In reply to Sankey:
> an extra long clip stick is your friend, as far as I know it can reach most of the high first clips, I leant mine to someone to clip somthing (ground effect maybe) at the weekend and I think most likely Directisma would be in range.
I've got a 6m carp pole as a clipstick, it's longer than most and I can often get the 3rd or sometimes the 4th bolt with it at shorter crags. I'm pretty sure I can't clip the Directissima or I would and I remember I didn't the other week.
I think the Frankie bolting is probably the compromise result of the chopping war it suffered. It makes no sense on the crag as it is today.
I guess the Directissima is left as is because in context it's basically easy ground from 4m to 8m, the start is 'bouldered' which works for most people climbing comfortably within their ability. I find it fairly spicy for a few meters.
jk