UKC

Morocco!!!

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 tom.fleming17 25 Sep 2013
Hey All,

My girlfriend and I are planning a climbing trip to Morocco next April, mainly the Todra Gorge area, and I was wondering if anyone had any handy tips for climbing there and just general advice on Morocco and cool s**t to see else where?

Tom
OP tom.fleming17 25 Sep 2013
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: cheers man, yeah I came across that not long ago. just wondered if anymore people had and other advice
 rockcat 27 Sep 2013
In reply to tom.fleming17: We went a few years ago. Morocco and the Todra Gorge ticks all the boxes. You can get the bus from Marrakesh to Tinerhir which takes a day and crosses the Atlas Mountains. Be sure to book your ticket the day before at the bus station because its often full. We stayed in the rustic Valentine hotel just outside the gorge which meant we didn't have any transport issues. Well recommended and it was only 15E /night.
http://www.hotel-valentine.net/En/index.html
They will lend you a copy of the hand produced guide. Its photocopied and amateurish but its all that was available at the time. Very friendly people in Morocco but keep your wits about you!
 victorclimber 27 Sep 2013
In reply to tom.fleming17: be ready to be hot as it will be .
OP tom.fleming17 29 Sep 2013
Cheers guys that all bril informations we are no strangers to travelling thank fully happy with it all
Any second opinions realisticly on how much gear to take? we want to do some good multi-pitches obviously I don't want to over pack either.

Thanks again
 Ramblin dave 29 Sep 2013
In reply to tom.fleming17:
Since this thread's here, I'm going to hijack the "general advice" bit. Among other things, we've been wondering about big, nontechnical, multi-day routes in the High Atlas. Toubkal is the obvious one - but is there anything else in the same vein?

Thanks!
 Jubjab 30 Sep 2013
In reply to tom.fleming17: we went to Todra Gorge a couple of years ago and I can highly recommend it! Great climbing and very little traffic. We stayed at the Hotel Mansour, which was cheap but dirty, and the owner was a bit dodgy. I recommend to stay somewhere else.

Most of the routes are well bolted sport routes, so a single rope and a 12-14 quickdraws should be enough also for the multipitch routes. There are some trad routes, where I assume there are some pins and horns, so a set of nuts, a handful of cams and a half-dozen slings should be ok for those.

The multi-pitch routes are walk down, so you can't stash anything at the bottom of the route. So take a small pack or two for your approach shoes and food & water. Headlamps (+spare batteries) are also a must, as it gets very dark in the evening & night.
OP tom.fleming17 30 Sep 2013
In reply to Jubjab: sorted cheers matey, that's pritty much what I was planning to take so that's good to know
 Jubjab 01 Oct 2013
In reply to tom.fleming17: one more thing, the people in Todra are very willing to make barter trades. They suggested I'd give my softshell jacket in exchange for a carpet, and another guy wanted my helmet in exchange for some handicraft. So take that old but working mobile phone or flashlight and use those to buy some souvenirs!

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