In reply to Welly Matt:
Was lucky enough to climb with someone who grew up in the Adrspach/Teplice area on his home turf for a few days. Unlike many people's preconceptions, he rarely racked up with any massive monkey fists and instead used much smaller knots or ran it out to the ring bolts.
The principle being that if you're in a crack big enough to need a massive knot then you would have known what you were up against before you left the ground. If you're not up to it, climb something else. Definitely get you crack technique sorted before you go. Interestingly he was more uncomfortable on sections of face climbing, where the ever present sand on handholds and footholds make everything less predictable.
Memorably he scraped out a couple of grams of earth from a tiny crack, untied a 15cm loop of 16mm tape, retied it into a more appropriate shape, seated it carefully and clipped it - all with one hand in about 30 seconds. It wouldn't have been possible to protect that crack without a prodding device. They are essential, seem to remember peoples using shoehorns.
