UKC

Birkett on-sights Lakes E8 on Dove!!

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 Tom Briggs 03 Sep 2003
His best on-sighting spell ever culminated in an on-sight of Fear of Failure on Dove Crag this week.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

 Adam Lincoln 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

By eck!

Has he just recovered from a broken ankle too?
OP Tom Briggs 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

He never actually broke it in the end.
DaveR 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Blimey! One of the most under-rated climbers in Britain throwing down the gauntlet to the Sheffield Mafia.

Lakes 1; Peaks 0. I like it
 GrahamD 03 Sep 2003
In reply to DaveR:

I don't think Dave Birkett is really under rated - just under hyped.
 Wingnut 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Nice one!
DaveR 03 Sep 2003
In reply to GrahamD: Fair comment - amounts to the same thing though.
 BelleVedere 03 Sep 2003
In reply to DaveR:

> Lakes 1; Peaks 0. I like it

I like it 2!

Well done Dave

(think its even better cos im from langdale 2 - bit of a local hero - if only i could climb 1/2 that well).

Si O'Conor 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: It's always nice when Dave goes mental & starts onsighting stuff. It sort of gives everyone electric shock therapy when he stays quiet for a while & then explodes. The big dog still has the bite. Nice one Dave! Funny the broken ankle thing...a few years back he fell down the stairs, just before a Font trip, & broke his toe...He went anyhoos, & nearly managed to repeat of Karma.
Puts to shame all these willy wavers who cant climb cause they've stubbed or toe or their hair isn't right. hehe

Best Regards,
Si
 Fiend 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Awesome. Hurrah for proper climbing.
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
> His best on-sighting spell ever culminated in an on-sight of Fear of Failure on Dove Crag this week.
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

Effectivly onsighting the line first climbed by his Uncle Bill who had to resort to direct aid from a peg in 1980.

Great effort Dave.

Steve Crowe
Father Faff 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Ha, he must have got beta from his Uncle Bill. It's quite impossible to on-sight E8, everyone who's anyone knows that......

Well done Dave.
 Bob 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Didn't Dougie Hall do the second ascent of Vlad? Seem to remember something about it in the comics.

Bob
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Bob:

Well not according to my sources, I understand that he did four routes that day including Bucket Dynasty and Bucket City but NOT Vlad... unless of course?

How's your memory Bob, which mag, when?

Steve
 Bob 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Memory is currently totalled after spending several days attempting to build some software! However it is likely to have been High or Climber as I rarely read OTE. Just one of those things that lurks in the back of your mind.

Bob
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Bob:

I have been in touch with Dougie's belayer from that day and although it may have been reported at the time as Vlad it appears that it was Bucket Dynasty that Dougie led...
 Bob 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Memory, meet trash-can......

Bob
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Bob:

But memory is Crucial.com !
Anonymous 03 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:These Lakeland sheep farmers take some bleating , good one Dave ,and thanks for hanging onto me as I whipped passed you on Fanghorn.....P
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Bugger-my.

Well done Dave. Can you even imagine setting off on an E8 onsight? Urgh.

p.s was the (slight) downgrade on the pic suggested by Dave himself? If not, I note the great performance related downgrade has happened again....
ALastair 04 Sep 2003
In reply to midgets of the world unite:
above photo is not of McHaffie's route but another E7/8 on the same crag first climbed earlier this year and flashed by Birkett. See smartboysonline for all crag details. Brilliant series of efforts, well done Dave.
Alastair




 Adam Lincoln 04 Sep 2003
In reply to ALastair:

Oops i keep getting fear of failure and fetish for fear mixed up!
Alastair 04 Sep 2003
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
yeah,
bit confusing- lots of fear at that crag!!!

 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 05 Sep 2003
In reply to Adam Lincoln:


I've posted some extra pictures here:


http://www.smartboysonline.co.uk/interest.htm

See next OTE for more.

Steve Crowe
In reply to Steve Crowe:

I'm guessing that isn't the crux of Fear of Failure.
ADAM HOCKING 07 Sep 2003
F*CKING HELL. Good lad dave
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 11 Sep 2003
In reply to O. C. Curmudgeon:

Hiya O.C.

This is a link to Chris Hope making the second ascent and he is on the crux, and it isn't set up either although this is his first attempt from which he promtly fell off, nothing to do with me swinging about on the abb rope either!


Yours sincerely
S G Crowe
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 11 Sep 2003
In reply to O. C. Curmudgeon:

Hiya O.C.

This is a link to Chris Hope making the second ascent and he is on the crux, and it isn't set up either although this is his first attempt from which he promtly fell off, nothing to do with me swinging about on the abb rope either!

http://www.smartboysonline.co.uk/Fear-of-Failure-2nd-Ascent-.jpg

Yours sincerely
S G Crowe
 Adam Lincoln 11 Sep 2003
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Ha, been abroad has he!
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 11 Sep 2003
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

ermmm Chris? Yes he was actually, 40 degrees in the shade while it was only 30 degrees here.

Came back to Dove Crag browner and fitter than ever!
 Jamie B 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Is this the first bona-fide (ie no beta, no pre-placed gear) onsight of a UK E8 then?

JAMIE B>
 Fiend 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Jamie B.:

No. But one of very, very few AFAIK. So much respect (again).
OP Tom Briggs 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Jamie B.:

I don't know of any others, as there has either been misunderstanding/mis-reporting (e.g. something was done 'ground-up' rather than 'on-sight') or blatant bulls*it about other E8s being on-sighted.
 Adam Lincoln 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Ive heard Tender Homecomings and Brimham has been onsighted, which seems feasable...
 Jamie B 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Fiend:

> No. But one of very, very few AFAIK.

So what others can you list?

JAMIE B>
 Fiend 15 Sep 2003
In reply to Jamie B.:

Tender Homecomings as Mister Lincoln pointed out.
Doug
And isn't there something of that grade in Wales?? Does Extinction count?

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