UKC

Chamonix: partner next week & cool rock route suggestions?

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 JuneBob 03 Oct 2013
Hey all,

I'm off to Chamonix next week, and will be there all day Friday 11 - Monday 14 October, and Tuesday morning.
I will do some stuff with a guide for 2 or 3 days, but for the other day or 2, I'm looking for a climbing partner; probably just sport climbing (I lead 6b-ish), but whatever really. Just putting an early request out there, as I won't be sure exactly which days till next week. Maybe PM me.

Re: the guided stuff, he'll have plenty of ideas of what to do but any personal recs? I'm hoping the weather will be good enough to do a big rock route high up, conditions dependant. I guess a route with pitches up to 6b.

Thanks.
In reply to JuneBob: Bear in mind all but the Midi lift are now closed and even that will be closing soon I believe.
OP JuneBob 03 Oct 2013
In reply to higherclimbingwales:
thanks.
OP JuneBob 03 Oct 2013
In reply to JuneBob:
I just checked - it's open till november 4th which is fine by me...
paddyrock 03 Oct 2013
In reply to JuneBob: wouldn't count on rock routes this time of year especially high long ones.
Get yourself some ice tools and start scratching. Great fun.
 JohnV 03 Oct 2013
In reply to JuneBob:

I climbed on the North-West slabs of the Peigne today- cold but not unpleasant. The weather looks ok tomorrow for a rock route there- 1 hour hike from the mid station of the Midi; good for a big of acclimatising as well. You could try the normal route on the Peigne for something long? Or the Vaucher route of the West face? Weather not so good on Saturday, so high rock may be out for good after that...

 peebles boy 04 Oct 2013
In reply to JuneBob:

Lower than you're climbing at, but th e two routes up from Les Bois (Via Corda Alpina and Voie Caline, pg109-112 in the Crag Clinch in Chamonix guide book) are cracking long route, 3c and 4a respectively. Short approaches, no lifts needed. The bookstore beside Channel shop or the Quecha store sell the books.
Todays heavy rain hasn't materialized, to be honest a lot of the forecast bad weather over the last week or so hasn't came about.
 walts4 04 Oct 2013
In reply to paddyrock:

Hey its never over to the fat lady sings or so they say!

Was up on the Adolphe rey yesterday on the granite, but think this weekends weather could be the end of the rock season high up unfortunately.
Sure & hopefully someone will be along soon to prove me wrong..
OP JuneBob 04 Oct 2013
In reply to walts4:
Hehe, thanks for the replies. Yeah, I know I'm taking a bit of a chance this late in the season, but I just fancied going to Cham
I'll see!
 Carless 04 Oct 2013
In reply to JuneBob:

If you can't get up high, the long 6a+s up the Vallon de Berade are good
also the stuff on the Barberine above the French/Swiss border
and the limestone above Cluses
 TomDisomma 04 Oct 2013
In reply to Carless:
> (In reply to JuneBob)
>
> If you can't get up high, the long 6a+s up the Vallon de Berade are good
> also the stuff on the Barberine above the French/Swiss border
> and the limestone above Cluses

Definately agree with this.

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