In reply to Olli-C:
You are reading too much into the focus on redpointing. His main point is this:
> Most think sport climbing is all about biceps and gains in finger strength, and while that’s true up to a point, it’s has never been the reason anyone has ever crossed the finish line on a meaningful (hard) redpoint. It always comes down to nakedly facing the things about your nature that hold you back and finding the means needed to temporarily overcome them. Yes, learn the moves, get strong enough to do them, become fit enough to link them. But then, the real challenge, the real reason to be a sport climber, is to go through the painstaking process of untying all your debilitating mental knots.
> But when you do cross that line, you feel true freedom that comes from understanding there is no such thing as impossible. The route that once felt hard, now on the redpoint feels uncannily easy. In that moment, your limits expand and explode further away from you. And what choice do you now have but to continue chasing that elusive periphery?
Which he is totally right about, which is why the popular distinction between sport as 'physical' and trad as 'mental' misses the point.
You could also write the article around the difference between sport style onsighting, which is about attempting routes so close to your limit you are coping with the mental weight of failing on 95% of attempts, for the 5% of times when you pull it out of the bag - as totally distinct from 'bolt clipping' which is mostly choosing routes within your limit so the risk of failure is minimal.