UKC

Moorland Bouldering

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 rocksol 14 Aug 2013
Re: New Bouldering Guide
Years ago Chris Gibb proposed a simple bouldering grading system; hard if you couln,t do it and not hard if you could!
I know I,m a grumpy old man, but surely it,s not necessary to extend obsessive problem ticking to the last few remaining unspoiled areas of Peak District grit; Grinah Stones, Woolpacks, Derwent Edge etc, along with associated noise, rubbish and "I,ll show you how to do this problem if you like" comments.
I know alot of these venues are too far away from the road for a good proportion of boulders to venture without a map, [if they could read it], G.P.S. system and full hazard analysis, but I once bumped into Ben Moon at Scafell East Buttress, so you never know!
 Ramblin dave 14 Aug 2013
In reply to rocksol:
> Re: New Bouldering Guide
> Woolpacks

Sorry, that horse has bolted:
http://su-web2.nottingham.ac.uk/~pineappl/pmwiki2/pmwiki.php?n=Main.Pineapp...

There are graded lists and everything:
http://su-web2.nottingham.ac.uk/~pineappl/pmwiki2/pmwiki.php?n=Main.Grading...
In reply to rocksol: I completely agree with you regarding places like Grinah Stones and Woolpacks. I wrote to Alan James some months ago expressing my concerns over his plans to include these places. I suggested covering them in the same way I did in "Over the Moors"...in otherwords, tell people they are there, but allow them to discover the problems on their own and maintain the spirit of these places. There's a large number of people that agrees wholeheartedly with this view. I have no idea what Rockfax's final decision is.
 victorclimber 14 Aug 2013
In reply to rocksol: grumpy old man then that makes 2 of us its pathetic ,but heh people are making money out of these guides etc ,can always remember in the old Climber and Rambler one of the guide gurus doing articles on remote Grit crags and then telling you not to let everyone know about them !!!
 Offwidth 14 Aug 2013
In reply to Ramblin dave:

Those links are just pinnacle ticks. Even so I still wish they would remove this list as the increase in damage on these pinnacles is noticable.

Its plain daft Rockfax considering giving the main Woolpacks bouldering grades as the rock isn't good enough to make the problems pleasant or robust. Also any damage or chalk mess is right next to a main path and other people enjoying the moorland are almost certainly going to make a fuss. As for some of the other remote wild areas like Grinah Stones, why not let them remain this way with a few words and a grid ref at the very most?

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