UKC

Pegs for the dolomites?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 CurlyStevo 05 Aug 2013
Hi,
I have just received the western dolomites guides and I see it advises that pegs should be carried on many of the routes. Did other people also find this to be the case?

Cheers,
Stevo
 Mike-W-99 05 Aug 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I've never bothered with pegs there although I've not done the smattering of routes in those guides where the author recommends them. I'm sure you'll find plenty to do without them.

If you are that bothered then check with the local guides office once you are out there.
 cem 05 Aug 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: No
 The Ivanator 05 Aug 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: Stuff we did last summer in Sella Pass area was all fine without pegs, if you go for some more esoteric lines at your limit you might appreciate a few though. If you have micros and micro cams the times when you will find stuff unprotectable will be few and far between.
Popular routes have ample in situ pegs, often in addition to good natural gear.
OP CurlyStevo 05 Aug 2013
In reply to Mike_Watson_99:
> (In reply to CurlyStevo)
" although I've not done the smattering of routes in those guides where the author recommends them. "

I would say in the second "Mid grade trad rock Western Dolomites" guide approx 2/3 of the routes carrying pegs is recommended. In the first closer to 1/3 or so.
OP CurlyStevo 08 Aug 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

bump

Has anyone taken pegs and found them essential?
 jimtitt 08 Aug 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

On the trade routes never needed to take or use them, failing on an obscure route with a rope too short to ab back down and retreating down the other side into the snow I wished I hadn´t left them in the car!
If you do take some then knife-blades seem to be the ones needed, the rest you can cover with a normal rack.
OP CurlyStevo 08 Aug 2013
In reply to jimtitt:
I have a size 2 camp slider nut and a size 3 zero friend and a good selection of micro nuts which should help and I think we'll mostly be on the trade routes.

I wouldn't want to carry a big heavy peg hammer although I guess I could bash in an emergency knife blade with a normal hammer if needed. Hmmmmm probably won't bother I guess.
OP CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2013
In reply to jimtitt:
I found the small cams and ballnut to be very useful and micro nuts quite useful but less so. We didn't carry pegs. Tricams (pink red and one or two larger) also pretty useful. If I went again I'd buy the smallest ballnut also, I'm not sure I'd carry pegs as most the rock seems to take some of the above gear.
 LucaC 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: We didn't bother even considering pegs. Everything popular has loads on the harder sections. A pair of Italians from the Bolzano Alpine Club followed us up a route on the grande falzarego tower pegging the bejesus out of it, we had nuts, cams, and a lot more fun than they seemed to have.
OP CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2013
In reply to LJC:
yes the majority of placements were the usual nut cams and hexes (with preplaced pegs of varying trust worthyness). The other stuff I mention would normally fill the gaps where pegs would be needed IMO.

I saw an Italian taking pegs and a hammer up cassin route on Piz Badile, he said he always carried them on Alpine routes, each to their own I guess.
 LucaC 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: We didn't consider them there either. Damn contenentials and their wonton rape of pristine rock etc... (tongue in cheek).
 David Barlow 02 Sep 2013
I agree with the above. However take quite a lot of slings because some routes have a lot of threads.
OP CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2013
In reply to David Barlow:
Yeah we took quite a lot of slings (we have returned now). These ones I though were very good ( http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Slings-Extend... ), but you also want some skinny dyneema ones.
 beardy mike 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: never needed to place a peg in 13 years of climbing there, either summer or winter. If you're doing some out of the way megadeath chop route, then maybe but other than that id not bother...
OP CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2013
In reply to mike kann:
I must say I really liked the Sella area and so much more to explore! I'll be going back to the Dolomites at some stage.
 Null 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> advises that pegs should be carried on many of the routes.

In some Dolomite areas they are generally not required. In others, often yes. This is partly because Dolomite rock is very variable, sometimes like a Swiss cheese with rock threads, sometimes more crystalline and compact. Also, some of the Dolomites are not "Dolomite" at all, but limestone, which is much more compact and often pegs are the only option. Examples include the Marmolada S. face, and on Cima Ghez and Croz dell'Altissimo in the Brenta: on the latter two (huge walls) you would be daft not to take pegs. The whole of the Sarca valley (some of the biggest walls in the Dolomites) is limestone and apart from the well known popular routes (and bolted routes, obviously) you are well advised to carry a handful of pegs and at least one hammer.

Not the sort of binary answer you perhaps hoped for: you will need to get specific up to date info for each route (and not get lost), or carry some just in case.

My own experience with pegs is classic Murphy's law: sometimes you take them but almost never use them; sometimes you don't take them and end up in a high and lonely place with nothing but a knife-blade crack in front of your nose, or you get lost descending in darkness or storm and end up abandoning expensive cams for the lack of a kingpin and a hammer. One friend recently vowed that from now on he would always carry some, regardless. From the look in his eye, this was clearly an "experiential" decision.

A couple of "ideas": if your route requires taking an axe, you might consider a light ice hammer instead, giving you peg potential (good old Roger Payne used to assure me you could always smash them in with your axe - I did try once, but intend to avoid it in future). Second idea: a lot of peg hammers are (rightly) real heavy pigs. I found a very lightweight Cassin hammer that requires a bit of sweat and fury to function but does the job in those occasional peg panic moments.

Oh yes, and you need to know how to place them properly, too (not quite as simple as folk sometimes think). You could get some practice at your local crags in the UK before coming over.
 beardy mike 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: when you do, remember me. I'm in the process of setting up a holiday let...
OP CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2013
In reply to Erstwhile:
Well as mentioned I've returned now. But thanks for the input anyways. Its interesting to get another view point.

I've placed a fair few pegs in my time using an ice axe hammer.

Have you used ballnuts? they will go in to quite a few place pegs will ( and some they wont)

As a sub point I didn't realise Dolomite wasn't limestone until you pointed it out, I guess I did wonder why it looked a bit different.
 beardy mike 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: it is limestone, just not calcarious limestone. Its had its cical formula changed... Cant remember how exactly but it has magnesium instead of sommit else...
 Null 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Erstwhile)

> Have you used ballnuts? they will go in to quite a few place pegs will ( and some they wont)
>

Don't own any but a local friend has a couple so I have taken them out.

The thing that amazes me here is how few runners the local climbers place, even when there are potential placements. I asked the owner of the ballnuts the other day how he could deal with constantly being ten (twenty!) metres above his last runner on really sustained hard climbing. He looked a bit sheepish and replied, "You're right, I should probaly place more. My wife always tells me off about it." Now my wife certainly isn't slow to tell me off (she's Italian, too) but never for not placing enough runners.

OP CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2013
In reply to mike kann:
Bit more info here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolomite
OP CurlyStevo 02 Sep 2013
In reply to mike kann:
> (In reply to CurlyStevo) it is limestone, just not calcarious limestone. Its had its cical formula changed... Cant remember how exactly but it has magnesium instead of sommit else...

as far as I can tell dolomite rock ot dolostone isnt limestone. That said limestone with some dolomite is called dolomitic limestone.

http://geology.com/rocks/dolomite.shtml
 beardy mike 02 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo: ha... Thats really interesting... Definitely used to be limestone but didn't realise the people dont classify it a lime...
 Null 03 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:

> as far as I can tell dolomite rock ot dolostone isnt limestone. That said limestone with some dolomite is called dolomitic limestone.

Just an issue of terminology - limestone and Dolomite (and all the in between grades of the two) are the outcome of the same process in different environmental contexts (like making pizza on the Mediterranean coast or in the Alps - you can taste the difference).

The results from our perspective are very significant. Dolomite is characteristically full of holes and features while limestone tends to be smooth. Dolomite is significantly stronger and more reliable with better runners. Dolomite forms boulders whle limestone only rarely does. Dolomite is rougher and polishes more slowly. Dolomite is orange, and the more orange it is the better it is. Limestone is good if blue/grey, so so if white to yellow, and often bad if orange. So in our area orange rock can mean two opposite things.



 bridget143 17 Sep 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
I know you're back now but in case someone else is ready this another time - I can place a vote for tricams, brilliant in Dolomitic rock. We didn't take pegs but wished we had on one desent in a storm, really glad we had a few maillons and spare cord to re-do some of the abseils though.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...