In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to Rick Graham) The Ex-Engineer knows his stuff and would be my nomination.
He does know his stuff, but he's a bit of a robot
Rgold is practically a climbing forum legend, he really is just always right and is superbly articulate. Take for example his reply to the idiotic 'bolts in the UK, why not?' Thread;
As an American, I have tremendous respect for the UK's ability to control bolting. To quote Royal Robbins, "sport climbing is the child who wants to eat its mother," and the only way to preserve the full spectrum of climbing genres is maintain a very bright line between sport and trad, with trad, at the moment and into the foreseeable future, being in the position of an endangered species.
The presence of risk and the way in which it is confronted lies at the heart of what is now referred to as traditional climbing. Sport climbing has banished risk, at least the forms of risk inherent in trad climbing, in favor of other aspects of climbing, and as the sport climbing mentality spreads, it becomes increasingly difficult to even communicate about the distinctions between the genres, not least because of the irrelevant formulations such as bolts vs. gear.
Consider a trad climb with a risky section. It's been done many times, but now there is a contingent of climbers who want to put a bolt there. Why? Because that part of the climb is risky! More people could enjoy it if there was a bolt, and the community has a "right" to the route. But the risk is exactly why the trad climbers don't want the bolt there. Trad climbers see controlling the risk through the use of gear that may not be bomber and the practice of self-control under pressure as one of the intrinsic challenges of the sport.
Putting in that bolt destroys part of the essence of the climb for the trad climber. People may not like this and may not agree with it, but they should at least understand that there is a genuine and irreconcilable conflict between the preservation of risk and the desire for a risk-free environment.
Saying that risk is intrinsic to trad climbing does not mean that trad climbers want arbitrary risks. Trad climbing isn't a collection of stunts like how many cars you can jump your motorcycle over. The risks of trad climbing are the ones intrinsic to the environment: unknown territory ahead, no cracks for pro, and on granite slabs, no stances to drill from. This is why those who say "just don't clip the bolt" are utterly clueless. The bolt modifies the environment and makes a former intrinsic risk into a stupid stunt.
I grew up in a time when all climbing was trad climbing. I have nothing against sport climbing, and because of the decreased risk I find it increasingly attractive as I get older and more brittle. But I also would have found the sheer pursuit of difficulty in sport climbing compelling when I was young, strong, and less likely to snap on impact. I just wish the the practitioners of the two genres would learn to respect the traditions of each (yes, sport climbing is now old enough to have traditions too) and not try to impose their perspectives and preferences on the other styles of climbing. So far, I think the UK is the only country that seem to have managed to do this, and I would urge you in the strongest possible terms to continue to resist drilled "improvements" to trad climbs.