UKC

Hi all,

I'm currently trying to decide between the following jackets:

Rab Generator Alpine, Montane Ice Guide, Mountain Equipment Fitzroy, Berghaus Ignite Hoody.

Does anyone have any experience of the differences between these? I'm looking for a jacket that will keep me warm when stationary in wind and rain, but still packs down nicely.

I think the warmest one would be the Ice Guide, but might it not be so wind/water-proof?

Any comments would be really appreciated.

Thanks

In reply to ajtgraves:

They'll all be the same level of windproof-ness I think. That is totally windproof.

Look at the fill for each - type of fill and weight. That and the cut on you is what will make them warm or less so.

I think the Rab Generator Alpine will pack down smallest of the four for a given weight. But they'll all do the job so buy the one you like most.

Also have a look at the Rab Xenon (original or new X) http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Insulated-Jacket-Reviews/Rab-Xenon which is probably the best lightweight pure belay jacket, as long as the smallish hood fits over your helmet

In reply to ajtgraves:
If it's of any use to you I have the "Berghaus Ignite Hoody" and personally think it's really good.

I use it to wear while belaying at the bottom of the crag, normally layered on top of something but that's mainly because when I take it off to climb I don't want to get all cold. It'd probably be warm enough to wear with just a decent base layer underneath.

The type of climbing I do is trad, normally in Spring, Summer & Autumn but if there's a good winter day for some craging I'll normally be out then too.

It does pack down pretty small but does still take up space, considering how warm its kept me, even in the win & moderate rain I'd say it's pretty small. Never used it in heavy rain.

Also it zips up from the bottom which is really handy I find for having over a harness then opening the bottom up a little to make belaying easier.

In reply to ajtgraves:

I'm really tempted by the Ice Guide, but am slightly worried that it might be a bit warm for anything but winter use? Also does anyone know how bulky it is? And how well does it cope in the wind and rain?

In reply to ajtgraves: cheap ignites at Gaynor sports

http://www.gaynors.co.uk/products/shop-by-category/insulation-jackets-vests...

In reply:

Thanks very much for all this advice. I think I'll leave the Ice Guide on the basis of it being simply too warm for Scotland (and maybe not quite as weather-resistant as the others?)

So I'm trying to decide between the ME Fitzroy and the Rab GE. There's a few issues I forsee with both:

1)Are the pockets accessible while wearing a harness or backpack with waistbelt?
2)Does the hood roll away neatly, or is it quite bulky and get in the way?
3)I've heard the Rab zips can get stuck sometimes - anyone experienced this?
4)How tightly can you do up the cuffs on both jackets - I've got quite small wrists!

Many thanks again

In reply to ajtgraves:

I have a GA.

You wouldn't wear a belay jacket under your harness, so pocket spacing doesn't matter (think about it).

The hood rolls away and can be tabbed down, but I can't see a time I'd bother using this.

The zip is the best rab zip I've had, and is stiffened in places and hasn't got stuck on me yet.

Cuffs are fine.

ME is heavier duty, Rab is lighter weight.

In reply to ajtgraves: I have the ignite hoody and am very impressed with it. Works well under a shell in extreme conditions, but I've also worn it all day without realising just how wet it was until the end of the day (totally soaked through).

I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a synthetic jacket.

For what it's worth, I really rate my generator alpine. My two bug bears are hoods and sleeve length and the GA is great for both. I think the rab hood design can't be bettered for fit with or without a lid and the sleeves are obviously cut with climbing in mind.
Having said that, I've never tried the Fitzroy on so can't compare but the rab was perfect when I tried it. You may be best finding a shop that stocks a few and compare/contrast.

In reply to ajtgraves: I've got a Patagonia Das Parka for sale on here, any good for you?

In reply to ajtgraves:

The Berghaus gets a very good write up.

Very light

As is the Mount Hardwear. Ghost Whisperer

In reply to neuromancer: The new generator alpine has better zips than last year. They're a little bigger and easier to blindly unzip with one hand.