UKC

VIDEO: Matt Cousins Highball/Solos Chimaera,

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 UKC News 23 Jul 2013
Matt Cousins on Chimaera 7a High Rocks , 3 kbMatt Cousins has just made a bold highball/solo ascent of what is regarded as 'the hardest route on Southern Sandstone', Chimaera which is given a grade of UK 7a. All ascents before Matt's utilised the use of a top-rope, in line with the ethics on Southern Sandstone that routes are either top-roped or soloed, due to the delicate nature of the rock. Matt climbed the line above a stack of pads having previously climbed it on a top-rope...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68229
In reply to UKC News:

Wow, that footage from the side is much better. Makes it look much sketchier, too.

jcm
 Fraser 23 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Very slick! Watched the "side show" first, not realising how higball it is, then the main video. Very impressive!
 Guy Atkinson 23 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Epic, bloody brave ascent! well done Matt, I didn't think anybody would ever have the nads to solo it.
 Fishmate 23 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Congrats Matt, that was simply amazing. My hat is doffed.
 dickie01 24 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Good news well done Matt.
Just to add one more to the repeat list I believe Barny Ventham did it a few days ago on top rope
 Oliver Hill 24 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News: Well done, Matt. Great to see you climb this route and show how climbing standards have risen, how one unconsciously relies on ones feet and controls movement, fast and slow. I am glad you had lots of mats, apart from movement,climbing is about the fear of dying whilst protecting oneself from actually doing so.Otherwise no more climbing.
Dave Turner 25 years ago was amazing, too.
 Skyfall 24 Jul 2013
Is he on speed or something? lol - superb !
 Fishmate 24 Jul 2013
In reply to Oliver Hill: Hi Oliver, we now have one solo, any idea how many TR ascents there have been? I wasn't aware of Barnaby Ventham ticking Chimaera, so wondered if there were more unacknowledged ascents.

I had a brief exchange with Dave Turner on UKC after Jon Partidge's effort. Being an SS climber it was like chatting with Usain Bolt

The general vibe says it will be a good year on SS. It's all that enforced labour at the wall over winter.
In reply to Fishmate: Took Ned about 3 attempts about a year and a half ago
Removed User 24 Jul 2013
In reply to UKC News:
As far as I know it has had 7 confirmed ascents and maybe a couple of others as well:
Dave Turner
James Pearson
Tony Musslebrook
Jon Partridge
Matt Cousins
Tom Gore
Barnaby Ventham

I have a feeling as well that Liam Halsey has also climbed it. I know that Liam has also been eyeing up soloing Second Generation which would also be very impressive!
Johnny Dawes was known to have attempted it and apparently climbed the top section (the crux) clean but never done it from the ground. I remember hearing that he looked at the line to the right as well claiming that it would be at least English 7b/c... I don't think its a goer though!

Matts ascent has definitely shown that the sandstone still has a lot to give and if the dry weather continues then I think this summer will be one to remember. There are still plenty of unrepeated lines on the sandstone as well as many that have not yet had the solo ticked!

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