UKC

Hi all. I am going to the roaches tomorrow and it will be my first time on grit. Should I be wetting myself with excitement. Cause I am.
I am a confidant vs leader that is ticking off hvs/e1. And just head pointed an e2. Limestone climber. What would be a good grade to aim for on a first visit to the magic grit.
Thanks Luke.

In reply to luke glaister:

If you're a confident VS leader than start with a couple of VSs and take it from there.

In reply to luke glaister:

You'd be an idiot to jump on something at your highest OS grade straight off, but I predict by mid morning you will have worked up to VS/HVS and by the time you leave you wont be interested in slime stone any more

In reply to luke glaister:

Ha! You've done NOTHING!

....yet

In reply to luke glaister:
Grit/sandstone routes often either jam-based or smear-based, rather than having identifiable handholds. I do like jams, but even I tend to start with a lower-grade warmup when I have been climbing on other sorts of rock. But the friction on grit is excellent, even in the rain, which you'll like, having been mostly climbing on glass.

In reply to luke glaister:

Go to Stanage....it's infinitely better.

In reply to andic: Hahaha every one I talk to says that.

In reply to hedgepig: Thanks for your time. You've made me more excited now tho. Roll on tomorrow.

In reply to luke glaister:
Warm-up on Black and Tans, Holybush crack and Technical Slab. Then go to Lower tier and get on Kestrel Crack and if you are feeling good then go and wet yourself on Valkyrie !

In reply to The Pylon King: yeh. I was hoping to go to stanage for my first go on grit. But me and my regular climbing partner are going with someone else who knows the area. Are see how we get on and if its like I hope. Were have a look at stanage. Both crags will have to go some to beat my local wye Valley mind.

In reply to luke glaister: Better be quick, before it's all bolted up.

In reply to chris fox: just had a look at your tick list. What a day out that would be. Cheers.

In reply to FreshSlate: bolts are the devil.... But . If I see one and I'm in poo lane. I always clip it.

In reply to The Pylon King:

I have pondered the question of which is best, Stanage or The Roaches, for several years. The conclusion I have come to is that The Roaches has the best routes (The Sloth and Elegy are top of their respective classes), but Stanage has a bigger volume of great routes. Stanage has more hidden gems and world-class boulder problems but the hidden gems at The Roaches are really very special (Finger of Fate, The Cube, Swivel Finger).

I also consider the whole ridge from Hen Cloud to Black Forest as The Roaches (seems fair) which means that the number of utterly brilliant routes and charming little midget-gems is very considerable.

I would always defend Stanage in a grit off (especially compared to some laughable Yorkshire competitor) but The Roaches gives it a serious for its money. It is certainly not 'infinitely better'.

In reply to luke glaister:

The last couple of evenings have had wonderful conditions on the grit too, in Yorkshire and Stanage at least. A cool breeze makes a huge difference, humidity and a lack of breeze (= midges) make grit repulsive.

I think the two route types that typify grit are

- The Torrid Struggle

Something like The Mincer would show you what this is all about. It's a complete sandbag, it's incredibly hard (most E2s on a sensible crag are easier), and to make matters worse, it has a hard unprotected boulder problem start. An all round c**t of a route, for which of course you can "thank" Brown and Whillans. Saul's Crack is a slightly less horrible suggestion, but it's still pretty unpleasant, especially now its polished. Thug-a-ug-ug.

- The Buzz of Boldness

An ascent of Dorothy's Dilemma will show you the other side of the coin. Apparently it's only just E1 (HVS some say), but that doesn't mean you can fall off. It does have a solid runner, but if you fall off the crux, you'll probably still end up in hospital. There aren't any holds on the crux, so just make sure your feet stick as you layback the arete - and don't start shaking, that won't help.

The Sloth is of course the 'must do' route. And while it's unbeleivably scary for HVS, it's not actually hard or dangerous. Which makes a change.

Am I selling this to you?

In reply to Jon Stewart: Good morning. Were just leaving sunny Hereford and yes, so far I'm sold..... should be a cracker.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

He's either got nerves of steel or he's not read your post properly

In reply to luke glaister:

I hope I.m not too late to direct OP towards the mincer and bachelors left hand for 3* hvs pleasure

In reply to luke glaister: well. Your all be pleased to know I'm safe and well... what an eye opener the grit is. So good tho ive been missing out big time. This slime stone climber cant wait to go back. Inspiring stuff. Thanks roaches.