UKC

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (327) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=554151

Ali - Poor week ali better this week?
Biscuit - Feeling better?
Jammingdodger - Hows the cat? ... Nice mileage
AJM - how was cornwall?
Eagle River - Thanks for doing stats
mbh - Lots of mileage it will all pay off at the roseland trial
Stevemarkperry - Thursday sounds like a good work out. NIce lil bit jealous
Needkraken - good effort at malham
Si dH - cant promise anything for malham yet can confirm the week before.
grubes - fat f*ck try harder!
Mattrm - nice busy week tick anything new at ogmore?
Exile - congrats on the wife wanting to go climbing excuse to get out more
Nick Russell - nice set up
NMN - well done on the VS's
Curious Yellow - good effort at portland
Joughton - good luck on statement (I have heard the route is not all that good just very famous)
Jimmykay - nice one on elite now get on something harder!
IainRUK - were legs feeling better with less miles this week?
Nomics4sale - not like you failing to get a 6c in a session. maybe need a rest week to freshen the body?
Porkpiegirl - good progress on your seige
luke owens - nice week luke. good progress all over
Maria85 - good effort getting on E1's thats half the battle with trad
C Chestwig - congrats on the secret YYFY. and the 8a and then the 8b this week!
Sankey - nice busy week.
Useful - awesome effort on the E1 will get the next one!

So this is the last time I am doing stats for a while. Sorry for the spelling and grammatical errors. Some one said they would take on FC for july but I cant remember who. I am doing it in August but definately cant do it in september.

In reply to grubes:


All a bit "meh" to be honest grubes. Got one very good route done, but that's not much to show for 4 days there. And my partner decided they wanted to head home a day early so I'm still not sure what I'm doing today either.

Monday - Avon. Bunch of stuff to warm up. Seconded Low Profile (E5 with a bunch of in situ pegs, maybe 7a-ish hard to say really) with a rest - slapped up into the break by the last peg but didn't hit a good bit and didn't have enough left to get the other hand up into the best place. Would like to go back and try and lead this - might try and retain some of the lead adventure by trying it quasi-ground up some point soon rather than going for a more clinical headpoint. Got on Them (hard E3) again, worked out where to go this time but just couldn't quite commit to the last hard move before the peg with the runner cluster below my feet. Still, I've reduced it from "I've absolutely no idea how to do this at any grade" to "I just need to commit a bit more", so maybe third time lucky? Down climbed again so a technical onsight is still up for grabs.

Wednesday - Blackchurch. My suggestion of Sharpnose didn't hold much weight, deemed too likely to be stressful. So we ended up at Blackchurch, I seconded Sacre Coeur, but with no real desire to do Jamaican Dub and my main ambition of The Archtempter also deemed too stressful I basically ended up at a crag where there was nothing I wanted to do. Chuffed for my partner who did Sacre Coeur as her second ever E2, but in terms of leading stuff something of a flop.

Thursday - Bosigran. Seconded Thin Wall Special p1 and finished up doorpost to start. Got up to the pedestal stance on the coal face and started up the main pitch of The Ghost (E3 spacewalk across the roofs) which has been a key ambition for a long while, but my partner suddenly decided her head wasn't in the game so I came down. Got on Raven Wall (E3) instead, took a while, greasy fight, but got it in the end. E3 number 9 of the year. Excellent route.

Friday - sea fog galore. Went to Sennen. All 3 of my a,bit ions there were greasy or soaked. Escaped out.

Saturday - more sea fog. Drove back up to Haytor. Seconded some stuff, led Outward Bound a fun roof HVS, then tried Interrogation the classic E3 and got totally shut down, took me ages to work out how to get to the peg and then just couldn't fathom how to pass it. Cue several abseils with ropes blowing horizontal in the near gale blowing across the top of the crag before I was able to get down the right line to retrieve the gear.

Sunday - ???

Still feeling like I'm eating too many cakes and not doing enough hard moves on these trad trips which will be doing my sport climbing no good whatsoever. Need to develop motivation for heading out bouldering and shunting on my own really so I can pack in more relevant training... But I just find that a struggle motivationally.

Must try harder...

In reply to AJM:

I had a couple of goes on this in the spring. Big falls both times... I can confirm that the gear is good! It feels really hard, but I think I have some idea of where to go now.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Bombproof yeah. Got up to the sort of pockety type hold just need to decide whether to go straight up towards holds by the peg of whether to press left into the groove first.

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes - that looked like a quality burger !

Well the lurgy wiped me out this week. Climbed every day Mon - Thur up to 6b but very hard work with being ill and away from home.

I made a valiant recovery yesterday but then a broken car has ruined today ( radiator pipe popped off whilst on motorway = wet road and V hot engine )

M - Work & lurgy
T - Work & lurgy
W - Work & lurgy
T - Work but not so much lurgy
F - Home again and no lurgy
S - Climbing @ Loja
S - May go on board later if i stop being grumpy about the car.

Climbing was good. I was nowhere near 100% well and was thinking of just climbing on Sun and resting Sat but my mate was keen so i went to see how it would go.

Ended up climbing with a Spanish superwad. We did 2 'easy' warm ups and i flashed them both. Pleased to later find out they were both 7a. Very little beta.

I then had a go on a new route that has been squeezed in between Hasta Luega Luca and Dos Itanos. It uses tufas from both and is a great route ( better than the originals imo ) until the end when you're not allowed to use an easily reachable pocket on HLL that would make the crux much easier. I argued that was a stupid rule and how did we know that such a stupid eliminate was true anyway. I was then pointed in the direction of the guy who bolted it who was in our group - oops !

Anyway, i had 2 goes on top rope and i reckon i'll be able to do the 7b version ( with pocket ) next time. The 7b+ hard crux may take some time.

I was wasted then, not pumped just no energy from being ill i think, so i called it a day.

Good progress there. 7a's are feeling straightforward ( 1x6c+/7a onsight, 2x7a flashes and a 7a+ 2nd go last 2 times out ) and i realistically feel that 7b will go next time.

Mrs Biscuit is off back to the UK on Wednesday for 2 weeks so it'll be back to the training board. I need to get the car fixed too ( or possibly buy a new one ) so getting out will be very unlikely for a while.

Going to try running again when i feel 100% but cycling to the garage/shops will probable keep me ticking over until the car is fixed - it's 15km each way.

In reply to grubes:


I will be bored stuck indoors for the next couple of weeks so can take the next 2 weeks if that helps ?

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes, nice one getting the Squamish accommodation booked! When are you heading out there? I have a friend who spent quite a lot of time there and says it was awesome!

I've had a bit of an up-and-down week really, ending on an extended down...

M: 3 mile run, climbing at Shorn Cliff.. Got 5 good routes in (4xE1,1xE2), which I think is pretty good going for an evening! This is the sort of consolidation I was talking about last week.
T: 3 mile run, climbing at Portishead. Not so good, had a bit of an epic on Highway One. I need to go back to it with a better attitude.
W: 3 mile run, climbing at Cheddar. Did Space Tourist, which is well worthwhile and I got to look up at the Paradise routes. Then afterwards still had time to have a quick go at Shakin' Like a Leaf. I'm glad I did, it felt easy and was great fun. A third 7a redpoint!
T: Came down with a cold which has taken me out for the rest of the week. Some very strong beer and a late night in London on Friday probably haven't aided the recovery, but I'm feeling somewhat better now. Maybe I'll have a quick hang on the fingerboard later.

Good points - two good evenings on the rock, running going ok. Bad points - got ill. I guess there's not much I could have done about that though.

Short term (~1 month) - training for Frankenjura
* Find opportunities to go sport climbing
* Keep up the finger strength with at least one fingerboard session/week
* Start running training (take 3)
Medium term (this season)
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (especially those a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Longer term (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: Longer races, start some fell running

In reply to grubes: Cheers grubes

Had a totally useless week, to follow on from last week's end of week failures... Had really bad hayfever at the start of the week, which knocked a couple of days. Felt really tired and headachey since and have completely and utterly lost my mojo. No enthusiasm to do anything, feeling guilty about that lack of enthusiasm. Taking a rest day today and can barely keep my eyes open despite getting 11 hours sleep last night. To top it off, I've somehow hurt my back, no idea how, but it siezes up when I bend forwards. Very worried about the marathon next Sunday now, scared my back's not going to have fixed itself or that my energy levels won't have managed to drag themselves back from the depths. I haven't run as much as I'd wanted to either, but less worried about that as I seem to be ok pulling longish distances out of the bag after doing not much from past experiences.

M: Bike commute. 20 min lunchtime run.
T: Bike commute one way only. Caley crags - led Boot Crack (VS 4b offwidth). Seconded Lad's Corner (VS 4c) & Pedestal Wall (S 4a). Got midged.
W: Lunchtime trail run, 4 km, 75m, 20mins.
Giggleswick South. Fell off Chip off the Old Block (6a+) quite a few times before giving up. Led It's Alright Mama (6a in the book, 6a+ on here, certainly felt 6a+) which was a real fight but got it.. just! Somehow fell off The Gift (6a). Got midged again.
T: Bike commute.
F: Bike commute. Lunchtime run, 6km, 100m, 31mins. Only 30secs off my best time and felt easy. One positive of the week anyway.
S: Felt guilty at not doing anything so tried to go climbing. Back started hurting. Downclimbed from, then fell off, the crux of a VS 5a. Realised I don't like limestone that much afterall. Back hurt more. Sulked and retreated.
S: Rest day. My head's pounding and I can't move my back

Only objective for this week: rest up, eat well and try to fix my back... and not freak out about the race...

In reply to grubes:
Thanks Grubes. Not the best of weeks for me this week. Feeling some sympathy with Biscuit as have also had the lurgy...

Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 1 E2, 4 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100

Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent.

M: went to Hen Cloud after work. Did Encouragement (E1, led second pitch) and Chicken (E1). Had been planning on trying with Comedian or the other E3 just right of it - but Comedian looked like a bulging offwidth crux and the other looked too run-out on steep ground, so decided against the,. The E1s were good but it was a late night and I didnt get enough sleep.
T: planning an evening at Raven Tor to finish Tin Of, but started feelign ill and ended up just lying on the sofa
W: still ill
T: nothing but felt mostly better at least
F: work bbq and beer, not enough sleep
S: nothing, parents visiting. Had a good walk through all the dales along the wye, checked out all the crags - looking good and dry almost everywhere now.
S: Raven Tor. Tried Tin Off again 3 times. Complete fail. Pretty pissed at this, not sure if I'm just too weak or whether its a combination of lack of sleep and hangover from cold earlier in the week. Just cant get through the crux when Ive climbed from the ground, and dont feel 100% confident in the top wall either. Think Im going to give up on Raven Tor for a while and go back to something better! Also got an aching elbow which doesnt bode well, and a dodgy index finger - this happened a couple of weeks ago but I didnt worry too much as it onl hurts on very specific holds, rather than whenever Im pulling hard. However Im concerned it hasnt got better this week with several days' rest.

Diet also not gone quite so well this week due to illness and work night out. Think IVe just about maintained acceptability though.

The next week's climbing / training will be dependent on level of motivation to train vs level of concern about injuries. Fingers crossed.

In reply to AJM:
How much longer are you full time climbing for?

In reply to grubes:

Yep, really good - she's always been keen, (we sadly met at the wall!) but has turned to MTBing since having kids.

Anyway...

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

Working a lot this week so focus was on keeping fit.

Weeks training:

M: Evening: 45min road run
T: Morning. 1hr PE traverses at wall & core
W: Evening. 45min continual climbing on 6b+ traverse. Good, but getting easy, endurance session
T: Rest
F: 1hr continual traversing on 7a traverse. Best session on this by a long way this year. Certainly have the endurance foe E3 / 7a.
S: 45min fell run sneaked in while my youngest was at a birthday party.
S: 2hr climbing. Played on 'A vision of things gone wild' - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=13077 - which locally is thought to be 7b+ now. Was hoping it would just be a smallish step up after Ivy League next door to it, but it felt a quantum leap. If anybody has got some beta for the moves between the third and fourth bolts I'd be keen to hear it! I think I've got to the stage in sports climbing and bouldering, (trying to get a V7 a couple of weeks ago,) where I'd benefit from loosing that 7 - 14 lbs I've been procrastinating about for the last 12 months or so!

So, good week considering the amount of work I've had on. Aim for the coming week it to try to climb harder, (given the weather plays ball!) Either a short session RP of a 7a or try to onsight an E3. We'll see!

In reply to Si dH:

Dunno. Aiming to be back from road trip end of next summer but would prefer to get another few months Work in before then, another 3 or 6 month contract before Christmas. That's in the hands of the gods though really.

In reply to AJM:
Ah ok, fair enough. I wasnt sure if you already had something lined up later this summer/autumn. Was just wondering from the point of view of when you might be keen for any trips anywhere eg the odd weekend. Depending on how holidays work out I might have a day or two spare at some point. Also wanting to do a week trad trip in August although supposed ot be climbign with Neil if his work is ok.
Wouldnt get too down about that week in Cornwall btw, Raven Wall is a v good tick!

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Grubes. Yep Thursday was awesome and I think it was the catalyst for my cold pouncing on me. Crowd was great to the Misfits stuff.

Feeling rotten this week with a nasty cough so other than a little bit of very easy cycling, I've not trained at all. Seems to be finally clearing up today (Sunday) and the plus side is that I have had chance to get plenty of work done.


Goals:

Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before 23rd June: Currently 146
Re-strengthen core and upper body
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding


This Week:

M: Strength session (ill, so not 100% given)
T: 10km mountain bike ride (ill so just easy low heart rate)
W: 20km mountain bike ride (commute through woodland singletrack) (ill so just easy low heart rate)
T: Ill
F: Ill
S: Ill
S: Ill, finally starting to clear this cough


Core Session: Leg Lifts 3x12 (1 min rest). Banana Boats 3x12 (1 min rest). Swimming 3x1 min. Superman 3x1 min. L Plank 3x30 secs. R Plank 3x30 secs. F Plank 3x30 secs.
Upper Body Session: Push Ups 4x12 (1 min rest). Pull Ups 4x8 (1 min rest). Reverse Wrist Curls 4x12 (1 min rest). Chair Dips 4x12 (1 min rest).

In reply to Si dH:

If I'm still unemployed at the time I'm probably in France the last week of August for family stuff, back in Loup in September and then maybe doing some easy stuff with Ali start of October once she has handed in.

I've got a few weekends of weddings coming up then the last few in July and the first two in August free. And obviously potential for unlimited midweek stuff. Let's keep in touch.

Yeah raven wall was cool. Got myself remotivated again and am currently sitting under Ames Low. Matched or slightly improved on best effort from September but struggling to remember/rework a sequence for the last few moves...

In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes. I hope so.

M: 9.3 m road, hilly
T: 5 m road, hilly
W: 7.1 m coast path and woodland trails.
F: 10.7 m, road and trail, in pea soup mist, one of those runs that goes up, up , up, then down, down, down again.
Sa: 10.1 m, then 2 k swimming.
Su: 12.9 m road, hilly, listening to the Rolling Stones bacause of last night, and that night in 1982 when I saw them at Wembley with my mum(who was younger then than I am now). I don't normally listen to music when I run, and found that it gets in the way. I like hearing my breathing and pounding, I realise.

So, 55 miles, 1200 m ascent and some swimming. A bit of a slog, what with work n'all, and nothing terribly fast, barring the odd spurt here and there, but that is 240 miles running for the month.

In reply to grubes:

Thanks Luke.

Goals: Biological Need, Sticky Wicket, 50 for 5, the ashes.

Tues: Sneaky day off to go to Kilnsey. Got two moves higher than previous sessions on Biological Need and got to the crux every attempt. It feels close now, hopefully not more than 2 more sessions.

Thurs: Rain ruined CYL plans so went to rockover and spent most of the evening on the circuit board. Really good continuous, non-cruxy routes have been set on there so had a really good session. was battered for two days afterwards.

I've added those specific routes into my goals because they're all on the same bit of rock at kilnsey and are a 7b, hard 7b+ and 7c+ which should serve as a suitable apprenticeship for Kilnsey once I've got Biological need out of the way. This weekend just gone and the next one are non-climbing ones so going to try and sneak as much outdoor evening sessions as I can in between.

In reply to grubes: thanks I had lots of fun!

I'm in Scotland for the week with only my tablet so I'll do a double update next week (as long as I don't kill family members on the first time I've been away with them for about 8 years!)

Keep crushing everyone!

In reply to grubes: Thanks grubes for doing Fit Club. Unfortunately another bad week in so many ways! Been ill/trying to recover all week - not sure if just general exhaustion/stress but not been feeling myself at all, and ongoing stomach ache hasn't been helping.

M - staggered home in a vague run attempt (8.5 miles, some hideously long time). Wanted to give up a million times, stomach in knots the whole way, got back and collapsed knackered!
T - run into work (attempt) - didn't eat anything before and hadn't eaten much night before so felt very weak and wobbly but stomach didn't hurt so much. Made it to Bermondsey tube then gave up, so about 4.5 miles perhaps
W - Biscuit Factory - total space cadet as CY can verify! Tried some greens, but was getting out of breath by the top moves. Left after not very long but was nice to be down the wall - felt like home
T - nothing, though nice relaxing evening and stomach ache gone away - yay! Scoffed dominos pizza...
F - nothing, but slept 10hrs (big yay)
S - BMF - dropped down to blue group as still not feeling quite right. Felt awful but somehow got through. fitness and lower abs seem to have disappeared. Housemate/landlord told me I'm being chucked out so have to find somewhere new to live on top of everything else. Stomach ache returned.
S - planned climbing weekend had been reduced to a day which got further reduced to a few hours at Harrison's which felt depressingly like an outdoor climbing wall. Did a couple of 5b/cs but not the climbing fix I desperately need at the moment.

Next weekend was going to be a definite weekend away, but I think I'm going to have to cancel that now for stupid house hunting. Given my recent pathetic posts may also take a break from fit club for a bit as a) I'm not getting much done, and b) I don't want to make everyone else gloomy with my depressing posts!

However its really uplifting and inspiring to see what everyone else has been doing - go team!

In reply to grubes:

Yeah pretty much, hamstring still slightly stiff.. worrying a tad..

m: 17.5 mile road run 6:44 pace..
t: 4.5 mile road run at 6:20 pace
w: 12.5 mile trail run at 6:17 pace
t: track.. 8.5 miles total, drills and 3 x 2km reps.. @ 3:15 km pace
f: lunch: 6.5 mile trail run 6:30 pace. pm: 5 mile trail run
s: am: 7.8 mile trail run. pm: 10 mile hike up wurmberg
s: am: 6.1 mile trail run. pm: 10 mile hike up Brocken

Nice week.. 64 miles or so.. lots of quality good miles so happy enough.. now down to 40% load this week..

In reply to biscuit:
The burger was an epic monstrosity of meaty goodness.

On a toasted ciabatta
Smoked brisket
Pulled pork
Smoked cheese
10oz home made beefburger
More smoked cheese
Crispy bacon
And onion rings!!
Best(/worst) birthday meal ever

In reply to grubes: But could you fit it all in your mouth?!

In reply to Eagle River:

Are you planning on getting any midweek trips in this week? Debating a midweek mission...

In reply to grubes:
STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish
E3/4
Plan a font trip - off over new years but think my second one will be postponed for a kaly trip

Goals for this week
Trad - did 1 route so bit of a fail

M: buckstones. Did a 6A and a ss to it at roughly 6A+ I also did a problem third go after dropping the top out on flash graded 7A I have requested it gets down graded to 6B
T:rest
W: Pule lead onsight a hs nails! So lumpy and hard to read.
Bouldered about after this
T: rest
F: rest
S: rest
S: pen trwyn. Dutchman's zawn. Thanks to Pete h who sent me the topo to this place. Top roped 2x6c+
Dutchman zawn is a small sawn sort of below pillbox. An in to a hanging belay above the sea. Atmospheric to say the least. Rope cluster f*cks. Epically tight knots. Crashing waves. Tourist boats waving fantastic day out. Even if I did not get any ticks.

Next week's goals:
Do some thing epic
Sort out head.
Work on endurance

Dutchman zawn is so epic. but don't go there unless you are comfortable on sighting the grade.
There are three routes 7a 6c+ and 6c+ none are easy for the grade (nails) there is also a great looking E3. Take treated ropes

In reply to Ali:
hmm not really (pics on Facebook)

In reply to grubes:

Cheers grubes,

Been a few weeks off for me. Work has been hectic (Proper hectic) and basically I did next to no climbing or training, so lost enthusiasm for posting.
I have gone to cornwall and tremadog however. Mostly E1's and E2's (Mercury Direct as the finest effort). Managed everything OS so not lost too much in the arms/head.

I hope work hectic will start to ease and so can start to contribute again.

This week aims: FB once, indoors once, jog once.

Upcoming: Wye weekend anticipated (folk can join me if they wish?), Hoy in August and Lundy in September. So some good trad adventure to be had.

Cheers! Kev.


Ali: How was SS? 6bs?

AJM: Your making me blush with Them. I must have lucked in properly. It will go for you, keep plugging away. I assume its the middle traverse upto the peg just after the good gear slot on the right which is getting you?
Shame about Cornwall. Would have loved to get a pitch or two in with your good self again. My outside ambition is all there!

In reply to Kevster:

First time up I couldn't see any chalk and I was trying to go straight left with hands level with the holds the gear goes in. Desperate and super blind.

This time I went up and then left a bit from the gear cluster above the twin pegs but ran out of commitment for the last hard move or so.

Spent too much time on the ramp really those routes have kind of got stuck in my head - Them and Arms Race as the next big ones to do its been a bit like a pressure ratcheting in my head.

Keen to get on some other stuff like Peryl maybe soon.

In reply to grubes: hello all

this week:

daily cardio on bike (good sessions) and core.. no weights
4 sessions at malham on the project.. sunday, tues, thurs and fri.

Plan to go tonight after camping with sarah's family but mega anemic with period of hell fire(sorry about the detail bit it doesn't half wash me out every few months... i look like casper i'm that pale)

so, as i reported last week sunday's session went very well as managed to clib from the ground up to one move off the rest ledge. i couldn't match this on any of my attempts on tues or thursday this week and i tried really f*cking hard. i did however sort my plan out for the top wall and made improvements in how efficiently i was climbing the bottom section. consistently climbing the crux on top rope and lead without many hassles (although sometimes a bit of hesitation on a rock over move that just feels odd to do)

on friday i forced myself to go back, was tired and haven't done two days in a row on my project for about 4 weeks (i think) as it was feeling counter productive. i decided just to top rope for fitness, after two goes of trying to climb from the ground to the ledge (about 20m of the 25m route) i decided to try something different.

the punishment approach... got sarah to lower me back down to the ground every time i fell off when trying to link the bulge moves after the crux overlap (just over half way height).. after doing this three times (without rest.. which seems a daft plan) i managed to do it... i rested at the bulge for a moment.. enough to shake out each arm twice and climbed up to the rest ledge. repeated this after a short rest and climbed the head wall of new dawn to finish off but to keep the pump going.

so further progress this week... a position that i found very tiring has become a rest, i still need a snug rope over the last bulge.. so that is going to have to improve this week.

no idea how much longer it will take but i am still mega keen, not bored and don't hate the route yet..

PPPG- periody pork pie girl

In reply to AJM:


This, to be fair, applies,to other FC folk as well. Can do sometime between tomorrow afternoon and Wednesday night, have to be home Thursday though.

In reply to AJM:

Busy week at work so can't take any time off in the day unfortunately.

In reply to Eagle River:

Ok cool no worries.

In reply to Ali:

He tried, it was funny to watch! Wish I'd got a picture of that bit... unfortunately I was too busy stuffing my face!

In reply to grubes: I know I don't report anymore but you said to Matt the other week grubes about E1 - just get the grade, don't worry about it being something special, or words to that effect,
I've watched Doctor U and maria just get on it too lately, so I pottered off to Wales and bagged my first E1 today. A right soft touch at Holyhead and I'm more revved about seconding Pull my Daisy on Rainbow Slab yesterday and not making a fool of myself to be honest.
I just wanted to say thanks tho, really, because I still glean loads of psyche from this thread - it's bloody brilliant and a real motivator. Everyone's so positive usually and it really rubs off. Thanks.

Kelvin

In reply to mrchewy:

Nice one Kelvin!

Which one was it? Think the only e1 on Holyhead mountain I've done was breaking the barrier, wasn't that was it?

In reply to grubes:

I think it was me who said I could do July.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain

Weight - 11st 12lbs (1lbs gain)

M - Rest
T - 5k run
W - 1.5h Yoga
T - 45 mins core/yoga
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Trad on Gower

An ok week I guess. Went tradding today. Was hoping that I'd get a couple of VSes in. However my mate tried one and failed. I tried one and failed. Which was a bit of an arse. So we top roped my route. Ended up being a good route and I was annoyed that I couldn't commit to the crux. It was hard and the handholds were pretty awful. But I did manage it on top rope, so it wasn't like I couldn't do it. Basically it's lack of routes and lack of leading confidence. I'm going on a club trip to Pembroke next weekend. Which will be a bit of a git I reckon as I'll spend most of the weekend leading so it'll be a bit of a bust. i.e. I'll spend the weekend climbing at Saddle Head. Which isn't awful, but I've done quite a few of the routes there.

Goals:

3 core/yoga - 2 sessions
1 good climb (ideally a days trad) - yes
1 run (10k) - 5k
proper diet - getting better
Fingerboard session - done!
Same for next week

In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy! It wasn't - did look at that after but stupidly got on some crackline HVS instead and failed miserably. Albany Lodge E1 5b. Easy slab to a headwall and then delicate moves up. More like Easy HVS 5a being totally honest but I knew that anyway but seeing as I've never done an HVS, all is good in the world.

In reply to Ali:
Other than doing your first 7b+ a couple of weeks ago?! Stick with it, things will improve again...

In reply to mrchewy: Yes it was me.
that came from a very crude conversation down the pub with a friend who described getting your first E1 like losing your virginity. it does not have to be good first time as it will get better as time goes on (it was much more crude in the pub).

In reply to mrchewy:

Great news Kelvin. You've improved fast over the last year and a half!

In reply to Ali:

hey, you've had a good grade push recently so take it easy on yourself. A couple of weeks of not much climbing could do you good, you'll come back psyched and well rested.

In reply to grubes:

STG: Ground Effect (7b) at Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s, work on remembering sequences.
MTG: 7a flash or in a day or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+

Mon: 4 mile flat run
Tues: Dinas Mot, alternate lead onsight Superdirect E1 5b and Nexus E1 5b. Not sure who did the crux pitches, they were all good and hard!
Weds: Pen Trwyn, top roped a 6c and an E3 5c.
Thurs: nowt
Fri: 5 mile trail run, 200m ascent
Sat: 3 Shires race route, 12.2 miles, 1,403m ascent
Sun: Kilnsey, good session on Ground Effect

Really good day at Dinas Mot on Tuesday but then a low psych day on Wednesday with sore elbows. I really should have led the 6c and the E3 but gave myself the sore elbows excuse.

I'm finally getting there with Ground Effect. I might even get on the sharp end next session.

In reply to AJM:

I can't do Kilnsey those days this week but I'd be up for a day there next Tuesday or Wednesday. That any good for you?

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Next Tuesday I'm in London - next Wednesday-Friday I've pencilled in a few days somewhere with a mate so depends where the weather takes us, certainly not against dragging him up to Yorkshire! Ill let you know...

In reply to AJM:

OK doke, sounds good.

In reply to mrchewy:

Nice one!! Take the grade

In reply to mrchewy: absolutely brilliant. well done mate

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Hey, while you're here, massive well done for all the routes you've been doing recently. You're a regular feature on the Top Ascents page. Awesome!!

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes.

Well done to mrchewy, doctor u & maria for just getting on E1.
I wish I could do that, even just with a HVS.
Lead central trinity last night and was really comfortable on it, I have lead it before but 4 years ago. Maybe time to force myself on a well protected HVS.

Wanted a really good running week for ascent with Snowdon fast approaching, wanted about 9000ft and only got 6500ft.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.

M: - 3.86m treadmill, 0.4%.
T: - Stanage Popular routes.
W: - 5.96m hills / trail run, 3,221ft.
T: – 6.16m trail run, 441ft.
F: - nothing.
S: - 6.82m hills / trail run, 2,872ft.
S: - Stanage Popular routes.

In reply to mrchewy: Nice one!! Take the tick and get one some more now
The HVS wasn't Bruvers was it? That climb is brutal!

In reply to grubes:

Cheers Luke. Hit a bit of a purple patch in the last couple of weeks; this was partly due to a boost in motivation.

I interviewed for a job in Houston, Tx and was quite confident of getting it and hence wanted to tick a bunch of stuff before leaving the NW.

I've not got the job, but i've still got the ticks!

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Summer 2013)

Re-start some finger strength exercises - steeper bouldering on small holds and maybe gentle re-introduction of finger boarding?

SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.

"To do" list at Kilnsey; The Bulge, Mandela, Urgent Action. Maybe investigate Full Tilt and Steal the Show?

Fit in some trad: Positron, King Wad, Cave Route Right & Central Wall (Kilnsey) currently motivate me. Who's keen?

STG
Priorities - re-assessment:
- Get energy back - again need some quality sleep this week after burning the candle at both ends last week
- Finger re-hab - stay on top of injuries and avoid Melancholie!
- Shoulder/elbow physio - shoulder is aching again. More theraband sessions needed!
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) 75.5kg and and 6.8% - feel stable at this weight now and happy to think about going lighter for harder redpoints

The week just gone:

M - Rest - meal at friends
T - After work Kilnsey session. Working Stolen after warming up; sorted 1st clip of extension and lead through crux for first time. Worked out techy heel hook method for top section shared with Bullet. Home at 0040 and no real dinner.
W - Dinbren, 6b/+/c warm-ups, then poor on-sight go at Technicolour Zawn, lowered from crux and did it 1st RP. Then back on Elite, dogged to put the clips in, wired top move I fluffed last week and did it straight after. Then did Back in Black straight off to finish off - more pumped at the shared top than on the 8a!
T - Rest
F - Rest. Very unprofessional lapse for a pre-redpoint day and had 2.5pints of Belgian beers and slept terribly
S - Late start back at Kilnsey. Warm-up on 6c then Ground effet which got me way too pumped to be an effective wam-up. Dogged Stolen to get clips in. Felt so much worse than Tues.
Set off with a "lets see what happens" approach - zero expectation, even when i go to the rest and just kept on going. Had to have a word with myself at the post-crux kneebar rest, but smashed it in.
S - Active rest - took g'friend to pot hole quarry to introduce her to steeper climbing. Was effectively soloing as her belaying is appalling!

Super chuffed with Saturday - 6.5years since I last climbed 8b and this felt so much steadier than Brean Topping.

Hopefully looking good for the Malham and Diamond projects? Just need a little more finger strength from what i remember from dogging them last year?

In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:
Let me know if you ever need a partner for the diamond I am keen to try the 7a there heard it is immense.

In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Good effort last week Ally!

Good to see you out up at Dinbren, smashing everything! Fancy it again this week?

Effort on Stolen! The "let's see what happens" approach seems to work for me too. Not stressing yourself about the outcome sometimes get's you up the route!

6 and a half years since your last F8b? Time for another proj I think!Insomnia??

In reply to grubes:

Cheers buddy!

M: Rest
T: Castle Inn with the girlfriend. Good progress getting her over her fear of hights/trusting a top-rope again. Did 3 x F4/+ and repeated a F5. Put clips in on a 6c+ and checked the moves but didn't have time to lead it.

W: Dinbren - 2 laps on a F6b as a warm up. The route doesn't seem to get me pumped at all anymore - cool! Worked moves on F7b+ proj, completely changed my beta for the crux so it now suites me more, spanned slap on crimps instead of a burly undercut move. Linked the thing in 2 halfs and sorted out clipping positions. Will be properly on redpoint next session and should go soon!

T: Quick fingerboard deadhang session.

Front 3 - 3 x 10 secs
Middle 2 - 3 x 10 secs
4 Finger Half-Crimp - 3 x 7 secs

F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Rest

Going to switch all my rest days to active rest days going forward, might help with recovery too!

In reply to maria85 and everyone:

Appreciated everyone but most of you have played some part in any progress I've made, just happy to feed some psyche back into the loop.

Yeh Maria - Bruvvers! I'm not strong and garbage at cracks. Placed first bit, got to where I needed to place the second bit and climbed back down. Went up once again and came down. Then fell three times seconding it! So not my style (should have tried Breaking the Barrier) and got a proper arse kicking but it was the first ever HVS I've tried. Totally intimidated.
Whereas the E1, totally calm, like I was soloing. Placed 4 bits of gear in 22m and thoroughly enjoyed it. Climbing a funny game.

Wen Zawn is frickin' awesome! Oh but check the wind (we had howling south-westerlies yesterday...).

In reply to AJM:

I feel your pain on the cake front, I've fallen into the regular afternoon coffee-and-cake boost, need to get out!
On the climbing plus side, at least hopefully you'll be covering lots of mileage without serious injury, which will mean fewer injuries when you can push the grade...

In reply to mrchewy: Glad to be of service/inspiration *bows so low his forelock scrapes the ground*

In reply to grubes: n.b., before you all think I've forgotten to post my update, I'm doing CPU-intensive stuff at work (i.e., waiting minutes for computers to do stuff) so have some time but not enough time...!

Update this evening. It's quite a good one this week

In reply to biscuit:

well done on the 7a flashes and onsights. And they're feeling straightforward! That must be nice I should know this but what's the difference between a flash and an onsight? I might have been mistakenly calling flashes onsights.

In reply to biscuit:

Good work on the multiple 7s!

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Flash - with some prior knowledge, but not having astually climbed on the route

On sight - no prior knowledge, other than what you can read in a guide book I suppose.

In reply to Nomics4sale:

On-sight is climbing it first time with no info other than what you can see and get from the guidebook.

Flash is a wide definition meaning anything more than the above but still climbing it first time. That may be seeing someone else climb it, something as vague as someone saying the crux is on crimps or a blow by blow account as you go up it.

I'm happy with mine as it was minimal extra info and i didn't even know what grade they were.

In reply to Exile:

you beat me to it !

In reply to Daniel Heath & Nomics:

Cheers.

Time to step it back up to 7b in a session targets every time i think.

I'm amazed how quickly my route fitness has come back from using the foot on campus board. It's very effective.

In reply to biscuit:
Out of interest,what holds do you use and how much do you move you hands around in a single go (90 seconds?) I tried some the other week and found they got me quite pumped, but have been avoiding since due to dodgy finger...

In reply to biscuit: missed the 7a,s well done andy. are you still waiting for your first proper 7a onsight?

In reply to Si dH:

My board is set up using Crusher Holds medium campus rungs. They're a little deeper than first joint for me.

I go for 1-4-7 but match on the 4 and the 7. When getting used to a new time or intensity i may need to ladder 1-2-3-4-etc to complete the time but consider i am ready to move on when i can do 4 sets with no small moves.

I used to go for fast movements but i now deliberately slow myself down. I count to 3 secs ( elephants ) for each movement up and down. Even if i am redpointing i reckon that's still fast. Just a bit more specific and gives me a better pump. I'm not training speed/power after all.

Counting moves could mean you could do 100 moves in 60 secs or 2mins depending on how fast you go and it wouldn't be the same every time.

I reckon it's helped me through a couple of finger tweaks in the past. Done with control it's an ideal way to repeatedly load a finger without going OTT.

In reply to grubes:
Good work biscuit, mrchewy, C Chestwig!

Mon - Rest. Knackered from the weekend.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Biscuit Factory. Lots (25ish? problems) around V3.
Thurs - Castle. Tired again. Did some stuff on the comp wall.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Portland, Wallsend. RPed Troll Team Special (7a+/b). Sat around in the sun watching the waves.
Sun - Wallsend. Worked Ariane V (7b) on lead, quite a big deal for me cos it's steep and I struggle with my head much more than on vertical stuff. It's got lots of bolts which helps! Ready to start RP attempts next time.

In reply to grubes:

You had to rub it in didn't you :-p

Yes i am. I did a route last week that says 6c+/7a on the wall, 6c+ in one guide and 7a in the other. Close but no cigar. It felt pretty straightforward tbh and i got to the chains still waiting for the hard bit. It was a beautiful set of organ pipe tufas. I just need to find another one of those and i've cracked it.

I reckon i could have had the 7a+ on-sight the other week too but went up it with a bolt to bolt mentality so didn't give 100%.

There's always more routes to go at.

In reply to biscuit:
Thanks, sounds good. I only have a bm2000, no campus board, but have been using tye middle slopers and large crimps, probably similar size I guess.

In reply to grubes: Thanks again, Grubes, your efforts are very much appreciated (I couldn't be up early on a Sunday morning to prep all this stuff!)

M: Flying back from Czech, Rest
Tu: Visited Craig Y Forwyn, nr Llanddulas. Most of this crag is closed (as it has been for 20 years) with very sensitive access issues. But even what we are allowed to climb is fantastic! No leading, but clean climbing:
* Chatterley HVS 5a: a big overhanging crack that looks worse than it is. Loads or arm jams, which meant I didn't believe I could do it. A bit of down climbing required because of my weak left arm/shoulder. I managed it clean, though, so happy to get it done!
* Arian Direct Finish (VS 4c) beautiful layback crack, followed by a bit of a thin mantle. This one I really enjoyed!
W: Rest
Th: Swim, 30' easy (my swimming's got faster!), followed by in pool stretches. This was to sort out my shoulder a bit: easy, weight-supported "active recovery" (this month's watchword!)
F: Rest
Sa: 6 mile walk around Ogwen Valley: Up Y Gribin (including a ridge scramble), Glyder Fawr and Y Garn. A bit wet
Su: A DREAM OF WHITE HORSES (full route) HVS 4c/5a at Wen Zawn, Gogarth. WOW, what a climb! We did the whole original 4-pitch route from sea-level. I was middle of 3 climbers, which meant I didn't have to worry about gear or belays, just observe and learn. The experience was made somewhat more exciting by the strong (20-25mph) gusting southwesterly wind blowing directly into the Zawn. The wind made it cold, but bearable. On the start of the final traverse pitch, however, the wind seemed to be channelled and was whipping spray directly up the cliff, and even blew over my colleague on the hanging belay! The rain arrived just as the last chimney was exited, and in the time it took us to pack, had blown over and become bright sunshine. Overall, a worthwhile and amazing climbing experience, and only one 5a move in the middle of P2 (even though UKC says 4c, and the guidebook said first 2 pitches are 5a!).

Ok, so not the amazing E1/E2 Onsight that I might have suggested. But a positive head-game week for me, at the right level to follow last week's struggling.

Now, which E1 should I line up next?

In reply to useful: Dream looks amazing, it's on my list to lead this year. Nice work on getting the lower pitch in too. Seconded Quart Icicle back in Nov, so got a good look at it and that last pitch looks so unlikely for the grade. I was only across the way on Sunday at Holyhead Mountain, it started fine but by 4pm the wind was blowing a hoolie! Sounds like a quality week...

In reply to grubes:
STG: Get a better understand of impact force on protection.
MTG: 17 e-points in July
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(20 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(1)
Focus: PE(2/2)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.

Two week post for me. Not much training on week one, just a day ARC,4*4 & repeaters. PE & strength still felt like they'd stepped up. Got one evenings sport climbing to 6b+, I really need to start making much more effort to get on 6c as 6b+ usually feels really steady. Final evening out was at Chee Tor, I did 42nd Street which is my first e3 on limestone.

This week was a family holiday in Cornwall. The wife humoured me & climbed a couple of routes with me. Kicked off with a nice easy route @ Zennor cliff. Thursday we got down to Bosigan just as the mist arrived. I looked @ Vision's of Johanna, it looked really poorly protected which was exactly what my head was not in the mood for but I got on it any way. I got to the crux & didn't trust any of my gear, only an rp2 at my feet looked well placed & I wasn't sure how good an rp2 is at holding lead falls. Long & tall of it is I spent ages wishing for more gear & then when I finally looked at the moves I realized they were easy. Lesson? I need to get a better understanding of the holding power of micro nuts (& a 5kn rp2 seems pretty adequate for the kind of falls I am man enough to take). Did a Arc, 4*4, Repeaters session on Sunday (down on Strength & PE after being lazy for two weeks).

Max 4 days training available to me next week. Will probably prioritize weights/push-ups/pull-ups/core simply because I haven't trained them for a few weeks.

Next weeks training:
Tue: Shoulders & Arms(Weights). Core.
Wed: Push-ups & Pull-ups. Core
Thu: Arc, 4x4, Repeaters.

In reply to useful:

Who cares about the E1/E2 tick when you got on that super classic. Sounds like you had a brilliant day.

M-Core - 240
T-Rest
W-Bouldering at Forest Rock. New hardish project there.
T-Rest
F-2hr football.
S-Rest
S-Rest

Not much for me this week as I've been pretty busy and the weather was rubbish on Friday evening. I've got another busy week this week (going to London for the weekend.) . Just trying to keep myself fit and psyched for the epic summer holiday ahead.

In reply to biscuit:

Ah yes I have been told that before. Some of my "onsights" have definitely been "flashes". Oh well.

Great going though for you. You definitely need to push into regular 7b ticks in a day if 7a is now steady.

In reply to Exile:

Cheers for that too

In reply to useful:

Awesome day on on Sunday. Must have been very exciting in the wind! Great timing getting out just before the rain. All meticulously planned no doubt

In reply to mrchewy:
The last pitch is probably the easiest! It's really big juggy holds on a simple slab. The only "scary" thing about it is that at some point, you'll catch a glimpse of the waves crashing between your legs... It was the thin balancy crux in the middle of P2 that was the head challenge, especially with that gusting wind trying to blow me off the mountain!

All the way walking in, our most experienced team member (sounds grand, but he's just a bloke!) was saying, "If anyone wants to change their mind and climb on Holyhead Mountain, I'll agree with them straight away. Just in case anyone wants to change their mind. And just to avoid any arguments" - but the remaining two of us kept schtum with ensuing adventure

In reply to Nomics4sale: mais bien sur
A team of 2 other climbers, who abbed in and did the route quickly behind us, got caught badly by the rain on the last pitch, but they had E5 6b RP experience between them. Even the fact that it's a roof didn't help: the rain was horizontal/vertical upwards directly into the cliff! And it was the kind of wind-driven rain that stings the eyes...

In reply to JimmyKay: Thanks, it's all mileage for the Next Big One (you and me both!)

In reply to grubes:

I did think I'd made noises about doing FC for July before. So if no one else is able to I will. However I'm in Pembroke all weekend, so if someone wants to put up a placeholder, I'll put up stats on Sunday eve / Monday morning.

In reply to mattrm:

I'll do it this week Matt - stats and all.

I am at a loose end - stuck at my house without a car and the kids. It'll be a nice distraction.

Enjoy Pembroke.

In reply to biscuit:

Ok, I'd already made a start on writing the stuff up, I'll email what I've done over to you.