 5 in isolation.

I used a Scottish grade, because it is a grade that I and most other UK climbers can best relate too.

Good questions btw.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Quote of the Blog:

"Toothbrush - My mouth felt pretty minging at the end of it and cleaning my teeth back at 14k was semi-orgasmic. "

Alpinists, sexy bunch aren't we.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Thanks, I'd love to do the Cassin and I found that blog post and your film really interesting and inspiring, sounds like you had a pretty good ratio of fun/suffering!

Damo must be still frothing at the mouth about Kenton's style that he hasn't had chance to lay into me... yet.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Really good post. 'Unashamedly geeky' is my favourite sort of gear blog.

If GU makes you feel like Mark Twight then I should buy some. I'd agree regarding 'real food' though - I find on any prolonged day out that it's the pork pies etc. that taste better than the flapjacks and bars.

Regarding the Brynje string stuff, I'm still to try it, but Aclima are the other company that I know of who do similar stuff made of PP. The theory is absolutely sound and its nice when they work in real life: I've got a 'string' vest made by Craft http://www.wiggle.co.uk/craft-cool-mesh-superlight-sleeveless-base-layer/ which is absolutely amazing. I'm completely sold on it. The problem is that when worn on its own it makes you look like a sexual predator.

In reply to Mr Fuller:

Indeed. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OhwYSDFm1nQ/UH00H0AU_XI/AAAAAAAAAT4/pwM6Wf99-t4/s...

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

For gels, it's got to be Torq, they're the only ones worth eating IMO.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: I need to chuck out my shell suit before I get arrested.