/ Charmoz, Monster GTX or Trango

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slugslap - on 17 Sep 2013
While recovering from my second ACL op,trying to stay sane & keep busy looking at gear & making plans, I'm after for advice/opinions/feedback on 3 different makes of boot, Scarpa Charmoz, Zamberlan Monster GTX and La Sportiva Trango.

End use, scrambling,(Cuillin, Tower Ridge etc) via ferrata, mainly 3 season but looking at Mont Blanc summer ascent in a couple of years, (knee & wife permitting}.
Craigie17 on 17 Sep 2013
In reply to slugslap:

Can only comment on the Charmoz properly, although I tried the Trango on at the same time and discarded it in favour of the Scarpa.

I liked the Charmoz for scrambling and easy climbs. It's a fantastically light boot, and has a narrow toe box which I found useful for wedging into cracks when on more technical ground. I liked the "climb zone" flattening on the front of the sole; some may feel its a bit sales gimmicky, but I felt it let me feel the rock a bit better than a cleated sole might.

Given the narrow toe box I didn't favour it for extended trips; after my third day walking in them my toes were feeling pretty pinched. My major complaint, though, was that they didn't last long. I went through mine in 11 months of moderate use on the usual mix of Scottish rock and bog (never used them in the snow). The silver textured material which they've used for the sides of the upper wore through, and eventually I was stamping about in wet feet. The soles, too, weren't much further behind. I'd caveat that by saying that I am hard on boots, and these were the first pair of lightweight synthetic mountaineering boots I have bought, and they taught me the tradeoff between weight and durability.

I have a couple of mates who also have the Charmoz. One had the same experience as me, the other's have lasted better a lot longer than mine.

Hope that is of some use. One other to look at might be the Mammut Monolith ?
slugslap - on 18 Sep 2013
In reply to Craigie17:
Many thanks for the feedback. I guess the fabric/manmade boot materials against leather is the trade off for the lighter weight against longevity.
Interesting point on the toe box issue as I have quite a wide foot so on extended trips that would certainly be an issue for me.
I have owned a pair of Scarpa Mescalito in the past & went through them in a season and a half of Scottish summer mountaineering. Great boot though.
Will check out the Monolith.

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