UKC

do you carry on say a multi-pitch E2 when E2 is near your current limit and you don't know what's coming up i.e. worst case. I've just purchased 6 x BD Camalot C4's up to Size 2 and I can't decide how many of my old Quadcams/Friends to hang on to. I'm sure they will be easier to sell as a job lot of similar sizes plus a couple of larger ones which I may replace with Dragons as I like the idea of an extendable sling on larger cams.

Do many people double up on the more frequently used units. I've never bothered but then I have also been accused of not carrying enough gear at times.

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2 and 2.5 for everything (friend sizes, although they're a mixed bunch and the 2.5 is the BD equivalent which goes a touch larger)

I used to get by for years with 1.5, 2 and 2.5

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

In the general way (assuming longish unknown pitches) I used to carry 0.5, 1, 2 x 1.5, 2 x 2, 2 x 2.5, 3 and 3.5, plus a couple of Aliens and a 4 if the route looked suitable for it.

These days I just rack up with what my partner hands me.

jcm

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
I don't climb E2 but I own 14 cams two of those are too large for most routes, of the remaining 12, 3 of them are doubles and I only carry them on some grit or occasionally multi pitch routes. For most routes I carry 9 cams (two are micros of the same size as WC 00 and 0).

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: Might depend on the rock a bit; for Norwegian granite cracks for example, I've found you might as well take double everything as you'll most likely use them all. But those pitches are often 40 mtrs+, I've found that UK multipitch routes often have much shorter pitches, in which case you might not need so many.

In reply to nniff:

I used to get by without any

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

Don't sell them. Take up aid climbing. I've just packed >50 cams in the haul bag for next week in Yosemite.

In reply to David Coley:

I agree.

Or take as many to Indian Creek.

In reply to GridNorth:

So did everybody who climbed in 1978.

I also try to climb with none if possible.

No bruised thighs or tangles and so light.

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

9 total (2 are micro's) but would encourage partner to take 2 or 3 for belays .

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: 18 and some small wires.

In reply to krikoman: That's a lot. Do you carry fewer passive nuts as a consequence?

I should have added, I'm taking about typical UK trad, not endless, soaring Utah cracks.

I'd usually take a min of five: friend 0.5 to friend 2.5

In addition, I might take any of, or all of, a friend 3, small cams at 0 and 00, or a spare 1.5 if the route was long, or MP or involved wide/small cracks.

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

I've that selection without the 0.75, and carry friends 1.5 and 2 instead to add an extra in the mid sizes.