The Finnish climbing website Slouppi has just reported the first 8a trad route climbed by a Finnish woman; Anu Korosuo climbed Mustang in Cadarese, Italy. The route looks absolutely superb in the photo of her on it http://www.haukkari.net/2013/08/roadtripping-back-in-cadarese.html I can't remember exactly, but I guess it's only about a decade since the first Finn woman climbed 8a sport.
Anyway - I was racking my brains trying to work out how many British women have done trad routes that are 8a or harder? Ms. Findlay's fine ascents just about everywhere most obviously - but how far back does it go? I don't know the french grade equivalents of the hard North Wales routes that Glenda Huxter was doing in the 90s or the Pembroke routes that Fliss Butler had done before that? Would any of them be 8a? And I'm sure there have been some ascents I forgotten about - trad Yorkshire limestone maybe?
Anyway, congrats to Anu - not only a brick hard route buts such a beautiful looking one too! Cobra Crack next?
In reply to mattrm: I remembered she had done it just before Karin Magog, but maybe the South Africans get to claim that one? I guess some of Ms. Ciavaldini's Pembroke exploits must be 8a and harder, but I don't think us Brits can "borrow" them either.
Bleed in Hell is not 8b in a million years. A great route, but more like hard 8a.
To others: Cadarese is an amazing place. One of the best for crack climbing in Europe. The Mustang route isn't quite as cool as it looks in photos (for some reason one that photographs better than it looks in real life!) but there are other stunners such as The Doors, Grazie Riky & Turkey Crack for those looking to 8a and above.
I would imagine Toy Boy if converted to sport grade must get close to 8a, which Katy W did. But maybe you can't do that if it's now a highball....?
> Is that the hard one on Great Slab at Froggatt? Does it even have any gear?
Dan Varian seems to think it's a boulder problem http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=45427 although says its very morpho, although I don't know if in a way that would make it harder or easier for Katy - probably the former as height rarely seems to hurt!
Does this mean then she has to come off the list? And are there really no more? Surely there are some dark horses or granite experts who have done it in Yosemite or somewhere like that?
And another list-making aside - was Requiem the UK's first 8a-or-harder (IIRC it's 8a+) trad route in 1983?
> Your list your rules. Do you include things like Parisellas or Tor traverses that are 8a or above route grade as well? That might boost your numbers.
No, I was really just interested in trad routes, obviously a good handful of Brit women have climbed sport 8a. More just trying to see Ms. Korosuo's ascent in context. I know a fair number of the top US women will have done 8a trad, and we've mentioned a few other nationalities on this thread as well. I know at least Malin Holmberg (SWE) has done 8a trad in Bohuslän and probably now in Lofoten with the route she did with Dave Pickford, but I'm surprised if a few other UK women haven't. Perhaps Mick is right, that few men have done it, so no surprise that its only a few women too.
> As for requiem, I seem to remember someone (TomPR?) saying it's not actually 8a+ but if it was its probably one of the first - wasn't Statement about 1984...?
But Statement was a sports route from the start was it not? Even if some of the fixed gear was pegs/threads etc.
> It might be a bit misleading to say hardly any/few UK men have climbed trad 8a. I'd say it's at least 20-30.... I think I can think of 20 myself!
We should do that as another list, it would be a great selection of routes no doubt!
> Still, I guess that's not exactly a big number.
Not huge but very respectable I guess; I suspect the UK would have a few more trad 8a-ers of either sex than France or Italy, which are basically the same population size. But I am surprised that there aren't more women - could it really be only Hazel F and Karin M? I'm wondering if someone like Anne Arran, Louise Thomas, Silvia Fitzpatrick (if she's British nowadays) might have done one; all climbers with very impressive CVs for mountain and expedition climbs.
In reply to The Fox: No idea, I haven't even climbed that much grit myself let alone hard stuff. It does seem lots of grit lines do get suggested French grades, so someone like Tom may well know. Has Snap been climbed by women (or a woman) then? Naomi Buys maybe?