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Julian Lines recently added a direct finish to Dave Macleod's Holdfast, E9 7a, on Whale Rock in Glen Nevis. In keeping with his experience as a free soloist, Jules soloed the line after working the route extensively on toprope. Upon completing the route, he named the direct finish Hold Fast, Hold True... Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68145
In reply to UKC News:
Respect. Massive respect. I'd rate this as a very significant ascent; it's taken a long time for one of Dave's Scottish testpieces to get a repeat, and to add a (probably harder) direct finish must have been the icing on the cake.
Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!
Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
Respect. Massive respect. I'd rate this as a very significant ascent; it's taken a long time for one of Dave's Scottish testpieces to get a repeat, and to add a (probably harder) direct finish must have been the icing on the cake.
Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!
Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
In reply to Jamie B:
Well done Mr Lines! Makes me feel quite queasy just thinking about it.
It's understandable in the light of the Chris Bevins NIAD interview/triumph because some people reading that clearly didn't get that you can lead solo, aid solo etc. I know in the UK soloing normally means, well, soloing, but I guess Jules is known for his totally mental "free soloing", not for being anti-social and going off to lead solo with a silent partner or modded grigri!
Well done Mr Lines! Makes me feel quite queasy just thinking about it.
> Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
It's understandable in the light of the Chris Bevins NIAD interview/triumph because some people reading that clearly didn't get that you can lead solo, aid solo etc. I know in the UK soloing normally means, well, soloing, but I guess Jules is known for his totally mental "free soloing", not for being anti-social and going off to lead solo with a silent partner or modded grigri!
In reply to UKC News: Good effort from Jules, looks like a quality line.
In reply to Jamie B:
Ruddy Americanisms
Note to editors: the measurement of distance is in metres.
ALC
>
> Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
> Just one point for the UKC editors; "Free-soloing"? Really?
Ruddy Americanisms
Note to editors: the measurement of distance is in metres.
ALC
In reply to UKC News: Looking forward to that book! also I'm surprised the pedants didn't pick you up on: "..finding a good but positive hold.."
In reply to Jamie B:
He rated Walk of Life as 'mid-E9' I think.
Apparently he had a play on Icon of Lust and reported 'definitely E8' though didn't actually lead it.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!
>
>
> Jules is a complete dark-horse legend, and his Icon of Lust on the Shelterstone deserves some attention. I think MacLeod said it might be harder than Walk of Life!
>
He rated Walk of Life as 'mid-E9' I think.
Apparently he had a play on Icon of Lust and reported 'definitely E8' though didn't actually lead it.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Yes, I may have slightly misquoted Dave there, after doing Walk of Life he commented on his blog
"I’m thinking now that Andy Nisbet might well be right when he commented in the Cairngorms guide that Britian’s hardest slab climb might be Icon of Lust"
Don't know if this was before or after he'd actually been on it.
> Apparently he had a play on Icon of Lust and reported 'definitely E8' though didn't actually lead it.
Yes, I may have slightly misquoted Dave there, after doing Walk of Life he commented on his blog
"I’m thinking now that Andy Nisbet might well be right when he commented in the Cairngorms guide that Britian’s hardest slab climb might be Icon of Lust"
Don't know if this was before or after he'd actually been on it.
Can't tell from that report, or maybe i missed it, but did he repeat Holdfast also?
In reply to UKC News:
Amazing effort. I had no idea JL was still active at this sort of level - how old must he be now?
jcm
Amazing effort. I had no idea JL was still active at this sort of level - how old must he be now?
jcm
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Not quite
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=28718
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Wow.
>
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
>
> Wow.
>
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
Not quite
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=28718
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?
*insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*
Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?
*insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*
In reply to Michael Gordon:
I'm pretty sure Rhapsody got a couple of repeats.
> (In reply to UKC News)
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
I'm pretty sure Rhapsody got a couple of repeats.
In reply to UKC News: Pretty epic route to solo.
I'm sure though that there's more than just one E9+ climber in Scotland?
I'm sure though that there's more than just one E9+ climber in Scotland?
In reply to UKC News:
Of course the nature of the first ascent now poses a problem to potential repeat ascents. Will a lead ascent with ropes (assuming there is some sort of gear either in the finish or in the parent route) count? Or will it be seen as inferior?
Of course the nature of the first ascent now poses a problem to potential repeat ascents. Will a lead ascent with ropes (assuming there is some sort of gear either in the finish or in the parent route) count? Or will it be seen as inferior?
In reply to jon:
I would say that it ain't that problematic...
Solo with pre-practice is still a headpoint. Onsight with ropes should still triumph on ethical standpoint. Perhaps even ground up would be better.
> Of course the nature of the first ascent now poses a problem to potential repeat ascents. Will a lead ascent with ropes (assuming there is some sort of gear either in the finish or in the parent route) count? Or will it be seen as inferior?
I would say that it ain't that problematic...
Solo with pre-practice is still a headpoint. Onsight with ropes should still triumph on ethical standpoint. Perhaps even ground up would be better.
In reply to jon:
Judging by the descriptions in the article it doesn't sound like there's any meaningful gear on either the original or the direct, so even with a rope on it sounds like you'd be using a soloists mentality.
One of the most audacious ascents for years, looking forward to the book.
Judging by the descriptions in the article it doesn't sound like there's any meaningful gear on either the original or the direct, so even with a rope on it sounds like you'd be using a soloists mentality.
One of the most audacious ascents for years, looking forward to the book.
In reply to Cameron94:
There are two now, although I'm sure that others are capable.
I'd love to see some more of MacLeod's E9/10s getting some southern attention too, it would be interesting to see how they stack up against big numbers in England/Wales.
> I'm sure that there's more than just one E9+ climber in Scotland?
There are two now, although I'm sure that others are capable.
I'd love to see some more of MacLeod's E9/10s getting some southern attention too, it would be interesting to see how they stack up against big numbers in England/Wales.
In reply to Jamie B: Simon Nadin lives in Scotland are you sure he hasn't climbed E9?
In reply to Steve Perry:
Don't think so, but I could be wrong. I must admit I'd forgotten about his relocation.
Don't think so, but I could be wrong. I must admit I'd forgotten about his relocation.
In reply to UKC News:
Very inspiring. Well done.
I didn't know about the book until now but I'm very keen to get my hands on a copy.
Very inspiring. Well done.
I didn't know about the book until now but I'm very keen to get my hands on a copy.
In reply to Andrew Barker:
He wrote a piece for Climb magazine a few months ago, some of it was quoted from the book, if that's anything to go by, Tears of the Dawn will be brilliant!
Oh, and good effort on the climbing too!
He wrote a piece for Climb magazine a few months ago, some of it was quoted from the book, if that's anything to go by, Tears of the Dawn will be brilliant!
Oh, and good effort on the climbing too!
In reply to UKC News: Well done Jules
I've had a sneaky preview of a couple of the chapters of Julian's book and recommend everyone get a copy, it's a superb read!
I've had a sneaky preview of a couple of the chapters of Julian's book and recommend everyone get a copy, it's a superb read!
In reply to Sonya Mc: I can't wait to read it, soloing E9/E10 is just incredible.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Or, in the last few weeks:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68100
The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Wow.
>
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
>
> Wow.
>
> The first time anyone other than MacLeod has climbed E9+ in Scotland!
> [...]
>> Not quite
>Or, in the last few weeks:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68100
The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.
In reply to UKC News:
amazing. palms sweating just reading that! The book will be a must have.
respect to JL
amazing. palms sweating just reading that! The book will be a must have.
respect to JL
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
In his prime obv. JCM.
41,42 maybe...?
I saw him talk at Edinburgh Uni one night - he seemed to not enjoy it, sipping nervously from a hipflask though-out.
On the otherhand I thought it was great; self-effacing, engaging and funny. Nice Pink Floyd sound-track too.
Great effort, looking forward to book....
Bruce
In his prime obv. JCM.
41,42 maybe...?
I saw him talk at Edinburgh Uni one night - he seemed to not enjoy it, sipping nervously from a hipflask though-out.
On the otherhand I thought it was great; self-effacing, engaging and funny. Nice Pink Floyd sound-track too.
Great effort, looking forward to book....
Bruce
In reply to Adam Long:
yes I really don't know how I managed to forget about Rhapsody and Long Hope.
Regardless, the first repeat of a MacLeod E9 is quite an event!
yes I really don't know how I managed to forget about Rhapsody and Long Hope.
Regardless, the first repeat of a MacLeod E9 is quite an event!
In reply to Jamie B:
Yes obviously anything we might say can fairly be classed as armchair speculation!
It's not often though that using side runners wouldn't alter the grade of something.
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
>
> Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?
>
> *insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*
>
> Did that warrant E9 with the "baby-bouncer" side-runner arrangement?
>
> *insert enormous unwinnable grade argument here*
Yes obviously anything we might say can fairly be classed as armchair speculation!
It's not often though that using side runners wouldn't alter the grade of something.
In reply to Michael Gordon: Dave B did "die by the drop E10" last year, he used an obvious side runner. He suggested E8.
In reply to UKC News:
Incredible! Well done Jules...
Incredible! Well done Jules...
In reply to UKC News: I think origin of the species is one of the most spectacular photo's of Jules I've ever seen, and of a route on granite in Scotland, just seems so impressive and the rock is immaculate. Good man!
In reply to simon_D:
Even better than the one in Dave Cuthbertson'e 2001 calendar (June) of him on Realm of the Senses on the Shelter Stone? Probably the best rock climbing photo I've ever seen (much better than the one taken at the same time on p115 of the guidebook).
> (In reply to UKC News) I think origin of the species is one of the most spectacular photo's of Jules I've ever seen, and of a route on granite in Scotland.
Even better than the one in Dave Cuthbertson'e 2001 calendar (June) of him on Realm of the Senses on the Shelter Stone? Probably the best rock climbing photo I've ever seen (much better than the one taken at the same time on p115 of the guidebook).
In reply to UKC News:
Very cool.
Among stacks of inspiring low-publicity first ascents of his, one that jumped out at me recently looking through an SMC journal was an E7 arete at Clean Cut near Stoer, 'Scotland's answer to Master's Edge', I wonder if that's had any repeats.
Very cool.
Among stacks of inspiring low-publicity first ascents of his, one that jumped out at me recently looking through an SMC journal was an E7 arete at Clean Cut near Stoer, 'Scotland's answer to Master's Edge', I wonder if that's had any repeats.
In reply to UKC News: nice one pal.how do you fit those bollocks in them pants
In reply to Adam Long:
What route's that?
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
>
>
> The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.
>
>
> The same pair put up a route on Eigg 11 years ago which in all likelihood is E9.
What route's that?
In reply to Jamie B:
I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.
I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.
In reply to Hay:
Perhaps, without getting into a "who's the bestest" or "he's a bit of a fanny because he top roped it first" spat I'd point out that Jules has been soloing hard stuff for years, it's what he does and I guess his head is very much adjusted to taking on that sort of thing.
I remember hearing about some fa's he did in the gorms a few years ago in Coire Sputan Dearg , E4s and an E5 IIRC. All solo and of course miles from anywhere or anyone else for that matter. It was pointed out to me that if he'd fallen off he'd have died anyway so the lack of other people around didn't make much difference...
> (In reply to Jamie B)
> I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
> Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.
> I guess logistics and weather have a lot to do with the lack of headpointing of routes up here, especially the mountain routes.
> Also some of the strongest just don't seem to be psyched for it either; Niall, Tony S, McGeek, Iain Small. Pretty sure they could knock out an E9 between them with enough prepractise.
Perhaps, without getting into a "who's the bestest" or "he's a bit of a fanny because he top roped it first" spat I'd point out that Jules has been soloing hard stuff for years, it's what he does and I guess his head is very much adjusted to taking on that sort of thing.
I remember hearing about some fa's he did in the gorms a few years ago in Coire Sputan Dearg , E4s and an E5 IIRC. All solo and of course miles from anywhere or anyone else for that matter. It was pointed out to me that if he'd fallen off he'd have died anyway so the lack of other people around didn't make much difference...
In reply to Andy Moles: Richie Betts headpointed that arete but then found out he'd climbed the top section on the other side to Jules.
http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=89964255@N00&q=clean%20cut
Heck of a line!
http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=89964255@N00&q=clean%20cut
Heck of a line!
In reply to gaz.marshall:
Really cool little zawn that and all about five minutes from the campsite. Wish I was good enough! Outstanding line.
Really cool little zawn that and all about five minutes from the campsite. Wish I was good enough! Outstanding line.
In reply to Removed User:
I don't think there is even a hint of a spat in this thread.
Looks like universal awe for an amazing effort combined with some musing about the number of Scottish-based climbers who are climbing E9.
If you though that my post hinted otherwise then it must read differently to what I intended.
I don't think there is even a hint of a spat in this thread.
Looks like universal awe for an amazing effort combined with some musing about the number of Scottish-based climbers who are climbing E9.
If you though that my post hinted otherwise then it must read differently to what I intended.
In reply to gaz.marshall:
I'd love to climb that arete on any side!
> (In reply to Andy Moles) Richie Betts headpointed that arete but then found out he'd climbed the top section on the other side to Jules.
I'd love to climb that arete on any side!
In reply to UKC News:
Fantastic! I think I saw him shunting the route earlier in the year. Superb effort and at what a grade...
I daresay this won't be repeated anytime soon.
Fantastic! I think I saw him shunting the route earlier in the year. Superb effort and at what a grade...
I daresay this won't be repeated anytime soon.
In reply to UKC News: Does Julian Lines actually exist or is this some massive wind-up?
In reply to Flashman:
I found this comment funny, not exactly sure why. What made you ask this?
> (In reply to UKC News) Does Julian Lines actually exist or is this some massive wind-up?
I found this comment funny, not exactly sure why. What made you ask this?
In reply to Flashman:
Hahah class comment !!
So Jules is finally getting the credit he deserves -
The most nicest ,modest and big balled man who clearly is a credit to the world of climbing!
It's been a bit of a long standing project for the judge and it nearly wasn't to be, I was kinda praying he wasn't going to solo it and when he injured himself I secretly breathed a sigh of releaf -
But he prevailed as he usually does and now it's time to buy his book and read all about this"national man of mystery"
Well done judge !! Beers on you
Btw it is E10 !!
Hahah class comment !!
So Jules is finally getting the credit he deserves -
The most nicest ,modest and big balled man who clearly is a credit to the world of climbing!
It's been a bit of a long standing project for the judge and it nearly wasn't to be, I was kinda praying he wasn't going to solo it and when he injured himself I secretly breathed a sigh of releaf -
But he prevailed as he usually does and now it's time to buy his book and read all about this"national man of mystery"
Well done judge !! Beers on you
Btw it is E10 !!
In reply to justin c:
So THAT's who Judge Jules is named after! I always assumed it was some comic-book figure. Live and learn.....
jcm
So THAT's who Judge Jules is named after! I always assumed it was some comic-book figure. Live and learn.....
jcm
In reply to justin c: Innit Critch! Legend.
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