In reply to snoop6060:
> I'm putting together a rough plan to get ready for a trip to squamish in September. A few questions for anyone's that been.
I live in Squamish and climb full-time.
> 1) Is there any point in making grade comparisons? I cannot really get my head around the american system, but am trying to work out routes to aim for. I climb upto E4 normally....a bit harder on bolts (7b ish) would this put the grand wall in my sights?
No (grade comps). Yes (grand wall).
> 2) Is it all predominately jamming and laybacking? I am not that bad at cracks, but am far better at face climbing. May have to get some crack training planned.
No. There's world-class vertical granite face climbing at Pet wall and a few other cliffs, vast amounts of sport climbing on gneiss 15 minutes north at Chek and elsewhere, plus terrifying granite friction routes on the Chief and at Shannon Falls.
> 3) What classic routes are worth a look at? Interested in some long easy ones too.
There's an excellent top 100 list in the Squamish Select guide.
http://www.quickdrawpublications.com/Book%20Samples/Select%20Top%20100.pdf
> 4) Is Squamish expensive? THe normal barrometer for me is the price of a pint...how much is a pint?
It's expensive but nothing like, say, Norway. Canned beer is not too bad ... $10 for a six pack. For food there are three supermarkets and Walmart so it is worth shopping around if you are here for a while.
> 5) I'm gonna get spanked right?!
Dunno.
> 6) Would a double rack of camelots, and double rack of master cams and various sizes of wires generally suffice? And a 70m single? We could also take 50m halfs possibly.
Sounds fine. Don't bring half ropes, no-one uses them.