UKC

"Cleaning" a possible new route

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 webbie88 02 Sep 2013
As I get more and more into my climbing this year I have started to look for some local winter projects and challenges. One of these is to find, clean & conquer a local rock face.

So I have found my desired venue as it has 4/5 possible routes that have never been climbed to my knowledge but unfortunately they are pretty minging, but thats the idea of this. To gain access to the bottom of the rock I will need to strim back some grass but then I am unsure what materials I will need to clean this route. So far I have:

Petrol Strimmer
Small garden trowel/fork (to clean bigger areas)
Steel wire brush

Is there any recommendations to how I would be best to go about cleaning the route and what other tools would be good.


Thanks

Webbie
 xplorer 02 Sep 2013
In reply to webbie88:

You won't need a steel wire brush.

Just use a large brush and a small brush. Maybe a small hand saw and trowel.
 ablackett 02 Sep 2013
In reply to webbie88: II think you can do without the strimmer, just put some trousers on and walk through the grass!

You should check who owns the crag. They might not be happy if you just rock up and start ripping plants out of their rock.

Be aware of loose rock. If it has never been climbed chances are that there will be some loose stuff on there.

Don't expect anyone to pay any attention, I have climbed several new routes of a similar style to what you are expecting, and other than one person finding them on here and going for a look nobody has paid any attention at all.

I would suggest if you have gained permission to abseil in from the top down your line, checking if the rock is solid and having a go at some of the moves. Or just strap on a pair and go for it from the bottom. What's the worst that could happen?
 Tom Last 02 Sep 2013
In reply to webbie88:

You may find you need a great number of brushes, I got through about 3 wire brushes on the last route I cleaned!
 Michael Gordon 02 Sep 2013
In reply to webbie88:

Lawnmower, weed killer, acid and dynamite should get rid of any surplus dirt, vege etc
 John Kelly 02 Sep 2013
In reply to webbie88:

maybe this is not great idea

-routes uncovered this way are often poor
-unless the route becomes popular it will probably return to nature fairly quickly.
-very often vegetation on crags is not rare but it is undisturbed

to satisfy your Titchmarsh tendency you could offer to garden for some little old lady and use any remaining strength to train train train

PS if you've found a new white ghyll don't let me put you off, traditionally you could try setting fire to the whole crag
 EliC 03 Sep 2013
In reply to John Kelly:
He said he was looking for a challenge not to find the UK's next best crag.

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