In reply to Andy Nisbet:
> Most of those crags had trad climbs on them before they were bolted, and now you say you don't mind about them. Why just Farletter?
While it seems a bit nitpicky to go through crag-by-crag, the whole case-by-case concept is very relevant as most Scottish sport crags don't follow the MCofS rules. So...
Goat Crag - trad routes are still present and not retroed.
Creag Nan Luch - not aware of any prior trad routes
Creag Nan Cadhag - not aware of any prior trad routes
Moy Rock - only previous trad route was an E3 5b death chimney which has been left intact!
Creag An Amalaidh - not aware of any prior trad routes or climbing at all
The Camel - certain of no prior trad routes, mentioned as unclimbed in HO.
The Keel - certain of no prior trad routes
Red Wall Quarry - certain of no prior trad routes apart from E1 corner that is not retroed.
Boltsheugh - trad routes still present, caused heated debate at the time, resulting in, AFAIK, no retro-bolting in Aberdeen area.
The Elephant - not aware of any prior trad routes
Arbroath - not aware of any prior trad routes
Rob's Reed - not aware of any prior trad routes
Kirrie Hill - not aware of any prior trad routes
Legaston - some trad routes, easy E1 5b crack was retroed and this is definitely wrong.
Ley - not aware of any prior trad routes
Balmashanner - not aware of any prior trad routes
Glen Ogle - trad routes are still intact and not retroed (Poison Ivy a great route)
Rockdust - not aware of any prior trad routes
Weem - trad routes are mostly still intact apart from a retroed E3 on Aerial Crag. Obvious cracks should be left alone.
Dunkeld - trad routes still intact and bolts have not spread from Marlena wall even onto the less popular trad routes.
Benny Beg - no idea.
Strathyre - not aware of any prior trad routes, none mentioned in HO.
Dunglas - the few west face trad lines were retro-bolted, snappy rock may justify this
Ardvorlich - previous bold peg routes retro-bolted.
Dumbarton - routes still intact and bolts have not spread from sport climbs even onto the less popular trad routes.
North Berwick Law - not aware of any prior trad routes, post-sport development has included plenty of trad.
It seems that most of the places I have visited either had no trad routes listed in the previous guidebooks (so any trad development was not made public for people to actually climb) OR have trad and sport side-by-side without trad climbs being retro-bolted. A few crags do have retro-bolting, occasionally with obvious reason, and at least one crag has provoked controversy and a much-needed bolt debate (that seemed to set up the area for sensitive sport development without retro-bolting).
As for Farrletter, should it be part of the seeming minority of Scottish sport venues that have been developed by full retro-bolting of established and published trad routes?? Before I was tending towards supporting that, for reasons of dangerous routes, areas of wall lacking in good trad LINES (under the assumption that the LINES would be left as trad), and functionality in a mostly trad area.
BUT, having seen the uncontested and un-fore-warned Ratho retro-bolting, and some of the responses to that, it has made me a lot more aware of the increasing problems of succumbing to pressure and retro-bolting routes. As I mentioned elsewhere, I wasn't so convinced by the "thin end of the wedge" argument before (and some developments, like Inverness conglomerate, were showing bolters sensibly keeping the wedge away from trad venues), but now I am. So Farrletter is relevant as a showcase, as much as a venue in it's own right (pretty much as Boltsheugh must have been). If there is a choice between retro-bolting stopping BEFORE Farrletter AND Ratho retroing AND whatever the bolters are planning next without warning the community....OR stopping AFTER Farrletter and Ratho and wherever, I would very strongly suggest the former.
And an ideal world, if you can get the Ratho trad routes de-bolted and reinstated, and a promise that they won't be ruined again, and that bolters will give a lot more warning, consultation AND try other options to restore neglected routes before retro-bolting in general, then I would probably support selective retro-bolting of Farrletter, subject to the wedge pausing there.