In reply to Blue Straggler:
I'll tell you just how it was done. I recce'd the camera angle (using a rope hanging down the buttress on the right), with volunteers climbing the route, weeks before I shot Joe on it. I went to visit Joe in Llanberis, (thanks to Jim Perrin) around Easter and he agreed to do it, on principle. Apparently it was very rare for him to agree to let professional photographers/writers to take pictures of him climbing, because he generally shunned publicity (I was warned that there was less than a 50/50 chance that he'd agree.)
I then waited for weeks. After about 6 weeks I got a phone call from him saying the delay was that he had pulled his shoulder and it was taking a long time to recover. I carried on waiting.
Suddenly, in August, I got another phone call saying he was coming to Derbyshire that weekend, and would be able to do it on the Saturday morning. Agreed time was 11.00 am. So I went up to Stanage (after a breakfast in Outside - where I didn't breathe a word to anyone about what was about to happen ... how people would have love to have known ...) I was hanging in my camera position at about 10.45. And then we just waited ... and waited. 11.15 came ... no sign of him. 11. 20. 11.25. Then is spotted two climbers coming very fast up the side of the Plantation wood. both with grey hair. Indeed i was Joe. Very taciturn. Hardly said a word. He simply said 'I'm not sure I'll be able to do this, Gordon..' He was still worried about his shoulder.
As soon as he'd got his boots on he started up the route ... there was a moment of doubt when he fixed the first crucial runners before the move in the photograph, and then he just can charging up it at a surprising speed. And as he came, this huge grin spread across his face. He only put on 3 or 4 runners, far fewer than most modern climbers.
Once he was at the top he said he thought that was possibly only the second time he'd done the route. If he'd repeated it, it would have been very shortly after his first ascent in 1949.
And that was it. No fakery whatever. I was very nervous taking the shots, on a 645 camera. The focus was tricky because I deliberately used quite a wide aperture to reduce the depth of field, but fortunately the results were very satisfactory. Those were the days when you waited nervously for the film to be processed before you knew whether the shots were OK.