I'm looking for a good location to set up a group abseil in the Hope Valley area. Any locals know of a decent crag/area that is out the way of the more established edges? I know how annoying it can be to have groups abbing all over the line you're looking to climb!
In reply to thomaspomfrett: I've used the far end of Horseshoe a couple of times. If you walk right around the side you come to the top of the Chocolate Blancmange wall, where there are two big trees a long way back that equalise nicely to give you a line down the corner between Neanderthal and Excavator. I'd always figured that this was a bit less annoying than sending clients down some 3* gritstone slab, and it's a lot higher and more impressive too.
Caveats: you will need two 50m static ropes, one to rig and one to abseil on. Because the rig is so long there's considerable stretch when the climber goes over the edge - tension it yourself to take as much of that stretch out first. With a very heavy client I found that everything moved almost 3m towards the edge when they weighted the system so set all the knots way back from the edge.
And the rock is not the most solid, so have a system to get one client away from the base before the next sets off. Don't consider sending anyone down if there's anyone climbing on Neanderthal, Excavator or Slab Cake.
In reply to thomaspomfrett: the BMC actively recommend Miller's Dale? Interesting.
I too thought there were some access issues (my understanding is that a couple of the big outdoor centres had somehow bagged the access rights and were less than friendly to others trying to use it) so I've never taken clients there. There was a suggestion here that you needed a site-specific licence, though no details of who to apply to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=377766
If it is open for use by anyone who just turns up, I'd love to know.
In reply to thomaspomfrett:
There is no mystery here. The licenses are controlled by the Peak National Park and they insist on holders having insurance and complying with operating procedures whilst at the bridge. Otherwise there is potential for conflict with other users of the trail and of local residents.
> (In reply to thomaspomfrett)
> Just found this...
> A licence is required for abseiling from Bridge 75 at Millers Dale.
> Contact the Access & Recreation Administration Support Team for further
> information on 01629 816290.
In reply to Jamie Wakeham: No idea at this stage, I've not spoken to the contact yet. The question was partly out of interest as there are numerous posts where people (in many cases quite correctly) get angry about groups hogging areas of a crag or abseiling down classic lines but people very rarely provide a concrete solution of where the groups might go.
I've got my SPA assessment in November and as part of the home paper I've got to plan a trip in the Hope Valley area. I've already got a couple of options for a group abseil (some of the quieter areas of Stanage or a bit further afield outside the valley maybe Harborough Rocks) but was wondering if there were any better ideas.
In reply to thomaspomfrett:
The roadside bay at Lawrencefield has a popular abseil line with good rigging and a safe area at the top. The line goes down an E10 project so not likely to be much conflict with climbers.