/ Climbing shoe advice

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1906johns - on 31 Aug 2013
Hi, I've got a set of red chilli spirit vcrs at the moment and I want a more technical show for higher grades and I'm not sure what to look at, i want something down toed but good for smearing and stiff enough for decent edging too. any advice would be greatly appreciated

GridNorth - on 31 Aug 2013
In reply to 1906johns: What do you mean by higher grades? I like my Sportiva Muiras and everyone seems to rave about them as a good all rounder. Not sure why you are saying "down toed". Looking at your profile I wouldn't have thought that the discomfort normally associated with that style of shoe would offer you much benefit. Similarly the banana shape tend to straighten out a bit after time and at that point they tend to be even more comfortable and affective. Certainly at the modest grades I climb at i.e. E3 and f6c.
highclimber - on 31 Aug 2013
In reply to 1906johns: Spending 80+ on another pair of shoes won't help you climb any harder (unless the ones you've got are worn down, in which case, get them resoled). Spend that money on going to the gym more.
Keendan - on 31 Aug 2013
In reply to 1906johns:

Whichever shoes fit your feet best. Down-turned shoes are IMO unnecessary at your current grade, however if you are about to embark on some slate E3s for example then they might be useful.

Scarpa Instinct/Vapour are downturned, comfy and hard wearing for people with wide feet.

5.10 Anasazis are hugely popular at all grades and are not downturned. Good for people with narrow feet
And Climb on 01 Sep 2013
In reply to 1906johns: Have a look at Scarpa Vapour (lace or velcro), Five Ten Anasazi VCS and La Sportiva Katana. They'll only be good at edging if you size them tight as 1.5 UK sizes down in the Anasazi and Vapour or 2.5 down in the katana. Obviously try them on but they're some of the more popular ones.

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