/ UKC fit club week 329

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biscuit - on 06 Jul 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (328) thread:

Honorary mention to Mr Chewy for hist first E1. Stop the modesty. If it says E1 somewhere then someone thought it was an E1, take the tick and crack on.

Ali – I am losing count of how many people are ill ! Hope you're feeling better.

Biscuit – yes i'm feeling better thanks. I am answering Grube's question btw not talking to myself.

AJM – Less meh more crush ? Maybe a mix/change is needed ? Mattrm says “ Eat less cakes “

Eagle River – any progress on your sneaky week night sessions ?

mbh – 55 mile week. Good effort.

Stevemarkperry – another one for lurgy club. Hope you're feeling better.

Needkraken – hope you don't get midged too badly.

Si dH – I think we should call it lurgy club at the moment. It's certainly not fit club for a few of us.

grubes – Dutchman's zawn sounds amazing. Did you get epic ?

Mattrm – I climbed at Gower for a couple of days a while ago. I remember Exposure Explosion being pretty cool. On one pitch going round a corner the leader messed up his rope work and I ended up having to basically solo it until I could get to his rope tangle. Spicy.

Exile – the next step up always feels just as hard as the last one. That's what keeps us going.

Nick Russell – seems to be the season for people getting ill. Hope you're feeling better.

NMN – good steady mileage

Curious Yellow – good work on Troll Team Special. Sometimes it's nice to sit and chill after isn't it ?

Jimmykay – nearly holidays. You teachers eh ! Start at 9.15, finish at 3, 50 weeks a year holiday and a great pension.

IainRUK – It looks like the taper worked perfectly. I'll leave you to spill the beans. Well done !

Nomics4sale – I always listen to my excuses for trad. If some part of me is not wanting to push it on a trad route I used to go with it. Don't be too hard on yourself.

Porkpiegirl – millimetre by millimetre you are grinding that route down. Inspirational !

luke owens – good progress. Get on the sharp end quick.

Maria85 – your crap week would be a great week for most. Concentrate on getting well and don't panic about the race. Nice 6k time btw

C Chestwig – 8b top one ! That's a pretty cool to do list as well.
Useful – Classic route ! Memories for a lifetime.

Leon – all good learning. Experience in the bank.

Kevster – good to see you back. Some nice trips lined up there.
biscuit - on 06 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Posted early as i have a feeling i may forget in the morning.
AJM - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

> AJM – Less meh more crush ? Maybe a mix/change is needed ? Mattrm says “ Eat less cakes “

A good shout on both fronts biscuit/Matt. Made good progress on the cake reduction until the wedding I went to yesterday - sweet stall at a wedding, cracking idea

After last week's post I sat and moped for a bit then had some strong words with myself and got myself out to huntsham on a solo trip. Always struggle with motivation for going out solo. Got most of the moves for Ames Low reworked, got 2 more left but might need a spot as the slope under them means you go pad skating every time you fall off. Linked a decent chunk, better than last time, hopefully link through to those final moves soon and get down there with a partner to sort the last couple.

Then all of a sudden I ended up booking myself in for a few days at Malham Monday to Wednesday. Arrived Monday afternoon and dogged then ticked Taking the Space which is really quite fun. Had a few goes on the New Dawn start but feet kept pinging. Speaking to Steve Dunning Wednesday he reckoned the dragons aren't really ideal Malham shoes. So that's an excuse

Tues warmed up on TTS. Tried to onsight Yosemite wall got it second go. Met Dan Heath. Tried start of mescalito. Decided we didn't really like it, thin and probably faffy without a local to dole out beta. Played on raindogs. Fun moves. I'd been thinking I wanted to try something harder, 7c/+, but hadnt liked the ones I'd tried so had a quick go on space race to get moves, hoping to at least tick something

WEdnesday - TTS to warm up. Clips in Space Race. Wasted one redpoint as clip wasn't extended enough. Then I think 2 redpoints, flaming out about 3 moves shy of kneebar. 4th day of hard climbing on at this point so having to dig deep. Last go I flamed out lower but linked easily from the top of the sharpness to the top.

So a good few days. Would have been good to tick SR but to get so close to the end of it (there's climbing above the kneebar obviously but boredom would be the limiting factor on recovering in it!) 4th day on when I was that knackered isn't a bad sign.

Friday I went to wintours. 6b+ to warm up. Then got on Heil Hitler a multipitch sport route. Got the crux 7a pitch second go ground up, saw the sequence too late, quite strenuous hanging around. Seconded the 6c second pitch clean and flashed the third pitch also 7a with Mike's beta after his lead. So hot! Plans for dinosaur heaven (7c+) were abandoned in favour of what shade there was under GO Wall. Got on mein kampf 7b+, flash go, fell off the mantel, then got utterly shut down on the move after, the crux, too stretched on the better hands to weight the smears and too weak for the lower crapper hands. After exploding the only plausible foothold for my sequence I gave up. 3 toprope laps on heil Hitler p1 for training.

Wedding yesterday, currently on the way to the churnet will report back later.
AJM - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to AJM:

Oh and my Loup plans for September have fallen through. Am still looking for work so can't yet really organise anything myself but if anyone has a trip that could accommodate me piggybacking on it as/when I know if I'll be working or not then I'd love to hear about it! Gonna be an optimist and keep training as if I'm going, and if all else falls through I'll switch back to getting stronger instead...
AJM - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to AJM:

> Wedding yesterday, currently on the way to the churnet will report back later.

Went to Wrights. Conditions not too bad really had a patch of mugginess part way through the day but overall ok. Did some easy stuff, spent a while on Simple Simon Indirect V6 and tried other stuff of similar sort of grade too. Didn't get SSI in the end and also discovered at the end I had been trying it from the Wrongs Traverse start which means I'm not sure if I failed because its hard, I'm weak, or both Pulled on the right starting holds at the end and they felt nails so suspect I'm just weak. My lack of bouldering ability in comparison with my peers never ceases to surprise me! Still, got to tackle these weaknesses head on!

Cool crag, liked it.
Si dH - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Biscuit. Feeling better now thanks although finger and elbow aren't right yet.

Goals for 2013:
Grit: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 6 E2s, 3 E3s) (excluding snowballing!)
Peak lime: 10 E2s, 5 E3s in 2013 (so far 2 E2, 5 E3s)
Elsewhere: 8 E2s, 4 E3s in 2013 (so far 3 E2s, 2 E3s)
Overall that would be 91 E-points...let's chuck in 9 E1s and make it 100

Sport: 2 7b+s to keep my hand in, ideally Brachiation Dance and Space Race but I'm not holding myself to those - too conditions, travel and partner-dependent.

M: rest
T: Climbing Station at Lboro. Focussing on some power endurance work - I got through the crux a couple of times on the 10 degree circuit board 7a, had a few other goes on it, did the 35 degree 7a clean twice (much easier than the 10 degree one!) and finished off with a couple of laps on the 6b+. Not a bad session but I could feel my elbow and finger again, especially the elbow - very tight. Decided to rest for a few days.
T-S: rest
S: Chee Tor today. Did Rape E2 5b and Rave On E3 5c, seconded Great Central Route p1 HVS 5a, then tried 42nd Street E3 5c. Think I got through the bulk of the crux, got on two thin side pulls high up and got a high foot up on the big slopey holds, but couldn't work out how to reach out in to the upper crack, was pretty boxed and took quite a big fall. Bit annoyed but you can't win them all. Interested in the sequence leon used the other week if you see this?

Still got a free day around Yorkshire next Saturday if anyone wants to meet up? Bit unsure where though -if the weather is like today it will need to somewhere north facing - it was just too hot today in the sun.

Eagle River - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit.

Goals: Biological Need (tick), sticky wicket (tick), 50 for 5 and the Ashes

Mon: Made a bad call in the morning and didn't put my bouldering mat in the car so ended up indoors doing circuits. really worthwhile training but should've been on real rock.

Thurs: Afternoon off work so went up to Kilnsey. Put clips in Biological Need and did it first RP attempt of the day. Then stick clipped up Sticky Wicket, had one top rope go and lead it next attempt. That one afternoon doubled my total number of routes done at kilnsey, which is sweet.

Non climbing weekend just gone but will be out next weekend and hopefully in the week for more kilnsey action. Will try 50 for 5 first (if free) then decide whether to stick with it or get back on dominatrix now I have more kilnsey mileage in the bank.
Si dH - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to AJM:
Ssi is quite hard for 7a I think, big move up to the break.off that pocket. For me the key was getting my right toe on th little edge at the back of the roof, in down-turned shoes - I could then keep this foot on while reaching the break which made a massive difference.
mrchewy - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Ta fella. Determined to crack on with the trad but need to nail a load of VS routes at some point, as I'm pottering up HS fine now unless it's grit and a crack. Hopefully get on E1 again this weekend...

Year's goals -

V4 - Dunno. I've got to work harder to get one...
E1 - Tick. Need two more yet.
6b onsight, get on 7a - Need to actually do some sport for this. Hayfever stopped me in my tracks at Portland the other weekend.

STG - Get back to were I was on overhangs prior to tearing my medial ligament in January.

Injury status - Still doing exercises to get my right glute firing. It just stopped working, leading to imbalance and my left arm getting proper pumped trying to take up the slack. Bizarre. Thank goodness I have access to a very good physio.

Mon - Boulder. Warmup. Try V2/3 and 4. The crimpy, 30deg overhanging V4 is nails for me, won't happen but that's the point...
Tue - Rest
Wed - Boulder. Warmup. Try V3/4. All overhanging and crimpy.
Thu - Boulder. Warmup. Got V1 on slab statically. Meant feet very high and crimp the hell out of a match. Happy with that!
Fri - Boulder. Warmup. Try V3/4. Cruised a V2 first go, did other V1 on the slab I hadn't done. Tried V4 on the slab. Need to be more flexible.
Sat - Worked late.
Sun - Worked till the tennis, watched that and then my parents arrived.

Reflected a lot on my climbing this week. 'Bit quirky' seems to be the problem. I'm happy to be above gear, no issues there but lack confidence at times in my ability to do moves. No fear of falling but a definite fear of failing, I hate failing. So scrapped any ideas of doing routes indoors as really have no psyche for it and IMO gain very little from it. Outside is all that matters. I'm comfy on lead outside, even if I'm not inside. So it's a matter of working harder moves/problems indoors and that should give me confidence in my ability to hang in there. Does that sound right?
Realised that the only reason I fell seconding Pull My Daisy was due to not giving my utter all first time - I should know this. Eng 5c on slabs I can do, I need to know this in my head, to have no doubts. I'm happy to work problems - bouldering helps me onsight trad and if that means not leading indoors and practising falls, then I'm good with it as the gains to me are much greater.

Quiet start to next week as having an op on my eyelid but then Wales for 4 days at the weekend. Get in!
mattrm - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Gower? You mean Ogmore? Exposure Explosion is at Ogmore. Miles (20+) away from the Gower. However it's a few minutes away from my house. You should have said, could have popped round for a cuppa or summat. However it's on my list. Looks ace. There's lots of good trad on Ogmore. It's not quite as good as Pembroke (not as large for starters) but it's a good crag.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, UTMB/Lakes 100, stay injury free & maintain

Weight - 11st 12lbs (same)

M - 30 mins yoga
T - Shoulder prehab
W - 1.5h Yoga
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Trad @ Pembroke
S - Trad @ Pembroke

Based on Goals from last week, not a great week. I still end up missing something. Was planning on running at Pembs on Friday night, but I arrived at the campsite late. So that put the kybosh on that. Saturday was spent bimbling around at Saddle Head. Sunday at mate and I did Myola on Stuntsman's Buttress (its at the start of Huntsman's Leap) which is a pretty nice VS (HS climbing in a VS situation). I seconded it. But with putting the tents down, lots of faffing, waiting for the route, it was 2pm by the time we finished. So I headed off home. My trad head is still a bit iffy really and I'm still struggling much above HS. Seconding is fine, but I just go to pieces on the lead when I hit a tricky move or two. Need to visit Pembroke more as it's not that much of a drive really. About 1 and a half hours and quite a lot of it is motorway / dual carridgeway.

So lets do a bit better next week and hit all the goals. Then get a bit more seconding in and get the confidence to get better at VS. Then I need to move onwards, as I've got the ability to be doing much harder.

Any trad confidence tips ;adies and gents? Especially when you know you can physically do the moves quite comfortably.

3 core/yoga - 2 sessions
1 good climb (ideally a days trad) - yes
1 run (10k) - nope
proper diet - did ok
Fingerboard session - nope
Hit all goals!
Same goals for next week.
biscuit - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to mattrm:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> Gower? You mean Ogmore? Exposure Explosion is at Ogmore. Miles (20+) away from the Gower.

Wales shmales. It's all the same isn't it ?

Oops ! It was a few years ago now in my defence.
Si dH - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to mattrm:
Its just all about mileage. Go out and aim to onsight lead (repeating things or seconding cou.ts for nothing) at least 5 pitches each day out. Very achievable in summer even when alternating leads. Focus on s or hs if thats hour most commob grade but dont afrid to oick the odd soft touch vs. Do a bit of research so you dobt get spanked, it will still help your confidence afterwards to have done it, even if you know its a soft touch - and that will make trying other vs less intimidating.
mbh - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit. And so it goes on....

Tue run 8.6 m
Wed run 10.3 m
Thu run 7.4 m PB by 3 min, of 50 attempts.
Fri run 7.2 m, coastpath ,woods.
Sat run 9.3, Swim 1.6 km
Sun run 13.0 m

55 m again, 1200 m ascent. A bit of a slog this week, grinding out the distance, with not many fast miles. One good day, on Thursday, when I took 3 minutes off a hilly 7 miles-ish route that I have done for years. That was hard and felt good.

Fifth, 50+ mile week in a row. Now more than 1700 miles running and 200 k swimming for the last 12 months. New territory for me. I can force myself to get out, keep going and cover distance, it seems, but pulling my finger out for the odd fast mile still too often seems an effort too far. Not sure what to do about this.
Si dH - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Sorry about my typing, im on my phone...
mattrm - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks for that. Yeah, I'm sure you're right, it's just a getting the miles in thing. Always an issue for me, but I'm sure I'll manage. :D
mrchewy - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to mattrm: I took a right beating a few weeks back - backed off five VS climbs in a row for various reasons, mostly not wanting to break my ankles on a ledge. Pottered off and did Aonach Eagach and Curved Ridge, led a HS on rock I like... confidence back.
I'm the opposite of you tho, happy on lead but never sure if I have the ability to climb certain grades. I find seconding utterly nerve wracking, usually it's on stuff a bit too hard for me and I desperately want it clean - so I find seconding benefits me greatly.
Curious Yellow - on 07 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Rest.
Wedns - Castle. Good intense boulder.
Thurs - Castle. Ditto. Pretty trashed at the end of the session.
Fri - Castle. Clunked my knee badly early on so took it easy.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Shorncliff. Led a VS and an HVS and seconded 2 HVSes. Managed to make terrible rope drag on a straight up 30m slab! Back to sport next weekend...

grubes - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> grubes – Dutchman's zawn sounds amazing. Did you get epic ?
Check the blog definately shit shit scared for most of the day. Loved it
The epic did not happen. It will happen soon

STG (July 2013):
Regularly try and lead cracks and committing laybacks
Climb on gogarth
Lead E2 try onsight
MTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
Boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Grand wall at squamish

Goals for this week
Do some thing epic - Had a plan for friday night but it fell through another time.
Sort out head - Lead a slightly bold feeling E1 so maybe
Work on endurance - was pretty pumped hanging around last move of the E1 but not properly

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Wharncliff. Lead HS and E1 onsight. Soloed a S. 2nd a HS
T: rest
F: Blackstones. Brilliant.
1x5 2x5+ all flashed. 2x6A 1x6A+ 2x6B probably my most successful boulder session ever. Nice long walk in to get the blood flowing. made a video https://www.vimeo.com/69822617 Really psyched on the way back for a full weekend of bouldering .....
After I met a mate who was heading up to a skate park got there is was packed walking back home messed about doing pull ups and capussing in a kids playground. Then fell off a roundabout, turned my ankle and screwed my knee. F*ck!
S: Rest ish. Walked to town and back about a mile and a half up and down hill.
Went to holmfirth with a mate. Talked him through a few problems did a couple in trainers. Sat in the sun and read a book.
Helped a friend move house and ran the barbeque
S: Rest ish. Helped a friend move house and moved a washing machine

Next week's goals:
Climb again

So a not very productive weekend but saying that it was too hot to climb.
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh:
> I can force myself to get out, keep going and cover distance, it seems, but pulling my finger out for the odd fast mile still too often seems an effort too far. Not sure what to do about this.

From what i remembr Iain ran high mileage for a long while before he started speed work. I don't know if that was intentional to let his body adapt or he just never did it before. I think trying to do both at once ( especially while you're pushing into new territory ) may be a bit much. Settle in to your new regular mileage and then crack on ?

heelhookofglory - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers Biscuit. Yep much better thanks!


Get weight back down to around 142 lbs before 23rd June: Currently 146 (I think this excess is building of leg muscle from training on the bike so not particularly bothered, body fat seems to at my norm)
Re-strengthen core and upper body
Churnet 7A (a solid-at-the-grade is still elusive!)
MTB fitness increase with consistent riding

This Week:

M: Upper body strength session (non-standard session, weights)
T: 15km Mountain bike ride
W: Rest
T: 16km Mountain bike ride
F: 16km Mountain bike ride
S: 15km Mountain bike ride in the morning then 22km Mountain bike ride in the afternoon
S: Walk (rest day) at Stanage with my better half then we had a well earned pizza with friends

Totals for the week, 83.31km / 5hrs 43mins of training. A good week, starting to get the feel of being back on the bike again.
heelhookofglory - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> From what i remembr Iain ran high mileage for a long while before he started speed work...

I'd second this. I'm not sure about running as I have no experience there but with cycling I would want to be building a good solid base of long easy miles before adding strength / power workouts to improve my speed.

Joe Friel has some great books out, I have read his Training Bible for cycling and it's very good, you may want to look into his running / triathlon ones.
Needkraken - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Thanks, unfourtuantely I got midged really badly the day I tried to get out and spent a lot of my holiday walking with family so didn't quite as much mileage as I'd hoped (grr) but at least I didn't have to work for a week! In the last week or so I've also got the keys to my new house (and feel scarily grown up) so that's been keeping me busy

Two week update for me as I was not with proper internet

STG - boulder more 6a's , get more confident outdoors, lead S by choice , keep the psyche, second whatever my friends climb & lead every session I can
MTG - 6b sport, lead HS without screaming tooooooooo much , get psyche to lead routes I chose
LTG - to feel I can push myself on lead, be stronger, find routes I really want to do, make a wishlist by the end of the year

M: Band
T: packing
W: went to Pule Hill, had a very bad time seconding a stupid route, got angry at myself for being scared then couldn't make much of the rest of the session =(
T: more packing, not much sleeping
F: packed up cars, got keys for new house, moved boxes into new house (win) heavy lifting at Ikea
S: Drive up to Scotland, potter down to the loch
S: Take mum walking meeting gran at the pub, decided the route was too short and took a 3 mile de-tour, mum unimpressed at me dragging her up to some of the local boulders. Got midged escape to the safety of the pub

M: Bit of an epic bike ride, haven't ridden properly since I was a kid, got beaten up by hills and ended up on terrain really unsuited for the bike
T: Lots of rain, should've done some walking but was hurting from day before, ended up getting slaughtered at snooker
W: Went up a little hill (Ben an) nearly killed mum, after we got down didn't quite have time to go up the bigger one I had my eye on =(
T: Little brothers graduation, early start to drive to Aberdeen and late finish after a long train journey home
F: Cleaned old house, built furniture, traveled down south for DJ gig
S: Traveled back, little bit of house work ended up have a bbq
S: Finally get chance to sort things, build epic amount of flatpack furniture and sort the kitchen

So not a great deal of climbing over the last couple of days but have at least been doing quite a bit. Hopefully this week I can pick up the climbing a bit more again and finish sorting the house =)
Exile - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

def' agree. Had a go on a different 7b+ this week which confirmed this!

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - not yet, may wait until the Autumn

Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

The aim for the week reported below was: 'Aim for the coming week it to try to climb harder, (given the weather plays ball!) Either a short session RP of a 7a or try to onsight an E3. We'll see!' - Tick!

Weeks training:

M: Evening: 45min road run, 10min core.
T: Evening: Held the faith despite the rain and went to Red Wall, Trowbarrow, rather than the wall. Endurance TR reps on Izy the Push, E2 5c, Heavy Metal Kid, E3 5c and the E2 between them. Really good session.
W: Morning: Short sessions of reps on 6b+ traverse. Thought it would be a recovery session but was actually pretty tired from previous evening so felt harder than it should have.
T: Rest
F: 1hr 30min interval traversing on 7a traverse. Still feeling tired from Tuesday.
S: Not really training but did a scramble in Kentmere with the family, which was great.
S: 5hr climbing. Went to Coudy Rocks, Appleby, for an extended evening session. OSed Buffalo Bill, 6a, OSed New Fair Invasion, 6a+, TRed Big in Japan, 7a, (tricky move at the top - would benefit from cooler temps' for this, RPed Perfect Weather to Fly, 7a, and dogged up Sequence Dance, 7b+, to see what the moves felt like, (hard, but doable if stronger / lighter!)

Chuffed to RP Perfect Weather to Fly in a short space of time, (about an hour,) and think I could get Big in Japan in cooler weather, (thought we may have blown it trying to climb on sandstone when it was so warm.) We all found the sandstone easier to see sequences on than Scout Scar limestone which speeded things up quite a lot.

Aims for this week. No climbing partners so going to try to get the double traverse on the top end of Badger Rock, which I guess is about 7a+ route grade, to keep the 'climbing hard' momentum going.
NMN - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Half Marathon - 1h 25m.

Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
Push trad grade.
Lead a tough E1.

M: - 3.50m treadmill, 5%.
T: - 6.12m trail run, 454ft.
W: - Stanage Popular routes.
T: – 5.94m trail run, 469ft.
F: - 3.00m hills, 1,774ft.
S: - nothing.
S: - 9.40m Skiddaw Fell Race, 2,719ft.

Trying to estimate possible Snowdon time from my Skiddaw time is probably difficult to do, but I think I'm a few minutes quicker than my 2011 best, but a good five minutes away from the target time above. The fell targets are a bit optimistic I think, based on an assumption that I was going to actually get quite a bit better.
Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to ER and Exile:

Nice one ER with 7c and 7b+ in a session. Why bother with 50 for 5? just get on Dominatrix FFS!

Exile: 7a in a day, good going.
Nick Russell on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Thanks, I think I can leave the lurgy club now! Weird how it seemed to hit so many of us at the same time (any epidemiologists out there to offer an explanation?)

This week:
M - 3 mile run, climbing at Wintour's leap (King Kong, E1 5b). I should remember that "classic E1" is hard work, almost as hard as "classic HVS"!
T - 6 mile run, core
W - 3 mile run, bolt-clipping at Ban y Gor. I had an attempt at Pet Cemetery (7a) which was a great route but didn't manage to flash it. Unfortunately being a short evening session I didn't get a second attempt in for a quick RP.
T - Rest
F,S,S - Climbing at the Roaches. My grit-fu wasn't strong this weekend (I blame the heat :p). I got a fair number of routes in, though mostly well below my grade, a couple of Es, but also a couple of dnfs and a dog. Generally good fun, and I'm looking forward to getting back on grit in the autumn when it's cooled down a bit!

I wasn't sufficiently disciplined with the running this week and my pace crept back up towards my "natural" pace and the shins started playing up again. I find running slowly (that is, slower than about 8 minute miles) really frustrating, but I think it's going to be necessary for a while.

Short term plan (~1 month)
this week: take it easy so I go to Frankenjura fresh
next week: crush in Frankenjura
later: keep up the momentum from the trip
Medium term goals (this summer season)
Trad: Onsight E3 6a, become solid at E3 on more rock types/climbing styles. Get on more E4s (especially those a bit higher in the grade)
Sport: Lots of 7a/+ sport climbing (maybe sneaking in an onsight at this level). Redpoint 7b
Running: Snowdonia marathon in October
Longer term goals (probably not this season)
Sport: Paradise Lost, Cheddar
Trad: The Axe, Cloggy
Running: Longer races, start some fell running
grubes - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:
Definately not grit conditions (esp south facing realtively low lying grit)

Saying that I go good friction friday night on the moors.
Luke Owens - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Cheers Biscuit!

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - Rest

Wednesday - Dinbren - Back on the F7b+ proj, moves felt easier again when dogging up putting the clips in. Had about 3 redpoints getting powered out making the third clip. Moves are feeling better so hopefully if I can stop getting so powered out it'll be in the bag!

Thursday - Castle Inn - Took the girlfriend out, she's got new shoes that now fit so she's psyched. She led her first route for 2 years, she has a very bad fear of heights and went from getting very scared on top rope last week to leading in good style with no mishaps this week! Awesome!

Friday - ill/Rest

Saturday - Family beach trip/bought some new climbing shoes. Scarpa Instinct VS's (They are awesome!)

Sunday - Pen Trwyn, wanted to get on Mayfair Wall/LPT but it was in the sun/tide was in so went round the corner and did three awesome (but greasy!) routes:

String of Pearls (F6b+) - On-sighted, proper classic!
Sheik Yer Money (F6c) - Burly steep start, blew the on-sight cutting loose, got it on redpoint and almost took a whipper from the run out to the chains on hand jams (Never jammed in my life!!)
Stake Out (F7a) - Almost flashed! Looked rubbish from the deck but had such a good compression heelhook sequence.

Went back round to Mayfair wall and it was busy so put clips in on Bloodsports (F7b) and worked the moves but it was mega greasy. Great route!

Great session! I feel a F7a flash/on-sight is possible soon if I pick a route that suites me (Technical)!
Banned User 77 - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Thanks.. see now.. time to think whats next, maybe world mountain running long distance champs in Poland.. may have been selected after this weekend..

m: 6 miles steady on trails
t: 12 miles, 9 miles at 6:15 pace.. felt good
w: 8 miles with 5 x 1 km reps at 5:30-5:40 pace
t: 3.5 miles 6:40 pace
f: 3.5 miles easy
s; 47.5 miles, 2500m ascent, 5:56.. 4th in worth IAU trail championships, team gold for GB, gold for Ricky Lightfoot, bronze for the women,.. awesome day, the race of my life.. 2 mins 10 seconds off bronze after 6 hrs of running.. but had nothing else to give so happy with how it went,
s: 3 miles easy.. legs sore

Great weekend, great team mates, great coaches. Having the reigning world champs on my shoulder and feeling stronger than him and dropping him was great..
NMN - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Well done Iain, amazing achievement.

The tracking thing was a welcome distraction to trying to work on Saturday, you seemed to move through the places great between 24k to 61k.
Banned User 77 - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to NMN: Thanks, I felt like I was blowing up.. but everyone was.. so it was just who blew up least.. awesome run by Ricky though..
maria85 - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Cheers biscuit, and thanks for the encouragement!

Had a good week and topped it off with a definite YYFY kinda weekend. Back in the game, very happy, and very achey today...!

Bike commute every day, 20km.
M: Ilkley Rocky Valley. Led Illegitimate Crack (VS 4c) - lovely. Got on Gym Crack (HVS 5b) as pretty much everything else was midgey, didn't really think I stood a chance on it (overhanging jamming pumpfest). Made it through the first section of fingerlocks fine (apparently I have 'piton fingers' which might help!) but came off on the upper jams. Dogged the hell out of it and finished it, 1m of climbing took me about 15mins though...!
T: Evening run in the rain, 7.8km w/ 155m height, 41mins which is really fast for me. Came back grinning, fantastic run.
W: Just commuting, really tired and trying to rest up for the weekend.
T: Back to Rocky Valley to get on Beeline (HVS 5a). Fell off it. Gutted, really wanted the onsight. Finished it clean after a rest though, one to go back to when stronger. So pumped after that I fell off Somersault (VS 4c) on 2nd - hardest VS ever though!!
F: Just commute - resting for weekend.
S: Quick climb on the way to Coniston, Stonescar Crag for Columbia (E1 5b). Got it! Another E1, and felt steady, though lots of small fiddly gear meant I was super slow. Couple of hard moves just above gear and didn't get the fear, which is a definite step forward.
S: Marathon Day. Started at 7am so missed the worst of the heat, thank goodness. I was aiming for sub-6hours, as the course is pretty tough (all rocky trails and ~900m elevation gain). I finished in 4:49!! So happy. Only realised I could go sub-5 at the 30km mark, 3:20 at that point. Felt comfortable, tired and hot by the end but still in one piece. Results aren't out yet so will be interesting to see how I did overall. Nice course, though a lack of markers between 15 & 30km was a bit disconcerting. Spent the rest of the day lazing in the sun.

A few weeks ago I wrote: "do I think I can finish 42km? Yes, as long as it's not too hot. In under 6 hours? Possibly not. Will I be able to walk the next day? Very debatable!" Definitely very happy at ticking all of those, including being able to walk (just) and getting through mega heat towards the end.

Goals update:
- Consolidate E1 (specifically, lead 8 E1s) and push to E2. Concentrate on crack climbing in preparation for Italian granite-fest end of summer. 2 x E1. Have been doing some crack, still struggling on it.
Am adding 10 x HVS to the above to encourage me to consolidate at HVS and not just push for E grades.

- Sport: 6b and get on a 6b+/6c. Tick 6b+ RP.
- Enough indoor/fingerboard/core training to enable the above. Develop a routine with this and stick to it.
- Spend a week climbing in either S Wales or Cornwall (weeks holiday to use still) Pembroke trip planned for this weekend/early next week.
- Scotland trip - mountain multipitch somewhere (Cuillin Ridge would be a bonus)
- Running: complete a trail half or full marathon race. Run the 3 peaks (the Yorkshire ones that is). Tick! 3 peaks & trail marathon.
- Run commutes at least once a week. Build milage up to ~40km/week.
- MTB: the Mary Townley loop in a day.
maria85 - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to IainRUK: Brilliant Iain, awesome effort! And 3 miles the following day after nearly 50 at that speed? Ouch. Respect. (I can barely hobble around the office today!)
Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to maria85:

Nice one with the E1 tick and your super quick marathon. Really hot day yesterday which makes your time all the more impressive.
NMN - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to maria85:

Well done - so much quicker than your target!
There is quite a lot of ascent in that isn't there and it still got hot really early on Sunday.
Ally Smith on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Bit of a mixed bag this week. I naively texted a mate saying that my fingers were finally starting to feel strong again, and then went and got myself another tweak

More crimp/snake oil and glucosamine for me...

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham & new routes on the Diamond

MTG (Summer 2013)

SUP ext at Pigeons - cruising the bottom section, just need to work out a way to do the crux which is currently very low percentage for me.

"To do" list at Kilnsey; The Bulge, Mandela, Urgent Action. Maybe investigate Full Tilt and Steal the Show?

Fit in some trad: Positron, King Wad, Cave Route Right & Central Wall (Kilnsey) currently motivate me. Who's keen?

Priorities - re-assessment:
- Finger re-hab - stay on top of injuries and avoid Melancholie!
- Shoulder/elbow physio - shoulder is aching again. More thera-band sessions needed!
- Aero-power; continue to get pumped 2-3 times a week
- Continue with core and flexibility work
- Lose some weight; aim for <75kg (11st 10lb) 74.7kg and and 6.6% - though this might be dehydration after baking in sun on Saturday

The week just gone:

M - Rest
T - Was supposed to be going out, but more rest
W - Dinbren, 6b warm-up, then dogging Insomnia. Worked out all the moves in 1 session, and redpointed the first half (~7c). Need some minor beta tweaks to get the top in a oner?
T - Cave. Got shut down by LF san pocket again. Moved onto Broken Heart with knee bar beta. Ticked it 4th go, but tweaked ring finger on the ticking go (open handed, so think it's a flexor tendon strain?)
F - Rest - Cycled to work and back - 16miles ish
S - Late start at Cheedale. Very bad warm-up by getting straight on Sloe Gin. Also got scared with a few lose holds and skinny single rope. Smashed it in 1st RP though (use long slings to keep rope away from the blocks). 7a+ flash and E5 6b RP after in sun (annoyingly went wrong way on OS) Only 750ml water all day. First pint slipped down VERY easily!
S - Was supposed to be an Orme session, but G'friend had organised Wimbledon final BBQ so had quick Harmers Wood session for 45min and then enjoyed watching Murray win and getting tipsy. Didn't help at all with the dehydration!
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Exile:

Nice one on the quick 7a
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to maria85:

Great time for that course and those conditions. Big pat on the back.

And more importantly you cruised an E1. Brilliant.
Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Morning biscuit. Yeah, I've come round to your way of thinking for trad, backing off a hard (for me) lead isn't always a bad thing. Sometimes just having a fun day out is what counts.

STG: Ground Effect (7b) at Kilnsey, trad E1s and E2s, work on remembering sequences for RPs.
MTG: 7a flash or in a day or quick 7b RP in Spain.
LTG: lots of E2s, maybe look at E3, RP 7b+.

Mon: Flat 4 mile local trail run.
Tues: 20 barriers race, 5 miles.
Weds: Flat 4 mile local trail run.
Thurs: Kilnsey, top roped Ground Effect. Really struggled with the crux sequence I was trying and eventually gave it up as too reachy for me.
Fri: Gimmer, lead onsight Crystal (E1 5b) and alt leads Outside Tokyo/Dight (E1 5b).
Sat: 12 mile run, 1,013m ascent. Kentmere Horseshoe.
Sun: Kilnsey, reworking sequences again.

I'm struggling a bit with ground Effect. It's really hard! The crux sequence beta I was using for the 4th bolt was too reachy so I've had to rework it. And I've only managed to do the bottom bouldery move twice now. It could take me a while to get this one ticked...

Good day at Gimmer on Friday. As per biscuit's and my thinking I decided against an E2 lead and had a non stressful day instead.
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Is the 20 barriers race the one near Carnforth ? Sure i did that years ago when i lived there.

As for the trad i used to set myself targets. " I will lead an E3 this weekend." and such like. When we'd get to the crag and i'd look at the E3's and not fancy the style i would either try it and normally shit myself and back off or not try it and feel like a failure.

It felt a bit self defeating to push it in the same way you can with sport.

I ended up going for it on the days it felt right and that tended to end up in success or at least a happy failure.
maria85 - on 08 Jul 2013
Thanks all. Just got the results - 31st female of 142, 213th overall of 481.

That's combining the results with the marathon race competitors - there was a weird staggered start for the 'challenge' and 'race' meaning we started 2 hours earlier to increase cut-off times, course was the same. Maybe slightly unfair seeing as they had a hotter time of it. Of just the challenge version I was 9th female (of 92), 54th overall.
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Crap week from me.I've felt very tired and achy all week.Kind of like i had actually done some exercise the day before ad you feel a bit drained and empty. Some sort of left over of the virus i guess. It's also getting proper hot here now so adjusting to that as well. So i've not pushed it and rested. Feel good today though and will run this eve and get on the board.

Went on my board 4 times. Made progress on 4 sets of 2 min on 4.30 off. It's feeling hard now so that's good. Another couple of weeks of this i think before a break and some strength work.

Ran a total of about 10 miles out of planned 30.

This weeks targets:

Still stuck at home with no car ( hopefully buying new one this week ) and kids with no wife so no climbing for me.

Board x4 - complete 2m on 4.30 off with no laddering
Weighted pulls x2
Running:supposed to be 38 mile week this week. Lets see. No climbing so no excuses really.
Luke Owens - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to C Chestwig; Treacherous climber:

Effort on Broken Heart and Sloe Gin buddy!

Insomina will go very soon judging by how well you climbed the bottom section on Wednesday!

Orme was mega greasy yesterday so you didn't miss good conditions!
Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

yep, that's the race. It was a bit meh to be honest. I've only done 2 races before last week but both of those were fell races with steep hills and tea and cake/pasta after (the food being mostly why I enjoyed them!). The 20 barriers was more of a flatish trail run than fell run and no tea and cake after. No cake?? what's the point?!? At the Clougha Pike race I did there was a proper village fete going on with a big and well stocked WI cake stall. Bliss!

That's what I was doing with trad too - feeling like a failure for not geting on an E2. Can't push it every day out though so maybe one hard lead per month is a good target.

Sounds like you've had a so so week. Not too bad though considering your good ticks the week before .
Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to maria85:

9th female out of 92... nice one!!
Eagle River - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Sticky wicket is 7b not 7b+ but a really fun one if you're getting frustrated with ground effect.
Pagan - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

> I'm struggling a bit with ground Effect. It's really hard! The crux sequence beta I was using for the 4th bolt was too reachy so I've had to rework it.

Once you've got a sequence sorted, the move to the jug by the 4th bolt is ok - I get the big sidepull at the top, step my right foot through into the obvious big pocket then my left onto a smear out to its left. Right foot goes up to a big obvious hold and reach through with your right for the jug - catch it as far right as you can.

It's possible to clip the 4th bolt from below by getting an egyptian in - can't remember where exactly though but you should be able to get a sequence which makes this unnecessary anyway. The crux is definitely the start - the groove felt desperate for a while until I worked out the sequence above - I can do it pretty much every time now without too much trouble. Don't forget the no hands rest on the ledge below the groove!
Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Pagan:

The move to the jug is ok for me, I pretty much use the sequence you describe except maybe not using an obvious pocket for my right foot first.

The move I was struggling with was the move before that, to get to the right hand flat hold just right of the 4th bolt, below the jug. My new sequence is much easier than the reachy effort I was trying before so I think I've got it sorted now. And I think I'll be able to clip the bolt from below with my new sequence which is a bonus. It's just a bit annoying that it's taken me 4 sessions to get it sorted!

Not overjoyed at the prospect of the run out at the top either.
Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

Ah yes sorry you're right, 7b not 7b+. Anyway it's still a good effort for one session. I've top roped it before, I couldn't get a good sequence for the traversey bit before the final bolt and lower off. It's on my to do list.
pork pie girl - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

very quick update from me.. no time to read folks updates til later...
monday rest day

4x malham sessions.. pushed myself like crazy... lots of falls.. lots of work on endurance. bulge before rest ledge is now thw issue.. failing to clip the next bolt because i'm lacking confidence about my fitness at the point... so the approach will be balance of continuing to lead it..and working my endurance on the route to get the fitness i need

defo getting stronger.. last couple of sessions have been hard as it's been very warm but stuck with it. leading more sections and also managing moves on top wall that i wasn't strong enough to do a mointh ago.. which means i don't have to pull as hard on a mono

daily cardio.. all on bike.. mostly on road some on turbo

three core sessions

sarah is still sticking with me and malham.. no one else would.. i'm in it for the long haul with this route and if it wasn't for her i wouldn't be getting on it anywhere near as much as malham is very quiet as everyones at kilnsey!! she's getting loads stronger ... working 7b now

so i am planning on what present to buy her as a massive thank you... what do you get someone who has every bit of kit she needs?

belya glasses? or would that be pushing it???


back at malham tomorrow after work..

Nomics4sale - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

belay glasses? cheeky PPG, I think you need to take her on a weekend away NOT AT MALHAM!!
grubes - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: I sent you an e-mail about august but got a bounce back a few weeks ago. did you get it (forgot to mention it before)
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Fell races are ace for that aren't they.

My first ever one they chucked a can of beer at me as i ran through the finishing line - in a nice way we all got one for refuelling.

My 'target' for trad ended up being push it when it feels right. I actually got more done tbh than when i was pushing myself on purpose.It's all a mind game.
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to grubes:

and i forgot to get back to you, sorry. if it's still the BH weekend then i am still up for it yes.
heelhookofglory - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to grubes:

> Saying that I go[t] good friction friday night on the moors.

I won't ask ;)
heelhookofglory - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Awesome effort, congrats!
JayK - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

W-Dinbren. Got on Insomnia. Took a while to figure out the moves on the first go. Second go managed to climb through the bottom section (~7c) to the hard bit. Had another play on the hard bit. Moves are absolutely awesome but I reckon I need to spend a bit longer working out a more solid sequence at the top. Psyched for the hard stuff though.
T-2hours football
F-Traveled to London.
S-Mumford and Sons in London. Got pissed, sunbathed and listened to loads of good music.
S-Nothing. Traveled back and worked all evening.

Going to spend the next two weeks hammering a bit more training. Core and general fitness with a bit of campussing. Hopefully this will leave me in good shape for 6 weeks of summer fun. (Cue. the rain.)
grubes - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry:
I linked a video above if you really want to see :P
Luke Owens - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to JimmyKay: ]

Didn't realise that was you with Ally at the Bren on Wednesday dude, good to see you up there on the hard routes!
tmawer - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

what do you get someone who has every bit of kit she needs?

Spares! ;) X
biscuit - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

and a belay chair.
Exile - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit & Nomics4sale:

Thanks for the congratulations both.

Nomics - I'm not sure how far South you live but the crag might be worth a visit for you if you fancy something different. Two eminently doable 7a's. Just wait until it's cooler as it isn't dissimilar to quarried grit to climb and is south facing.

Interesting re trad - I'm feeling the same about E3s at the moment so have adopted a 'go for it when it feels right approach' too. get in having enjoyed the climbing I've done rather than berating myself for not climbing hard enough.
Sankey - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Been ticking over, highlight was getting another 7a at the weekend. Off to the S German Alps next week, a bit of a break from the Sport Climbing.

W:Bike 15 miles 1600 feet
T:Edge : circuits and up problems
S:Chilled weekend in sunny Norfolk

M: Road bike 15 miles 1600 feet
T: Matrix - up problems to 6b+
T: Mountain Bike 8 miles
S: Chapel Head Scar, working Shades of Medriocirty
S: RPed Shades after putting drawers in, Working Gilbert Cardigan (7a+, hard possibly)

STG: More 7a's (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): One more done: this years RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (3)

MTG: 7a+ Appetite/Direct Flight/Gilbert Cardigan (order of difficulty)

Exile - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Keendan - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to IainRUK:

Amazing Iain
leon on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Si dH:
I remember the foot hold but don't remember much about the sequence. Pretty sure I would have just rocked up on the foot hold & then found something else good. I think you must have missed a hold.

Must have been a monster fall if you fell on the upper crux.
leon on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Was trying to think. Was this by the small nut placement on the left after the big run out?
Si dH - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to leon:
Climbed initial groove to rest at about half height, placed a couple of good nuts, moved up and right a move or two, placed small cam in a sidepull pocket, moved up.to a long reach (crux?) off a sidepull to some holds next to a big slopey nothing thing, moved on to some crimpy sidepulls immediately above, but below the continuatuon crack (looked like there was a small nut in one but too pumped to.place), got a left foot up and tried to.rock.over but.could get in balance or find anything good for hands. Think it was partly panic and just not finding the right body position. Fell about 20-25 feet The cam held, which was a nice confidence boost.
Si dH - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Ps to clarify the sidepulls I was on both were both left facing, but the holds I could see in the continuation crack above were small and right facing, hence hard to get on to properly.
Kevster - on 08 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Thanks biscuit,

Not much to report,

Climbed indoor once, failed to finger board. Stag do at the weekend - it was fun mind. Feeling fatter than I have been for ages. Work is still silly.

On the plus, climbing the next 2/3 weekends outside at some point. I'm all excited over the 70m half ropes I just bought. The megalong pitches can start! wintours leap, hoy, lundy..... game on!
And I may even make shapnose too.
leon on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to Si dH:
When I got to that point I managed to get a shake out using the side pull & matching feet as I switched hands. I got a #5 rp in the crack on the left (remember wishing I had a rock 1). I don't remember exactly what I did (foot on relatively high slopey hold & use side-pull to stand-up & reach for an OK hold I think) but the moves above that nut are definately no harder than 5a. I am sure if you get back on it in better conditions you would breeze that section.

I seconded Mad Dogs yesterday, remember your write-up on it. Respect for onsighting the crux, I thought it was well worth 6a & was sustained throughout.
leon on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:
STG: Keep getting on e2/e3 routes.
MTG: 17(4) e-points in July
LTG(2013): 7a+*1, 7a*4. 34e points(24 to date).
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 0(1)
Focus: PE(3/2)
Key weaknesses: Spotting sequences. FoF. Committing to blind moves.

Mon: Smalldale(max 6b+).
Tue: Core. Shoulders & Arms(Weights).
Wed: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
Thu: Core. Push-ups & Pull-ups.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Pavey Ark(2 epoints).
Sun: Dow Cragg(2 epoints).

Intended to try onsighting 6c on Monday. Got on a 6b then 6b+ then tried a 6c only to find out Alex had put me on a 6a+, karma for putting me on a 6c the previous week and telling me it was 6a+....

Good 3 days of training, could easily have done nothing.

Great weekend. Intended trying Cruel Sister @ Pavey but the first pitch was wet. The obvious alternatives at hand seemed to be Arcturus followed by Capella, finished off with Golden Slipper. All amazing routes. Didn't get much sleep Saturday night so switched my first lead @ Dow from Tarkus to Leopards Crawl, which failed to convince me I was upto much. Was pretty much prepared to call it a day or finish off on a VS when Nick convinced me to get on my target route, Pink Panther ("Nothing like a kick in the Gonad's to wake you up" I believe were the words of encouragement). The climbing was amazing from the moment I left the ground. Got through the crux & couldn't find a good hold, my mind is straight back to running out of holds on Two Sunspots, I'm going for a flyer.... found the thank god hold & just enjoyed the whole experience to the top.

A good week, shame about Cruel Sister but it'll wait until my week in the lakes at the end of July.
useful on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: Indeed, especially in that weather! :D

This week is a bit light on the climbing:
Tu: raining, so went to Awesome walls Liverpool. Aim: SPEED CLIMBING!
4+TR, 5+TR (no gap), 6a L, 6a+ 2falls (got cocky!), 6b DNF (pumped from SPEED CLIMBING!)- time to calm down into normal mode, 6aL, 6c/6bDNF 3f, 6a L
Felt like the grades were hard indoors! I think I need to sport climb at least once a month... Maybe next week!

The rest of the week was mainly driving, although I did go camping with mini-me at Pembroke, walked her to Bulls Laughter Bay (we decided it was called), chivvied her up the scramble, then back. Sunday was largely a day driving and laying on the beach (which I detest).

This week looks more promising already: to follow!
Oh, and I'm booked in to do my ML Training at the beginning of August. Not specifically climbing, but a first step on the bottom rung of the ladder...
heelhookofglory - on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to grubes:

Nice 'lil vid!
useful on 09 Jul 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Well done on accepting success :D
Hayfever's a complete bummer, isn't it? I don't think non-sufferers realise how an unexpected high pollen day can leave you feeling completely fatigued: like a day without coffee for caffeine addicts! We're expected to dose up and carry on. Although I've managed to bypass it largely by closing windows and gratuitous use of Cetirizine...

mrchewy - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to useful: Sounds much like my coping mechanisms but it does seem to be easing the last couple of days... mind you, that may be it just getting me to lower my guard.
grubes - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to stevemarkperry:
pork pie girl - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: we have a couple of sun wilkos loungers... i'll beef one up with some pillows and make it look right fanciful .. that'll do ;o) problem is if she sits up it folds in half which will play havoc with her belaying and could result in a domestic.
pork pie girl - on 10 Jul 2013
In reply to tmawer: she has requested another down jacket.. which will mean she feels the need to have a fifth one.

get to malham mr mawer!! space race has your name on it. and you can use our belayer lounger

hope cham went well xx
Si dH - on 11 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:
Hi all, bit late in the day but do any of the usual kilnsey crowd (or anyone else) need a belay on saturday? Im in te area with no plans an not been before, would be keen to try any of the 7bs.
mbh - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

I don't know. I have done a lot of running by now, although I will never be as fast or do as much as Iain. I have been upping the mileage gradually from 20 per week a year ago to 50-55 now, while going swimming a couple of times a week too, at least until the last few weeks. The thing with this level of mileage is that you have to pretty much do at least 7 miles a day, 6 or 7 times a week, at least if you don't feel like doing really long runs at the weekend. I think it is that relentlessness that is taking some getting used to, but which I hope will itself bring rewards, as I become attuned to it. I get variety by changing routes all the time, switching between hills, flat, road, trail, footpaths etc. It is easier to do that in the summer.

I think work has a lot to do with it. It has been very heavy recently, and that affects my sleep, which makes me tired.
biscuit - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh:

I am only just starting to remember what a grind it is. I should get 35 miles this week and it is as you say relentless.

1 long run of 13 miles and 4 others of 5-7 miles. Really didn't want to do it this morning but managed to get out.

It'll be worth it. If it's still feeling relentless i would suggest you're still adjusting. Once it feels 'normal' then add to it - if you can.

Not many can have the drive and desire to do what Iain does - that's why he's team GB.
biscuit - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Is anyone pencilled in to do the stats this week ?

I can if no-one else wants to. I'm still stuck at home living my live vicariously through the internet.
grubes - on 12 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:
> (In reply to biscuit)
> I can if no-one else wants to. I'm still stuck at home looking after the kids in between runs and board sessions training hard

Fixed that for you
biscuit - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to grubes:

Ha ha cheers.

I reckon i spend more time typing than training though ;-)

If i don't hear anything by tonight i'll crack on and do it.
grubes - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit: think matt was many to be doing it all July
mattrm - on 13 Jul 2013
In reply to biscuit:

biscuit - if you've already started doing it then, I'll leave it to you. I've just got to my PC and was going to do the stats this evening.

I'll be on the PC first thing tomorrow, so can sort things out tomorrow if you don't post up.
NMN - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh:

The mileage Iain does is incredible, but I think consistently banging out 50-55 mile weeks is really good going.
And is there normally about 4,000ft of ascent in that?

Did you mention the possibility of a bob graham in an early post?
Supposedly, a general rule of thumb is 10,000ft ascent per week for about 4 months to get fit for BG.
I'm guessing but the effort you are doing could probably equate to about 30 to 40 miles per week and 10,000ft ascent if you changed to more hills less miles?
mbh - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to NMN:

Thanks. 56 miles this week Yes, since the mileage passed 50, I've been doing 1200 m or so ascent each week, which is about 4000 feet (sorry, but I've got used to mixing my units!). It isn't planned, particularly, but ends up being about that.

I have thought of attempting the BG, probably next spring or summer, it being too late this summer. No?

10,000 feet ascent a week, or 3000m, at say 40 miles per week distance divided by seven runs (say) would mean 300-500 m ascent in runs of 6 or 7 miles. It is hilly around here, but not that hilly that I can get that much ascent in easily. I have just come back from a 16 miler that had not quite 400 m ascent in it and went from sea level up onto the highest hill around and down again, then on to a few others. That felt hard. Also, the mind is weak sometimes and there is an inviting railway track nearby always trying to tempt me away from all those hills. Hmmm.

On your last point, I am still not sure how to match up ascent with distance. How much ascent equates to how much extra distance in terms of effort, energy expended etc? Do you know of a good academic source on this? There are so many factors to do with steepness, terrain, gait and metabolic processes, I suppose, that I doubt an easy single factor can be applied, but to have a rough idea would be good. I have the times, ascent and distance for several hundred runs I have done over the last few years, and might now fiddle with the in some pseudo-statistical way to see if i can tease out an ascent:distance factor, but I would have to taker account too of my weight, fitness and attitude at the time, so this effort is probably doomed to failure.

Your suggestion of dropping 10-25 miles a week and to add in an additional 6000 feet a week ascent would mean an ascent/distance ratio in the range 10-20 : 1 (ie 1 unit of ascent equates in effort to between 10 and 20 units of horizontal distance) if that were to be an equivalent effort. That sounds about right, from all that I have read, none of which is necessarily reliable, mind!
biscuit - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh:

Just run up as many hills as you can.

That's science that is ;-)
NMN - on 14 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh:
> (In reply to NMN)

> I have thought of attempting the BG, probably next spring or summer, it being too late this summer. No?

> On your last point, I am still not sure how to match up ascent with distance. How much ascent equates to how much extra distance in terms of effort, energy expended etc? Do you know of a good academic source on this?

Brilliant, a great challenge to work towards.
My only experience of the BG is a leg 3 recce and then the support of a mate on leg 3.
I guess it depends how you would want to do it, how many recces you want to do, how much support you can get / want, how knowlegeable and experienced they are of the route etc, but it would seem sensible to work towards next year now and not rush it, get as much recce done as possible.
I would think that with a 23 - 24 hour schedule the more planning / knowledge the better.

I don't know any good source re ascent v distance.
As you say, there are so many factors involved.

I'm sure I remember IainR saying once that as a rough guide he uses 1 mile for every 1000ft.
A quick comparison of two of my weeks with virtually identical time spent running, shows 16m & 6146ft vs 24m and 2139ft - which equates to 2m for every 1000ft.
I don't know if it affects it but my hilly weeks tend to involve very steep hills, 900ft in 0.7m to the top (so 1.4m to get up and down).

mbh - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to NMN:

I live so far away that my recce-ing of the BG is likely to consist of OS maps, aerial photos and failed attempt(s).

But, I am probably thinking of the BG much as many people think of climbing Everest, or, closer to hone, Cenotaph Corner. I've heard of it. There may also be other very worthwhile things to do....

Someone on next week's thread, which seems a weird thing to say, has mentioned the Joss Naylor route, which, when I look it up, is described as the BG for Oldies. I qualify. Just. Have you done that? How hard, do you think, is the 12 hour time limit for 50-55 year olds?

Good luck on the Snowdon Race, btw.
Banned User 77 - on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh: The great thing about the BGR is loads know it.. so pacers are no issue.. so just once or twice around the route is enough.. Also do a few legs as support.. that provides you with ideas about the logistics involved.

As a rough rule I do use the 1000ft = mile..

the general guideline as said is 10,000ft a mile.. lots of long hill walking days.. slow running. Its only 3 miles an hour.. just continuous.
useful on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh:
> sorry, but I've got used to mixing my units!

Remember kids: drink responsibly! :o ;)
useful on 15 Jul 2013
In reply to mrchewy: Yep, it seemed to be just one very bad day about a fortnight ago. Maybe the plants had all been saving up their pollen during the cold weather; now they've all shot their load, so to speak!
NMN - on 16 Jul 2013
In reply to mbh:


Didn't really know exactly what Joss Naylor challenge involved - does look good.
A little bit like to the BG as the tranter's round is to the ramsay round.
I'd like to do a BG one day, but not sure when I'll be able to commit to training up for it.

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