UKC

NEWS: Multiple E7+ Onsights at Cloggy

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 UKC News 12 Jun 2013
George Ullrich on the top section of Authentic Desire, E7 6b, 3 kbDuring the recent spell of dry weather, the mountains of North Wales have seen some frenzied attention from a number of strong teams, with the bulk of the action happening at Clogwyn d'ur Arddu, high up on the slopes of Snowdon. Many hard routes have been ticked in extremely impressive style; Authentic Desire, E7 6b, Shaft of a Dead Man, E7 6b, and It'll Be Alright on the Night, E7 6b, all getting onsight ascents and Margins of the Mind, E7/8 6c, recieving a very good onsight effort...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68119
 Red Rover 12 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Nobody's trying according to Johnny!
 Cardi 12 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Great roundup Dunc, but you got the apostrophe in the wrong place! Seems like a common mistake. It should read Clogwyn du'r arddu. Gareth
In reply to Cardi:

Duh!
In reply to Red Rover:

Johnny's point was mainly directed to new routing.

Impressive once onsighting Authentic Desire is a warm-up, though. One might say that rather made Johnny's point. Leo H onsighted AD - what, fifteen years ago? - as indeed did this site's former Trips and Expedition editor (or whatever Tom's title was). Yet, despite being a warm-up for these guys, it's still news. Why? Because standards haven't moved on.

jcm
 tebs 12 Jun 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I guess you're right about the very top level of onsighting by the very best onsight trad climbers (onsight sport seems to be a completely different story), but I'd be interested to know how many people were onsighting E7 15 years ago? I'm impressed by the number of people, not just the folk mentioned in this article and other well known names but a seemingly large number of dark horses who climb at this level. Is this a change in standards or has it always been the same?
 chrishedgehog 13 Jun 2013
In reply to UKC News: Is this news?...It's Cloggy! I welcome almost any articles about that particualar crag. Virtually any activity up there is interesting because its Cloggy.
 Greenbanks 13 Jun 2013
In reply to chrishedgehog:

Couldn't agree more! Given its scale, history and reputation the crag gets relatively little UKC exposure
 Tom Briggs 13 Jun 2013
In reply to Bart Shaw:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously) I'm impressed by the number of people, not just the folk mentioned in this article and other well known names but a seemingly large number of dark horses who climb at this level. Is this a change in standards or has it always been the same?

Amongst my peers there are a fair few people who have on-sighted Welsh E7 or Lakes E6 (same thing) over the past 10-15 years. The difference is most of the keen, younger climbers now have blogs, so you hear about it more.

As for AD, I checked the gear on abseil and led it with no falls, in 2000. It's about F7a climbing, very airy and with tons of RPs, none of which are that inspiring. A superb route, but the equivalent of on-sighting E5 15 years ago?

urbanatelier 02 Jul 2013
What I'm surprised at is the lack of talk about cloggy on here these days. Is adventure climbing out of vogue..? Ok a recent trip up there on a dry weekend I counted 6 parties. Thee were even fewer at Cyrn las.

Seems its all about highballs and soloing el cap at the minute!

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