I'm noticing rack conversations and adverts and advice for alpine routes normally now stating cams of all sizes instead of hexes and rocks.
Personally i'd be thinking that the route might not want my cams, after all it is difficult to know in advance the conditions, at least until you get to beneath it. Don't cams slip in ice?
Obviously they do, but my question is don't they deserve a lower ranking than hexes?
In reply to 2halfs: Quite often on spring/summer alpine ice routes there is a lot of dry rock which will take a cam quite safely. You are quite right in thinking they are less good in icy cracks, where a hex mashed in with a hammer is about as confidence inspiring as it gets.