UKC

I'm working in Bolivia till the 09/08. I'm then free till the 4th of October and I'm intending to explore Bolivia and / or Peru, taking in as many climbing objectives as possible. At the minute I have no confirmed partner and I'm therefore especially interested in easier alpine objectives, in particular routes with relatively closed glaciers. I'm happy to solo ice up to scottish 4ish and in the write conditions will look at TD alpine climbs, I'm also especially interested in routes on 6000m peaks.

I'm interested in everything related to the logistics of exploring and climbing in these countries along with any suggestions of objectives (even locations of unclimbed peaks). Also if there are any places where your likely to pick up a partner!

Thanks in advance for the advice.

In reply to Exodus:

Sounds like you need John Biggar's guide to the climbing in the Andes:

http://www.andes.org.uk

In reply to Exodus: Cheers Andy. It is a good guide and I do have it. Have you been?

In reply to Exodus:

I'm recently back from a trip to Peru with John. I suggest you get in touch with him for info, he will be able to point you in the right direction and possibly help with logistics. He's on holiday at the moment though, so you won't get an immediate response.

In reply to Exodus:

Lots of peaks there, you might want to be a bit more specific and narrow down your areas for more precise beta.

From what I've climbed there?
Sajama and Parinacota are good for solos and they're high, easy and have no glaciers.
Illampu is a nice peak if you want something a bit steeper, but it has some glaciers. They would have been OK for a soloist when I was there but it was ages ago so could be different now.
Pequeno Alpamayo normal route has negligble crevasses from memory.
LaPaz was OK to find partners in city hostels, but not great, though it's over a decade since I was there.

Ausangate is beautiful area and a decent climb but has a few, probably solo-able, crevasses down in the icefall (June 2011). I've not been to Huaraz, but it's probably better to find partners there for the Blanca than finding partners in Cusco for Ausangate or other Vilcanota peaks.

In reply to Exodus: Thanks. I'm planning a few weeks in Bolivia, probably mainly climbing some summits in the Cordillera Real, followed by a month or so in the Blanca. The climbing there looks unbelievable, there's no way I can be so close and not go!!

vimeo.com/29287931

In reply to Exodus:

The Cordillera Real will keep you going for a few weeks alright! Here's an account of out visit in 1972:

http://www.windmillweb.info/climbing/CordilleraReal/index.htm

Have you seen "Bolivia: A Climbing" Guide by Yossi Brain?

The climbing season is July - August. Lovely place.

In reply to Exodus:

Hi Exodus

I will be in La Paz for climbing in September and I am looking for a partner to make easy and moderate routes, very similar that you thinking to do.
You have found anyone? Contact me here or fb

Thanks for the attention

In reply to Exodus: I am in the Real 10-21/ 08 and then the Blanca till the 29/09. Still know confirmed partner, so let me know if zour keen. Thanks

In reply to Exodus: Ok Exodus, our times doesn´t match. But if you come back to Bolivia after 28-09 try to contact me. In coordillera blanca is more easy to find partner, go to Café Andino. It´s the place to find climbers in the city and have a notice partner board. good climb!