This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (342) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=565252
The week just gone:
mattrm- holiday over, aiming for one session per week over the winter, plus yoga, in prep for Scottish Winter.
kevster - is going to climb something this week
annak - gets flu, starts the day as in Four Weddings and a Funeral, but still makes it to her first HM and pulls off a sub 2 hour time. Well done!
Exile - another six days of activity, with bridge training helping make the vertical Blow Out a fingery forte. Good efforts on that.
AJM - you have had a hell of a few weeks, so the odd lacklustre few days is allowed. A plot is brewing.
mbh - maintaining 60 mpw volume and getting a bit faster.
Eagle River - is now a yoga fan (sounds great!) and makes marginal progress on the Ashes. Good going, and well done for keeping at it.
Thickhead - even if they are only hills, that is another really good week at a good pace. Bad luck on the race!
IainRUK - name dropper of the week! (We are jealous - well, I am) in between the flying, driving and running. Hope the fatigue issues resolve themselves.
mrchewy - reflecting on what he likes best (and finds his running mojo) after 3 weeks at font (thumbs down), ariege and siurana (thumbs definitely up). Great report.
Nick Russell - Well done on the swimming trials heat. Doing 7a+ Rave Party RP in a day is super stuff too. Great going.
Si dH - mind games on highball Thumbelina. At least you gave it a go.
Luke Owens - Suddenly discovers he's lost 6 lb in weight. Pay attention! Great effort on Axle Attack and a good week all round. I am sure you will crack the stamina thing.
grubes - is no fan of Woodhouse, but has a plan to train power for Font. Hope the elbow niggle does not flare up.
pork pie girl - I love your reports. That's a real training week, that is.
Nomics4sale - some very impressive running there. Hope you had a blast at Langdale.
needkraken - what a busy week. Good luck with the STG.
Sankey - Nice work on Dead End Job. Hope you get the 7b before the swallow question catches you out.
Ali - sounds like the rest will do you good. Lots of ideas there for recovery. Mind the cars.
maria85 - great to see someone having a plan and doing it. Well done, and, I agree, intervals are hard.
stevemarkperry - ticks over with a (I bet it was nice) walk and a bike ride.
Joughton - competing with Caff et al at the BLCCs! Great stuff, Jake.
biscuit - you OK?
And so ends another week of statless stats which doesn't capture the many helpful and informed discussions between you all.
And now for the next week, even darker than the last....but I have confiscated all lurgies from you, so that should help.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (342) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=565252
The week just gone:
mattrm- holiday over, aiming for one session per week over the winter, plus yoga, in prep for Scottish Winter.
kevster - is going to climb something this week
annak - gets flu, starts the day as in Four Weddings and a Funeral, but still makes it to her first HM and pulls off a sub 2 hour time. Well done!
Exile - another six days of activity, with bridge training helping make the vertical Blow Out a fingery forte. Good efforts on that.
AJM - you have had a hell of a few weeks, so the odd lacklustre few days is allowed. A plot is brewing.
mbh - maintaining 60 mpw volume and getting a bit faster.
Eagle River - is now a yoga fan (sounds great!) and makes marginal progress on the Ashes. Good going, and well done for keeping at it.
Thickhead - even if they are only hills, that is another really good week at a good pace. Bad luck on the race!
IainRUK - name dropper of the week! (We are jealous - well, I am) in between the flying, driving and running. Hope the fatigue issues resolve themselves.
mrchewy - reflecting on what he likes best (and finds his running mojo) after 3 weeks at font (thumbs down), ariege and siurana (thumbs definitely up). Great report.
Nick Russell - Well done on the swimming trials heat. Doing 7a+ Rave Party RP in a day is super stuff too. Great going.
Si dH - mind games on highball Thumbelina. At least you gave it a go.
Luke Owens - Suddenly discovers he's lost 6 lb in weight. Pay attention! Great effort on Axle Attack and a good week all round. I am sure you will crack the stamina thing.
grubes - is no fan of Woodhouse, but has a plan to train power for Font. Hope the elbow niggle does not flare up.
pork pie girl - I love your reports. That's a real training week, that is.
Nomics4sale - some very impressive running there. Hope you had a blast at Langdale.
needkraken - what a busy week. Good luck with the STG.
Sankey - Nice work on Dead End Job. Hope you get the 7b before the swallow question catches you out.
Ali - sounds like the rest will do you good. Lots of ideas there for recovery. Mind the cars.
maria85 - great to see someone having a plan and doing it. Well done, and, I agree, intervals are hard.
stevemarkperry - ticks over with a (I bet it was nice) walk and a bike ride.
Joughton - competing with Caff et al at the BLCCs! Great stuff, Jake.
biscuit - you OK?
And so ends another week of statless stats which doesn't capture the many helpful and informed discussions between you all.
And now for the next week, even darker than the last....but I have confiscated all lurgies from you, so that should help.
In reply to mbh: thanks mbh, it was quite funny swapping beta with someone you know has climbed E9 and 9a!
This week has been good in terms of training and progress. Slowly coming to terms with the fact that it is now winter! Hopefully I'll still get a few sessions on the grit or at the tor.
Mon - really good session at AW Stockport. Decided to keep trying harder things until I got stuck. Onsighted 6c+, 7a, didn't manage a ridiculously hard 7b (ER can vouch for me here). Then onsighted the next 7b I tried, as well as a 7a+, 7b+ and 7c. Really pleased. Discovered the secret to the routes were to climb really fast because there are never any good rests anyway. Had a go at the 8a but it was locking < 1 pad crimps at full stretch the whole way up.
Tue - rest
Wed - bouldering at AW Stockport. Another good session, feeling stronger every bouldering session. Warmed up then flashed most of the V5 and V6 circuits, as well as doing five of the V7-8 circuit, two flashed. Soft grades but still progress from last time.
Thurs - rest
Fri - MCC bouldering comp. Flashed everything up to V5, all but one of the V5-6 problems, and one V6-8. Not sure about my result but I think it's 4th or 5th in the Adult Male category...
Sat - rest
Sun - either a wall session or core and pull-ups.
Cheers, Jake
This week has been good in terms of training and progress. Slowly coming to terms with the fact that it is now winter! Hopefully I'll still get a few sessions on the grit or at the tor.
Mon - really good session at AW Stockport. Decided to keep trying harder things until I got stuck. Onsighted 6c+, 7a, didn't manage a ridiculously hard 7b (ER can vouch for me here). Then onsighted the next 7b I tried, as well as a 7a+, 7b+ and 7c. Really pleased. Discovered the secret to the routes were to climb really fast because there are never any good rests anyway. Had a go at the 8a but it was locking < 1 pad crimps at full stretch the whole way up.
Tue - rest
Wed - bouldering at AW Stockport. Another good session, feeling stronger every bouldering session. Warmed up then flashed most of the V5 and V6 circuits, as well as doing five of the V7-8 circuit, two flashed. Soft grades but still progress from last time.
Thurs - rest
Fri - MCC bouldering comp. Flashed everything up to V5, all but one of the V5-6 problems, and one V6-8. Not sure about my result but I think it's 4th or 5th in the Adult Male category...
Sat - rest
Sun - either a wall session or core and pull-ups.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Joughton:
Still going strong Jake! Wish I was young again, and took it up early...
Cheers mbh,
Another poor week, no climbing. Did set one day though, so some exercise.
Maybe this week! Work has gone silly. 18 hour days isn't good for training, but it all counts towards the bottom line.
Cheers kev.
Still going strong Jake! Wish I was young again, and took it up early...
Cheers mbh,
Another poor week, no climbing. Did set one day though, so some exercise.
Maybe this week! Work has gone silly. 18 hour days isn't good for training, but it all counts towards the bottom line.
Cheers kev.
In reply to mbh:
M - 10.3 miles run, road
T - 5.1 miles run, road
W - 10 miles run, flat trail at 7:18 pace, a PB for this distance, beating last week's PB by 2 minutes.. Getting closer to the target of 7:00 pace for this distance.
T - 8 miles run, flat trail, with 6 miles at 6:57 pace, up from 4 at this pace last week.
F - 7 miles, coast path and woods
S - 1.8 km swimming, then 10.0 miles run, trail and road, first 4 miles at 6:50 pace, miss PB for this route, set last week, by 3 s.
S -13.4 miles run, road and trail, including 5 miles flat section at 7:30 pace. Beat PB for this route, set two weeks ago, by 2 and half minutes.
63 miles running, 1280 m ascent (so not all that hilly, overall) and 1.8 km swimming.
That is now ten 60+ miles in the last 3 months and 2310 miles for the last 12 months.
So, I have maintained the volume, which is getting harder to do as work and darkness encroach more and more, but also increased the proportion of "fast" (as in, I am really trying) miles, with 22 at sub 7:30, and 10 at sub 7:00 pace. This is new territory for me. The choice of flatter routes is helping. So that is good. However, I would like to learn how to run at a chosen pace. At the moment, I just go for it when I want to go "fast" then ease off when I want to, but although I try to go at what I think might be 7:30 pace, or whatever, my actual paces are quite variable. Those pace figures I give above are averages over the distances; the mile by mile splits are more variable than I would like. I need to learn how to use the GPS watch to help me here.
M - 10.3 miles run, road
T - 5.1 miles run, road
W - 10 miles run, flat trail at 7:18 pace, a PB for this distance, beating last week's PB by 2 minutes.. Getting closer to the target of 7:00 pace for this distance.
T - 8 miles run, flat trail, with 6 miles at 6:57 pace, up from 4 at this pace last week.
F - 7 miles, coast path and woods
S - 1.8 km swimming, then 10.0 miles run, trail and road, first 4 miles at 6:50 pace, miss PB for this route, set last week, by 3 s.
S -13.4 miles run, road and trail, including 5 miles flat section at 7:30 pace. Beat PB for this route, set two weeks ago, by 2 and half minutes.
63 miles running, 1280 m ascent (so not all that hilly, overall) and 1.8 km swimming.
That is now ten 60+ miles in the last 3 months and 2310 miles for the last 12 months.
So, I have maintained the volume, which is getting harder to do as work and darkness encroach more and more, but also increased the proportion of "fast" (as in, I am really trying) miles, with 22 at sub 7:30, and 10 at sub 7:00 pace. This is new territory for me. The choice of flatter routes is helping. So that is good. However, I would like to learn how to run at a chosen pace. At the moment, I just go for it when I want to go "fast" then ease off when I want to, but although I try to go at what I think might be 7:30 pace, or whatever, my actual paces are quite variable. Those pace figures I give above are averages over the distances; the mile by mile splits are more variable than I would like. I need to learn how to use the GPS watch to help me here.
In reply to mbh:
Cheers mbh. Nothing much for me this week, had an ok wall session on Monday but nothing since - too much work, diy and bad weather. Si
Cheers mbh. Nothing much for me this week, had an ok wall session on Monday but nothing since - too much work, diy and bad weather. Si
In reply to mbh:
Cheers mate I am ok.
Just arrived back in Manchester after driving from malaga with a full car, farting dog and 2 cats complete with litter tray. Not the most fun I've ever had.
Didn't get to go climbing last week due to wife related issues and packing. Un finished projects but lots of good friends there with offers of free airport transfers and accommodation so it'd be rude not to head back asap. Just need to find the money. A church mouse laughed at me earlier. Skint
On the plus side the weather here looks good for getting out - not ! Will be trying to get out midweek day or evenings at manchester walls if weather is still crap if anyone is up for it ?
Cheers mate I am ok.
Just arrived back in Manchester after driving from malaga with a full car, farting dog and 2 cats complete with litter tray. Not the most fun I've ever had.
Didn't get to go climbing last week due to wife related issues and packing. Un finished projects but lots of good friends there with offers of free airport transfers and accommodation so it'd be rude not to head back asap. Just need to find the money. A church mouse laughed at me earlier. Skint
On the plus side the weather here looks good for getting out - not ! Will be trying to get out midweek day or evenings at manchester walls if weather is still crap if anyone is up for it ?
In reply to biscuit: me and ER planning to be @ AW Stockport couple of mid-week evenings most weeks. tuesday and thursday this week coming. obviously you're welcome to join us.
In reply to biscuit:
Its looking like we will be in Chorro from mid jan to mid feb, so if you scrape any pennies together and fancy a trip then then do let us know. Ditto midweek stuff, I'm still around.
Monday - Still don't get grit. Got spanked by 7 ball (I think? Burbage south. I assume its a sit start?). A bit dank on the edge to be honest. Psyche near to zero.
Tuesday - Huntsham. Low Blow a bit dank. Went bouldering instead. Nearly repeated Under Stars is best (6C?), put a video and some photos of it on Facebook which some might have seen. Did all the hard stuff and a pebble crumbled on the penultimate hold. Then tried Bivi Groove, which is supposedly 6B+, although to be honest harder than Under Stars for me, a big powerful lock rather than some trickery. Got it eventually.
Wednesday - Birmingham Bouldering Centre. Worked some harder problems, got a few. Decent session.
Thursday - Cheddar. Usual warmups then on Right Hand Man. Felt shit on it. Decided to move on from it. The frustration I'm getting from it just isn't worth it right now. I like the boulder problem, but for me its so precise and specific and body positiony that its just not working getting on it this infrequently. So in my remaining time here I'm going to do some bouldering to get strong, try and finish off Low Blow, and try and pick off some local classics on sport and trad.
Friday - Wintours. Cold. Got on retroflash on lurking smear which is a very techy balancey 7a, pleased to get that. Did an e2 on Helen's gear, some of it was in the crux hold which was one of those "shouldn't have done it the easy way" moments. Tried a one move wonder 7b, big slap across a massive roof. Had a few goes, quite good fun, got close.
A better week. Hoping for some more bouldering and low blow action next week plus some trad/sport.
Its looking like we will be in Chorro from mid jan to mid feb, so if you scrape any pennies together and fancy a trip then then do let us know. Ditto midweek stuff, I'm still around.
Monday - Still don't get grit. Got spanked by 7 ball (I think? Burbage south. I assume its a sit start?). A bit dank on the edge to be honest. Psyche near to zero.
Tuesday - Huntsham. Low Blow a bit dank. Went bouldering instead. Nearly repeated Under Stars is best (6C?), put a video and some photos of it on Facebook which some might have seen. Did all the hard stuff and a pebble crumbled on the penultimate hold. Then tried Bivi Groove, which is supposedly 6B+, although to be honest harder than Under Stars for me, a big powerful lock rather than some trickery. Got it eventually.
Wednesday - Birmingham Bouldering Centre. Worked some harder problems, got a few. Decent session.
Thursday - Cheddar. Usual warmups then on Right Hand Man. Felt shit on it. Decided to move on from it. The frustration I'm getting from it just isn't worth it right now. I like the boulder problem, but for me its so precise and specific and body positiony that its just not working getting on it this infrequently. So in my remaining time here I'm going to do some bouldering to get strong, try and finish off Low Blow, and try and pick off some local classics on sport and trad.
Friday - Wintours. Cold. Got on retroflash on lurking smear which is a very techy balancey 7a, pleased to get that. Did an e2 on Helen's gear, some of it was in the crux hold which was one of those "shouldn't have done it the easy way" moments. Tried a one move wonder 7b, big slap across a massive roof. Had a few goes, quite good fun, got close.
A better week. Hoping for some more bouldering and low blow action next week plus some trad/sport.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks mbh, and good job on the stats (incidentally, why do you call them that when, as you observe, they don't contain any actual stats?) - I've been finding them pretty entertaining lately.
M - am swimming (3km), pm yoga
T - Rest (really sore from Sunday + Monday)
W - Nothing (still sore, travelling to London)
T - Climbing at the Castle. (More a social thing with friends in London than training, but I had about an hour of decent bouldering.)
F - Nothing (travelling back from London)
S - Climbing at Cheddar, a bit of an opportunistic trip when the weather forecast suddenly picked up and the sun came out. Warmed up on a 6a+ (Yes Men, pretty stiff start!) then got on Speed Freak (7a+). After flash attempt I got it on the first RP! Felt a lot easier than Rave Party.
S - Climbing at Redpoint. (More just checking out the wall, rather than any focussed training.)
So training this week has been a bit disrupted by a trip to London and feeling really sore at the start (I could hardly walk on Tuesday and Wednesday!) and a little bit of reluctance to get into the indoor season just yet. Still, a good afternoon on Saturday - bring on the 7b's! It's good to start yoga again (uni classes just started), even though it was predictably painful after a long break.
Short term goals (end of October)
Sort out joining a masters swimming club
Plan some kind of structured winter training. Get a few partners on board with that.
Afternoon/weekend trips to Cheddar whenever the weather allows (make the most of still having my parents' car).
Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Sport: 7a flash, 7b+ redpoint (I have a few in mind to try)
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some!
> Nick Russell - Well done on the swimming trials heat. Doing 7a+ Rave Party RP in a day is super stuff too. Great going.
Thanks mbh, and good job on the stats (incidentally, why do you call them that when, as you observe, they don't contain any actual stats?) - I've been finding them pretty entertaining lately.
M - am swimming (3km), pm yoga
T - Rest (really sore from Sunday + Monday)
W - Nothing (still sore, travelling to London)
T - Climbing at the Castle. (More a social thing with friends in London than training, but I had about an hour of decent bouldering.)
F - Nothing (travelling back from London)
S - Climbing at Cheddar, a bit of an opportunistic trip when the weather forecast suddenly picked up and the sun came out. Warmed up on a 6a+ (Yes Men, pretty stiff start!) then got on Speed Freak (7a+). After flash attempt I got it on the first RP! Felt a lot easier than Rave Party.
S - Climbing at Redpoint. (More just checking out the wall, rather than any focussed training.)
So training this week has been a bit disrupted by a trip to London and feeling really sore at the start (I could hardly walk on Tuesday and Wednesday!) and a little bit of reluctance to get into the indoor season just yet. Still, a good afternoon on Saturday - bring on the 7b's! It's good to start yoga again (uni classes just started), even though it was predictably painful after a long break.
Short term goals (end of October)
Sort out joining a masters swimming club
Plan some kind of structured winter training. Get a few partners on board with that.
Afternoon/weekend trips to Cheddar whenever the weather allows (make the most of still having my parents' car).
Medium term goals (end of 2013)
Sport: 7a flash, 7b+ redpoint (I have a few in mind to try)
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Good going on Speed Freak.
The stat thing was my lame joke. When I started doing it they were referred to as stats, and while I thought of dividing the number of E points per week by the average pace per mile and coming up with a parameter, I realised i would come off badly by that measure, so abandoned the idea. Hence, all I do is summarise what seems to mean most to people, fool around, try to be nice and hope I don't upset anyone.
Good going on Speed Freak.
The stat thing was my lame joke. When I started doing it they were referred to as stats, and while I thought of dividing the number of E points per week by the average pace per mile and coming up with a parameter, I realised i would come off badly by that measure, so abandoned the idea. Hence, all I do is summarise what seems to mean most to people, fool around, try to be nice and hope I don't upset anyone.
In reply to AJM:
7ball:
Start sitting down and right, feet out right but left foot quite close in. Pull on and reach out with left hand. Bring right heel on somewhere, might be starting hand hold. Match hands then move left hand in to back handed position on big sloper at base of groove. Get feet as high/stable as possible (not on poor heel hook tho - keep them loser near the starting hands) then match hands and reach around with left hand to left arete. Bring right heel in, then slap both hands up (hugging position). Do something with your left foot or knee around the arete (really helps) and slap both hands up again, still hugging). Then you're on the good bits and it's all over.
Classic hard 6c+. My beta will be a bit dodgy at the start but you get the gist - i can remember some holds but not all the ones i did t use.
Burbage south is always dank.
7ball:
Start sitting down and right, feet out right but left foot quite close in. Pull on and reach out with left hand. Bring right heel on somewhere, might be starting hand hold. Match hands then move left hand in to back handed position on big sloper at base of groove. Get feet as high/stable as possible (not on poor heel hook tho - keep them loser near the starting hands) then match hands and reach around with left hand to left arete. Bring right heel in, then slap both hands up (hugging position). Do something with your left foot or knee around the arete (really helps) and slap both hands up again, still hugging). Then you're on the good bits and it's all over.
Classic hard 6c+. My beta will be a bit dodgy at the start but you get the gist - i can remember some holds but not all the ones i did t use.
Burbage south is always dank.
In reply to Si dH:
Having looked at a photo i think i added in a move there that doesn't exist - you just reach straight out with your left i think.
Having looked at a photo i think i added in a move there that doesn't exist - you just reach straight out with your left i think.
In reply to Si dH:
Interesting cheers. I pinged off the edges on the lip a few times, skin shredder, so was going out straight to the base of the groove with my left. Wasn't sure where to go from there (straight up the groove or using the arête). Was down as 6c in my guide so feel happier about being spanked if its hard 6c+.
Interesting cheers. I pinged off the edges on the lip a few times, skin shredder, so was going out straight to the base of the groove with my left. Wasn't sure where to go from there (straight up the groove or using the arête). Was down as 6c in my guide so feel happier about being spanked if its hard 6c+.
In reply to AJM:
Yer it used to be a sandbag. Definitely match at base of groove then go to the arete with your left and hug it.
Yer it used to be a sandbag. Definitely match at base of groove then go to the arete with your left and hug it.
In reply to mbh:
Yeah, thought it might be something like that! Or that maybe it used to be just a summary of the objective data (number of routes, E points, miles run, etc.).
Definitely better this way!
> I thought of dividing the number of E points per week by the average pace per mile and coming up with a parameter
Yeah, thought it might be something like that! Or that maybe it used to be just a summary of the objective data (number of routes, E points, miles run, etc.).
> Hence, all I do is summarise what seems to mean most to people, fool around, try to be nice and hope I don't upset anyone.
Definitely better this way!
In reply to mbh:
Thanks mbh.
mon: indoor routes. focusing mostly on doubling up routes for stamina as I'm currently strong enough for the routes I want to do but not fit enough. Also had the pleasure of watching Jake (joughton) cruise effortlessly up the routes I pointed out as "hard" to him.
Wed: Indoor routes again, another stamina session whereby we'd do two routes back to back but trying to keep them relatively hard (so 7b followed by 7a+ etc). Beasted afterwards.
Thurs: yoga
Nothing else wholesome, had a weekend of unhealthy raving at a castle so it'll be interesting to find out what that's done to my overall wellness come next week.
Thanks mbh.
mon: indoor routes. focusing mostly on doubling up routes for stamina as I'm currently strong enough for the routes I want to do but not fit enough. Also had the pleasure of watching Jake (joughton) cruise effortlessly up the routes I pointed out as "hard" to him.
Wed: Indoor routes again, another stamina session whereby we'd do two routes back to back but trying to keep them relatively hard (so 7b followed by 7a+ etc). Beasted afterwards.
Thurs: yoga
Nothing else wholesome, had a weekend of unhealthy raving at a castle so it'll be interesting to find out what that's done to my overall wellness come next week.
In reply to The Fox: cheers mate. Steve had posted on fb. Will try and sort childcare.
In reply to AJM:
Was thinking of asking for cash for Christmas off family and using it for spain so that could be a goer. Hope to see you then if not before.
I am always worth a shout for midweeks up north. Weekends will take a bit more sorting due to kids/visits etc.
Was thinking of asking for cash for Christmas off family and using it for spain so that could be a goer. Hope to see you then if not before.
I am always worth a shout for midweeks up north. Weekends will take a bit more sorting due to kids/visits etc.
In reply to biscuit: finally some ok miles.. and seem to be coping OK. Opted not to race this weekend as still a few issues.. but some progression.
m: 10 miles 6:45 pace
t: am: 6 miles pm: 4 miles with 5 k at sub 6 min pace
w: 10 miles 7:20 pace
t: 4 miles, drove back from denmark
f: 13.3 miles 7:00 pace
s: 11.1 miles 7:20 pace
s: 15.1 miles 7:20 pace
m: 10 miles 6:45 pace
t: am: 6 miles pm: 4 miles with 5 k at sub 6 min pace
w: 10 miles 7:20 pace
t: 4 miles, drove back from denmark
f: 13.3 miles 7:00 pace
s: 11.1 miles 7:20 pace
s: 15.1 miles 7:20 pace
In reply to mbh:
Looks like you had a good week... Like you say you can feel strong and that you're going fast until you look at your watch and realise the reason why is you're going 10secs per mile slower than you should be!
With road races and pacing I guess it's all about getting into a stride and staying in it. I do a lot of repetitive counting on mine - something which I probably got used to in my musical youth. Some people use metronomes (or maybe before the advent of GPS watches anyway?).
M: 9mile run up Mt Eden 7:10pace
T: 7.5mile run with 3 at 5:50pace
W: 5mile run up Mt Eden 7:20pace
T: 5mile run up Mt Eden 7:30pace
F: 6.5mile run up Mt Eden 7:15pace
S: 15mile run in Dunedin including the 'World's steepest street'. 7:15pace overall without that street, 7:20 with it.
S: 4mile walk up Mt Eden and 3mile run 6:50pace.
Looks like you had a good week... Like you say you can feel strong and that you're going fast until you look at your watch and realise the reason why is you're going 10secs per mile slower than you should be!
With road races and pacing I guess it's all about getting into a stride and staying in it. I do a lot of repetitive counting on mine - something which I probably got used to in my musical youth. Some people use metronomes (or maybe before the advent of GPS watches anyway?).
M: 9mile run up Mt Eden 7:10pace
T: 7.5mile run with 3 at 5:50pace
W: 5mile run up Mt Eden 7:20pace
T: 5mile run up Mt Eden 7:30pace
F: 6.5mile run up Mt Eden 7:15pace
S: 15mile run in Dunedin including the 'World's steepest street'. 7:15pace overall without that street, 7:20 with it.
S: 4mile walk up Mt Eden and 3mile run 6:50pace.
In reply to Eagle River:
Cheers Steve! You obviously couldn't here my power-whimpers from across the wall, I definitely wasn't cruising!
> (In reply to mbh)
>
>Also had the pleasure of watching Jake (joughton) cruise effortlessly up the routes I pointed out as "hard" to him.>
Cheers Steve! You obviously couldn't here my power-whimpers from across the wall, I definitely wasn't cruising!
In reply to mbh:
Thanks for doing the stats again.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 4lbs (no change)
M - fingerboarding
T - T - Rest
F - core
S - Rest
S - fingerboarding
Crappy week really. Didn't keep to the diet. Did some poor quality fingerboarding. Decent core work out tho. 90 moves on the warm up. 270 moves (failed on the final set). Then pull ups on the fingerboard, 4, 3, 3. Aiming to do 15 in full control, lower fully and then slowly up to the bar and down. Hope to get out bouldering this week. Also got to get the diet done properly.
Thanks for doing the stats again.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 7lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 4lbs (no change)
M - fingerboarding
T - T - Rest
F - core
S - Rest
S - fingerboarding
Crappy week really. Didn't keep to the diet. Did some poor quality fingerboarding. Decent core work out tho. 90 moves on the warm up. 270 moves (failed on the final set). Then pull ups on the fingerboard, 4, 3, 3. Aiming to do 15 in full control, lower fully and then slowly up to the bar and down. Hope to get out bouldering this week. Also got to get the diet done properly.
In reply to mbh: Reflecting is all I've done this week. Nice comments for everyone there - thanks for putting the effort in.
Think I went to the wall on Wed, yep, top roped some stuff then went in the boulder room. Did try a 6c and am exactly were I was 6 months ago. No progress, just neater and weaker.
Friday evening, went for a boulder and sacked it off. Got on the campus rail with a foot on and marveled at how weak I've become due to not doing this as often as I was.
Got the climbing blues for some reason.
Think I went to the wall on Wed, yep, top roped some stuff then went in the boulder room. Did try a 6c and am exactly were I was 6 months ago. No progress, just neater and weaker.
Friday evening, went for a boulder and sacked it off. Got on the campus rail with a foot on and marveled at how weak I've become due to not doing this as often as I was.
Got the climbing blues for some reason.
In reply to biscuit: cheers biscuit,
You might be interested in the rucksack club evening meets. We alternate between MCC and AW Stockport on Wednesday evenings during the winter (first and third Wednesdays of each month are MCC, second and fourth Wednesdays are AW). There's usually a pretty decent turnout so its likely there'll be someone to team up with, everyone's nice and friendly and there's always a post-session pub trip. You don't have to sign up or anything, but it would be a good way to meet new climbing partners around the Manchester area.
You might be interested in the rucksack club evening meets. We alternate between MCC and AW Stockport on Wednesday evenings during the winter (first and third Wednesdays of each month are MCC, second and fourth Wednesdays are AW). There's usually a pretty decent turnout so its likely there'll be someone to team up with, everyone's nice and friendly and there's always a post-session pub trip. You don't have to sign up or anything, but it would be a good way to meet new climbing partners around the Manchester area.
In reply to mbh:
A quick check i'm from me; my job has moved to Manchester once i'm home from the red, so I'll be another one looking for midweek evening partners for awesome walls Stockport.
Trip wise, it's been a mixed bag. Full write-up another time, but the summary is that lurgy and antibiotics drained my energy for most of the first week. I've recharged the batteries with a double rest day and now hope that I've got the beans to on-sight a 5.13a...?
A quick check i'm from me; my job has moved to Manchester once i'm home from the red, so I'll be another one looking for midweek evening partners for awesome walls Stockport.
Trip wise, it's been a mixed bag. Full write-up another time, but the summary is that lurgy and antibiotics drained my energy for most of the first week. I've recharged the batteries with a double rest day and now hope that I've got the beans to on-sight a 5.13a...?
In reply to Joughton:
Cheers Jake gives me options for another eve during week and childcare.
Cheers Jake gives me options for another eve during week and childcare.
Checked my weight and body fat at the start of the week. 10 Stone 5 Pounds and shocked to find out I'm at 6% body fat without actually trying to achieve this!
Monday:
Lunch - Rock Ring pull-ups
Set 1: Large: 6 Medium: 6 Small: 4
Set 2: Large: 7 Medium: 6 Small: 6
Set 3: Large: 7 Medium: 6 Small: 4
10 Wide grip pull ups
10 Jug pull ups
3 x 20 crunches
20 dips
35kg Deadlift - 10 reps
Tuesday:
Lunch -
10 Wide Grip Pull-ups
20 Weighted Crunches (10kg)
10 Dips
15 Press Ups
15 Bicep Curls - 12.5kg
10 Arnie Press's - 12.5kg x 2
10 Hammer Curls - 12.5kg
10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening - Pantymwyn Bouldering - Warmed up doing a V4/6B+ I've never done in a few goes. Then managed "Singed" (V6/7A) after a few goes after failing on the last move last week. A cool 15 move problem!
Wednesday:
Lunch - 10 Wide Grip PullUps
10 Dips
3 x 20 Crunches
3 x 15 Bicep Curl (12.5kg)
2 x 10 Shoulder front raises (10kg)
Rock Ring pull-ups:
Set 1 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 2 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Evening:
Our son's first birthday! Had a little party, psyched!
Thursday: Rest
Friday:
Lunch - Monster session!
Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 2 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 3 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 4 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 3reps
3 x 10 Wide grip pull-ups
3 x 10 Dips
5 x 20 Swiss Ball Crunches
4 x 10 Reverse curls (10kg)
4 x 10 Bicep curls (17.5kg)
4 x 10 Tricep curls (12.5kg)
4 x 10 Shoulder front raises (12.5kg)
3 x 5 Deadlifts (70kg)
2 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Saturday: Rest (DOMS DOMS DOMS)
Sunday: Cromlech Boulders with the little one, he enjoyed the mud and stones!
Did - The Ramp (V1), Browns Crack (V1), The Slopes (V3), Pocket Wall Direct (V4) & finally got on it and did the classic Heel Hook Traverse (V4) Great problem took a few goes!
A very full week training wise, still feel weak on the bouldering. Guess it'll take time to get back into after a long summer sport climbing!
Monday:
Lunch - Rock Ring pull-ups
Set 1: Large: 6 Medium: 6 Small: 4
Set 2: Large: 7 Medium: 6 Small: 6
Set 3: Large: 7 Medium: 6 Small: 4
10 Wide grip pull ups
10 Jug pull ups
3 x 20 crunches
20 dips
35kg Deadlift - 10 reps
Tuesday:
Lunch -
10 Wide Grip Pull-ups
20 Weighted Crunches (10kg)
10 Dips
15 Press Ups
15 Bicep Curls - 12.5kg
10 Arnie Press's - 12.5kg x 2
10 Hammer Curls - 12.5kg
10 Hanging Leg Raises
Evening - Pantymwyn Bouldering - Warmed up doing a V4/6B+ I've never done in a few goes. Then managed "Singed" (V6/7A) after a few goes after failing on the last move last week. A cool 15 move problem!
Wednesday:
Lunch - 10 Wide Grip PullUps
10 Dips
3 x 20 Crunches
3 x 15 Bicep Curl (12.5kg)
2 x 10 Shoulder front raises (10kg)
Rock Ring pull-ups:
Set 1 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 2 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Evening:
Our son's first birthday! Had a little party, psyched!
Thursday: Rest
Friday:
Lunch - Monster session!
Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 2 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 3 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 4reps
Set 4 - L: 8reps M: 8reps S: 3reps
3 x 10 Wide grip pull-ups
3 x 10 Dips
5 x 20 Swiss Ball Crunches
4 x 10 Reverse curls (10kg)
4 x 10 Bicep curls (17.5kg)
4 x 10 Tricep curls (12.5kg)
4 x 10 Shoulder front raises (12.5kg)
3 x 5 Deadlifts (70kg)
2 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises
Saturday: Rest (DOMS DOMS DOMS)
Sunday: Cromlech Boulders with the little one, he enjoyed the mud and stones!
Did - The Ramp (V1), Browns Crack (V1), The Slopes (V3), Pocket Wall Direct (V4) & finally got on it and did the classic Heel Hook Traverse (V4) Great problem took a few goes!
A very full week training wise, still feel weak on the bouldering. Guess it'll take time to get back into after a long summer sport climbing!
In reply to mbh:
STG (End of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Adventerous climbing on the isle of man in october
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man
This week's goals:
Make up for this weekend - Not Really
Notts beer festival (seems to counteract the last goal) - er sort of ..
Climb more than once - Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rokt. Bouldered abit. Bit is a shit show from me on lead wall nice air time though tired ciruit board session. Core session
T: rest
F: rest
S: The works - Rammed with freshers did okay on the yellow ciruict thinking it was 6A-6B+ turns out it was 6b-6C which made me feel better.
S: Awesome walls Sheff - bouldering nice session but its hard set the V1-V2 "warm ups" were very technical for steep ground warm ups. I think the setter may have a large ape index ... Then did a few of the blacks V2-V3 felt about right for the grades. Tried a few reds V4-V5 which felt hard for the grade. short session but felt worked its really steep
Next week Goals:
Get out on rock
Climb E2
do something adventurous
Not the best week finger fell slightly tweaky so going to rest them for a couple of days. Isle of man at the weekend
> grubes - is no fan of Woodhouse, but has a plan to train power for Font. Hope the elbow niggle does not flare up.
STG (End of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Adventerous climbing on the isle of man in october
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man
This week's goals:
Make up for this weekend - Not Really
Notts beer festival (seems to counteract the last goal) - er sort of ..
Climb more than once - Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rokt. Bouldered abit. Bit is a shit show from me on lead wall nice air time though tired ciruit board session. Core session
T: rest
F: rest
S: The works - Rammed with freshers did okay on the yellow ciruict thinking it was 6A-6B+ turns out it was 6b-6C which made me feel better.
S: Awesome walls Sheff - bouldering nice session but its hard set the V1-V2 "warm ups" were very technical for steep ground warm ups. I think the setter may have a large ape index ... Then did a few of the blacks V2-V3 felt about right for the grades. Tried a few reds V4-V5 which felt hard for the grade. short session but felt worked its really steep
Next week Goals:
Get out on rock
Climb E2
do something adventurous
Not the best week finger fell slightly tweaky so going to rest them for a couple of days. Isle of man at the weekend
In reply to mbh: cheers MBH.. you're packing in the miles big time! will you do some sessions on the treadmill over the winter or will that bore you to tears?
In reply to mbh: Thankyou, I seem to be stacking up busy weeks at the moment which isn't especially helping the training! A couple of rehearsals got cancelled last minute meaning I could've got climbing if I had my stuff but ah well
STG (next few weeks): keep climbing as much as possible, do a pullup, stick to the diet, don't loose sight of the enjoyment side
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
M: band
T: supposed to be orchestra, that got cancelled so had a rest day as still broken from weekend
W: rehearsal cancelled in afternoon, didn't have climbing stuff and ended up stuck in work until 8 then meeting climbers at the pub (oops)
T: too tired after work (need to stop letting this be an excuse)
F: girl at work passed her viva, went drinking
S: works session, as grubes said it was very busy with uni groups getting rained off the grit, worked ok but I really struggle to focus on a problem when I have people waiting just behind me to get on the wall. Then drank a bit too much (that's not good for the diet)
S: checked out awesome walls sheffield, nice centre but the bouldering was all a bit steep (I'd forgotten my harness)had about an hours intense session working the two lowest circuits which wasn't bad for hungover climbing. Spent about as long watching people on the big lead overhang from the viewing platform and playing on the slackline
So not an amazing week, a few too many excuses for my liking! This next week my rehearsal schedule is pretty much every night so gotta try and work around that but we have fresher day trips at the weekend so hopefully I'll get on it then.
STG (next few weeks): keep climbing as much as possible, do a pullup, stick to the diet, don't loose sight of the enjoyment side
MTG (before winter): 6a bouldering regularly, keep leading trad (been over a month now so back to VDiff's) get on some sport and train hard when indoors, get in shape for font!
LTG (over next 6/9 months): get to know my technique and style, push through to HS trad, try and boulder 6b get on some sport
M: band
T: supposed to be orchestra, that got cancelled so had a rest day as still broken from weekend
W: rehearsal cancelled in afternoon, didn't have climbing stuff and ended up stuck in work until 8 then meeting climbers at the pub (oops)
T: too tired after work (need to stop letting this be an excuse)
F: girl at work passed her viva, went drinking
S: works session, as grubes said it was very busy with uni groups getting rained off the grit, worked ok but I really struggle to focus on a problem when I have people waiting just behind me to get on the wall. Then drank a bit too much (that's not good for the diet)
S: checked out awesome walls sheffield, nice centre but the bouldering was all a bit steep (I'd forgotten my harness)had about an hours intense session working the two lowest circuits which wasn't bad for hungover climbing. Spent about as long watching people on the big lead overhang from the viewing platform and playing on the slackline
So not an amazing week, a few too many excuses for my liking! This next week my rehearsal schedule is pretty much every night so gotta try and work around that but we have fresher day trips at the weekend so hopefully I'll get on it then.
In reply to mbh:
last week for me... mojo back for baboo baboo... got that excited feeling.. really enjoying the process of seeing small but significant gains during each session.. trying to reflect on my experiences on mescalito to see where i could speed the process up.. i am making the same mistakes.. possibly overly respecting the route because of it's grade and venue.. feeling embarrassed to lead (in case i bottle out) and that's knocking me back weeks sometimes.. i realise i have probably been at a stage of starting to red point BB a few weeks ago, i could do the moves right away and link enough to get enough out of leading.
i also consider most of my outdoor sessions as training rather than performance.. the places i indoor climb don't give me what i need to make the imporvements for malham routes.. hence he wall in the garage plan.
my main draw back is clipping positions .. not run outs or hard moves.. so this winter will have to consist of a hell of a lot more clip dropping. gulp!
sunday-
malham.. top roped BB.. felt ok.. climbed a lot to the point where i was dreading my last go i felt so tired.. a common thing.
monday-
rest (no walk as finished work late)
tuesday
off work.. malham.. warm up on consenting and then BB.. bolt to bolted most of about from two of the bolts on the head wall. then trying to making longer links on TR, improvements through crux and hea wall. pm turbo in garage
wed
pm interval training on bike and core at gym
thurs
malham.. consenting for warm up, bolt to bolted most of it again, practised rests... the rests are defo rests .. it now feels doable. pm turbo in garage
fri
int training on bike in gym, core, pull ups on finger board (jugs and giggest slots for three-four fingers) about 180 reps inc 4 sets of about 17 reps with weight vest withover a stone in it.. then back to ones without weights.. felt like i was flying) endurance bouldering for 40 mins.
weights in the gym afterwards and soem more pull ups for biceps
sat- walk.run up ingleborough PM weights and core in garage
sunday- interval training on bike then working bouldering problems.. warm ups on v2-3 and best effort linked most of a v5/6
this week's plans... no rest day until wednesday.. experimenting with when my rest day should be to make the most out of thursday and friday days off for malham
BB this week- workout clipping position for head wall. clip at crux at the flat hold.. this time without the extra sling as my emotional crutch (because it won't be part of any red point attempt.. it'll make me tired trying to do an extra clip) longer links from ground and use rests properly
maybe climb at another crag over the week if the weather allows
last week for me... mojo back for baboo baboo... got that excited feeling.. really enjoying the process of seeing small but significant gains during each session.. trying to reflect on my experiences on mescalito to see where i could speed the process up.. i am making the same mistakes.. possibly overly respecting the route because of it's grade and venue.. feeling embarrassed to lead (in case i bottle out) and that's knocking me back weeks sometimes.. i realise i have probably been at a stage of starting to red point BB a few weeks ago, i could do the moves right away and link enough to get enough out of leading.
i also consider most of my outdoor sessions as training rather than performance.. the places i indoor climb don't give me what i need to make the imporvements for malham routes.. hence he wall in the garage plan.
my main draw back is clipping positions .. not run outs or hard moves.. so this winter will have to consist of a hell of a lot more clip dropping. gulp!
sunday-
malham.. top roped BB.. felt ok.. climbed a lot to the point where i was dreading my last go i felt so tired.. a common thing.
monday-
rest (no walk as finished work late)
tuesday
off work.. malham.. warm up on consenting and then BB.. bolt to bolted most of about from two of the bolts on the head wall. then trying to making longer links on TR, improvements through crux and hea wall. pm turbo in garage
wed
pm interval training on bike and core at gym
thurs
malham.. consenting for warm up, bolt to bolted most of it again, practised rests... the rests are defo rests .. it now feels doable. pm turbo in garage
fri
int training on bike in gym, core, pull ups on finger board (jugs and giggest slots for three-four fingers) about 180 reps inc 4 sets of about 17 reps with weight vest withover a stone in it.. then back to ones without weights.. felt like i was flying) endurance bouldering for 40 mins.
weights in the gym afterwards and soem more pull ups for biceps
sat- walk.run up ingleborough PM weights and core in garage
sunday- interval training on bike then working bouldering problems.. warm ups on v2-3 and best effort linked most of a v5/6
this week's plans... no rest day until wednesday.. experimenting with when my rest day should be to make the most out of thursday and friday days off for malham
BB this week- workout clipping position for head wall. clip at crux at the flat hold.. this time without the extra sling as my emotional crutch (because it won't be part of any red point attempt.. it'll make me tired trying to do an extra clip) longer links from ground and use rests properly
maybe climb at another crag over the week if the weather allows
In reply to mbh:
Newbie, sorry for not posting on a Sunday.
STG: Rubicon
MTG: F6c flash, solid v5 inside & out.
Mon: Recover from 10k race on Sunday.
Tuesday: Boulder MK big rock
2x20 press ups feet on gym ball
4x frenchies on rock rings
4x lock offs ala ukb training for climbing video.
Boulder 2hrs
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday:Boulder MK big rock
2x20 press ups feet on gym ball
4x frenchies on rock rings
4x lock offs
Stick dyno on v3/v4 problem very happy
boulder 2hrs
Friday: Rest
Saturday: 3x6 40kg deadlift
3x10 fingercurls 4kg
3x20 dumbbell wrist strength exercises
Beastmaker app F5B workout foot on chair
Sunday: Boulder Castle
1.5 hours
3x3 v2
session v5
3x6 scull crushers 20kg.
Newbie, sorry for not posting on a Sunday.
STG: Rubicon
MTG: F6c flash, solid v5 inside & out.
Mon: Recover from 10k race on Sunday.
Tuesday: Boulder MK big rock
2x20 press ups feet on gym ball
4x frenchies on rock rings
4x lock offs ala ukb training for climbing video.
Boulder 2hrs
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday:Boulder MK big rock
2x20 press ups feet on gym ball
4x frenchies on rock rings
4x lock offs
Stick dyno on v3/v4 problem very happy
boulder 2hrs
Friday: Rest
Saturday: 3x6 40kg deadlift
3x10 fingercurls 4kg
3x20 dumbbell wrist strength exercises
Beastmaker app F5B workout foot on chair
Sunday: Boulder Castle
1.5 hours
3x3 v2
session v5
3x6 scull crushers 20kg.
In reply to biscuit: does that include mid week malham sessions?
In reply to mbh: Ta very much. Currently wearing my commemorative tshirt with pride.
Recover week from HM; right foot started hurting late on Sunday night, by Monday I was worried I'd broken something, but it started to go off on Wednesday. Still, don't think I'll be running for the time being.
M: nothing
Tu: cycle 14 miles
W: cycle 14 miles; gym - deadlifts, benchpress
Th: nothing
F: cycle 16 miles; bouldering at the Biscuit Factory
Sa, Sun: Hiking in the lake district
Still feel the nagging end of this cold, but really keen to crack on and get back into my gym and climbing routine. Need to make an overarching plan though to take me through the next few months.
Recover week from HM; right foot started hurting late on Sunday night, by Monday I was worried I'd broken something, but it started to go off on Wednesday. Still, don't think I'll be running for the time being.
M: nothing
Tu: cycle 14 miles
W: cycle 14 miles; gym - deadlifts, benchpress
Th: nothing
F: cycle 16 miles; bouldering at the Biscuit Factory
Sa, Sun: Hiking in the lake district
Still feel the nagging end of this cold, but really keen to crack on and get back into my gym and climbing routine. Need to make an overarching plan though to take me through the next few months.
In reply to mbh:
Cheers mbh. Mostly stuck at the plan this last week, though a tweaked shoulder (from moving heavy stuff around at work, not climbing, doh!) meant I missed a couple of the climbing sessions. It's feeling a bit better now, might go to the wall tonight.
Several bike commutes - 3 days I think?!
M: Core & pushups
T: Leeds Wall: 5x up/down/up, mostly up 6a/down 5/up 6a. Felt fine, though much MUCH harder on overhangs which has certainly defined a weak point for me. Pull-ups after.
W: Rest
T: Barn: On for 5-10-10-10-5 mins on a mix of overhanging jugs (hard) and vertical crimps (not so hard).
F: Core session & push ups
S: Nothing really, though helping a friend move so lots of boxes and stairs!
S: Run. Tried to do intervals but my legs just wouldn't work. 20mins at 'normal' pace instead!
This week: 3 wall/fb sessions, 2 core/push up, 1 longer run, 1 intervals. Eat & sleep better as this last week was shocking. Actually do something at the weekend (though only Sunday free).
Cheers mbh. Mostly stuck at the plan this last week, though a tweaked shoulder (from moving heavy stuff around at work, not climbing, doh!) meant I missed a couple of the climbing sessions. It's feeling a bit better now, might go to the wall tonight.
Several bike commutes - 3 days I think?!
M: Core & pushups
T: Leeds Wall: 5x up/down/up, mostly up 6a/down 5/up 6a. Felt fine, though much MUCH harder on overhangs which has certainly defined a weak point for me. Pull-ups after.
W: Rest
T: Barn: On for 5-10-10-10-5 mins on a mix of overhanging jugs (hard) and vertical crimps (not so hard).
F: Core session & push ups
S: Nothing really, though helping a friend move so lots of boxes and stairs!
S: Run. Tried to do intervals but my legs just wouldn't work. 20mins at 'normal' pace instead!
This week: 3 wall/fb sessions, 2 core/push up, 1 longer run, 1 intervals. Eat & sleep better as this last week was shocking. Actually do something at the weekend (though only Sunday free).
In reply to annak:
Is the pain in the top of your foot? I've been getting this after any long runs (more than a couple of hours), hurts to walk a bit, really hurts to pull your toes up. Seems to go away after 4 or 5 days, but comes back on the next long run... I've very unscientifically self-diagnosed it as extensor tendonitis for which the only cure is rest/ice, annoyingly...
>
> right foot started hurting late on Sunday night, by Monday I was worried I'd broken something, but it started to go off on Wednesday. Still, don't think I'll be running for the time being.
> right foot started hurting late on Sunday night, by Monday I was worried I'd broken something, but it started to go off on Wednesday. Still, don't think I'll be running for the time being.
Is the pain in the top of your foot? I've been getting this after any long runs (more than a couple of hours), hurts to walk a bit, really hurts to pull your toes up. Seems to go away after 4 or 5 days, but comes back on the next long run... I've very unscientifically self-diagnosed it as extensor tendonitis for which the only cure is rest/ice, annoyingly...
In reply to maria85:
I get that as well. My wife got it really badly once as well. It's just something you have to rest it seems.
> (In reply to annak)
> [...]
>
> Is the pain in the top of your foot? I've been getting this after any long runs (more than a couple of hours), hurts to walk a bit, really hurts to pull your toes up. Seems to go away after 4 or 5 days, but comes back on the next long run... I've very unscientifically self-diagnosed it as extensor tendonitis for which the only cure is rest/ice, annoyingly...
> [...]
>
> Is the pain in the top of your foot? I've been getting this after any long runs (more than a couple of hours), hurts to walk a bit, really hurts to pull your toes up. Seems to go away after 4 or 5 days, but comes back on the next long run... I've very unscientifically self-diagnosed it as extensor tendonitis for which the only cure is rest/ice, annoyingly...
I get that as well. My wife got it really badly once as well. It's just something you have to rest it seems.
In reply to mbh:
Here is a brief run-down of my trip to Kalymnos (Tried to make it as concise as possible so not to bore you to death!):
Week 1
T - Arrived
F - Symplagathes – Homo Sapiens (6c), Igel direct (7a) and Iason (6b+) on-sight. Did Ermix (7a) first redpoint after missing a hold on the on-sight.
S - Secret Garden - Warmed up on Ballos (7a+) thinking it was 6c, not a great warm-up! Did Stigmata (7b) first red point - thin, bouldery crux and then on-sighted Bourre mais pas pleine (7b+) by the skin of my teeth. First 'proper' 7b+ on-sight.
S - Olympic wall: On-sighted Biloute (7a), Tornando Lou (7b) and Saule (7a+)
M – Prothitis Andreas – Woke up late. Managed to on-sight Prothitis Andreas (7a) before the sun came round. Beach.
T- Went to Arhi in the morning - resembled a climbing wall on a winters night - very busy! Warmed up on Poseidon (6c) and then tried Eros (7b+) - basically a horrible, polished boulder problem followed by an easier finish. Seemed totally over-rated to me so stripped it. Went to E.T. in the afternoon – On-sighted Ibiscus (6b+), Et Defi Fit (6c), Manu (7a) and Zupp le Pinquoin (6c).
W- Secret Garden - Warmed up on Ricounet (6c+) and then tried Kaly Diva (7c) - got it on the 3rd red point - really cool route with a technical vert wall, with a couple of desperate moves on slopey holds and then a steeper wall with big moves to good pockets and some tufa squeezing to finish. First 7c away from the UK. Finished by on-sighting Mayumba (7a+).
T- Cave – Felt tired. Failed on the on-sight attempt of Saroman (7a+). Then fell off the top of Eirini (7c) on the on-sight – hard, bouldery finish. Worked out the move but fell off on the redpoint going for the final hold. Decided to call it a day.
F- Saint Photis – On-sighted Ikare (7a+), Oups (7a) and Captain Correli (6c+).
S-Rest Day
S-Took the boat to Telendos. Went to Pescatore in the morning. Warmed up putting the clips in Amores Perros (7c+). Worked some of the moves but struggled with the crux span to the sloper. After a rest, managed to find a better way of holding the poor, slopey sidepull for the left hand which made the span a lot easier. Worked all the other moves. On the first redpoint fell off on the final tufa as I didn't catch the sloper correctly, two moves form easier ground! Gutted but pretty happy to be so close on the first redpoint. Sun was coming round so stripped it and went to Eros - fell off Eros Telendos (7b) low down on the flash attempt but got it first redpoint.
Week 2
M – Summertime – Warmed up on Vlassis House (6c+) and then fell off A Room With A View (7b) after 36m of climbing! The last 4m being a boulder problem. Got it fist redpoint. Then on-sighted Nikolas Ext. (7a+) – another 40m monster with the hard bit in the last 3metres!! Tried K tsi K (7b+). Very bouldery and the sharpest holds ever. Decided to save my skin.
T- Woke up to dark, foreboding skies. Went to Ouriana. On-sighted Haralampos (7a), though more like 6c, and then did Klettern Paradise (7b) first redpoint after making a silly mistake on the on-sight. Started to rain so moved to the cave and tried Ouriana (8a). Utterly desperate! Felt like a V6 boulder problem into easier 7b climbing, followed by a V5 boulder, then some easier climbing, and another V5 boulder to finish! Managed to most of the moves but definitely nowhere near trying it on the redpoint. Wrist started to hurt.
W – Secret Garden – Warmed up on Magirosos (6c+) and Remetzo (6c), felt tired and an old tendon problem was showing its head again. Tried L’Insoutenable (7b) which was easy climbing with a hard boulder problem crux. Stripped. Tried to on-sight Chein Juane (7b+), fell at the roof going for the wrong hold. Felt really tired so stopped there.
T – Odyssey – Never really liked this sector for some reason, could be that its always rammed! Warmed up on Highway Island (6c) and then had a terrible on-sight attempt at Kultiristika (7b). Fell off at the crux. Tendon was still hurting slightly. Beach.
F- Prophitis Andreas – on-sighted Bonjour Viessiele (6b) and Hellini (7a+) – both incredibly sharp! Tried Torcicolo (7c+) – hideous boulder problem on sharp holds followed by technical moves on even sharper holds. Didn’t like in the slightest so stripped.
S- Arginonta – Arms beginning to hurt. Warmed up on Red Sea Secrets (7a). Fell at the boulder crux on Fire Wall (7b+). Got it first redpoint. Started to get really busy so called it a day.
S – T – Went to the islands of Patmos and Lipsi for some relaxation and to escape the Festival in Kalymnos.
F – Back to the UK – depressed.
S – Nothing – too depressed.
S – A lacklustre boulder at UCR.
Positives – 7b+ on-sight and first 7c abroad. Very close to 7c+ on first redpoint. Lots of nice routes and managed to avoid the masses on the whole.
Negatives – But disappointed not to get the 7c+, especially as I felt I had enough juice left to do the final hard moves but made a mistake with my footwork. Still find it hit-and-miss to on-sight anything above 7a+. Needs some work. Didn’t get on Dani boy as it was always rammed. Though we did manage to avoid the crowds most of the time, it also means that I missed out trying some of the “classics”.
So, back to reality. With the change of the seasons and the inevitable seepage, it’s time to concentrate on bouldering more and try and tick some projects at Huntsham and in Devon and the Peaks.
Here is a brief run-down of my trip to Kalymnos (Tried to make it as concise as possible so not to bore you to death!):
Week 1
T - Arrived
F - Symplagathes – Homo Sapiens (6c), Igel direct (7a) and Iason (6b+) on-sight. Did Ermix (7a) first redpoint after missing a hold on the on-sight.
S - Secret Garden - Warmed up on Ballos (7a+) thinking it was 6c, not a great warm-up! Did Stigmata (7b) first red point - thin, bouldery crux and then on-sighted Bourre mais pas pleine (7b+) by the skin of my teeth. First 'proper' 7b+ on-sight.
S - Olympic wall: On-sighted Biloute (7a), Tornando Lou (7b) and Saule (7a+)
M – Prothitis Andreas – Woke up late. Managed to on-sight Prothitis Andreas (7a) before the sun came round. Beach.
T- Went to Arhi in the morning - resembled a climbing wall on a winters night - very busy! Warmed up on Poseidon (6c) and then tried Eros (7b+) - basically a horrible, polished boulder problem followed by an easier finish. Seemed totally over-rated to me so stripped it. Went to E.T. in the afternoon – On-sighted Ibiscus (6b+), Et Defi Fit (6c), Manu (7a) and Zupp le Pinquoin (6c).
W- Secret Garden - Warmed up on Ricounet (6c+) and then tried Kaly Diva (7c) - got it on the 3rd red point - really cool route with a technical vert wall, with a couple of desperate moves on slopey holds and then a steeper wall with big moves to good pockets and some tufa squeezing to finish. First 7c away from the UK. Finished by on-sighting Mayumba (7a+).
T- Cave – Felt tired. Failed on the on-sight attempt of Saroman (7a+). Then fell off the top of Eirini (7c) on the on-sight – hard, bouldery finish. Worked out the move but fell off on the redpoint going for the final hold. Decided to call it a day.
F- Saint Photis – On-sighted Ikare (7a+), Oups (7a) and Captain Correli (6c+).
S-Rest Day
S-Took the boat to Telendos. Went to Pescatore in the morning. Warmed up putting the clips in Amores Perros (7c+). Worked some of the moves but struggled with the crux span to the sloper. After a rest, managed to find a better way of holding the poor, slopey sidepull for the left hand which made the span a lot easier. Worked all the other moves. On the first redpoint fell off on the final tufa as I didn't catch the sloper correctly, two moves form easier ground! Gutted but pretty happy to be so close on the first redpoint. Sun was coming round so stripped it and went to Eros - fell off Eros Telendos (7b) low down on the flash attempt but got it first redpoint.
Week 2
M – Summertime – Warmed up on Vlassis House (6c+) and then fell off A Room With A View (7b) after 36m of climbing! The last 4m being a boulder problem. Got it fist redpoint. Then on-sighted Nikolas Ext. (7a+) – another 40m monster with the hard bit in the last 3metres!! Tried K tsi K (7b+). Very bouldery and the sharpest holds ever. Decided to save my skin.
T- Woke up to dark, foreboding skies. Went to Ouriana. On-sighted Haralampos (7a), though more like 6c, and then did Klettern Paradise (7b) first redpoint after making a silly mistake on the on-sight. Started to rain so moved to the cave and tried Ouriana (8a). Utterly desperate! Felt like a V6 boulder problem into easier 7b climbing, followed by a V5 boulder, then some easier climbing, and another V5 boulder to finish! Managed to most of the moves but definitely nowhere near trying it on the redpoint. Wrist started to hurt.
W – Secret Garden – Warmed up on Magirosos (6c+) and Remetzo (6c), felt tired and an old tendon problem was showing its head again. Tried L’Insoutenable (7b) which was easy climbing with a hard boulder problem crux. Stripped. Tried to on-sight Chein Juane (7b+), fell at the roof going for the wrong hold. Felt really tired so stopped there.
T – Odyssey – Never really liked this sector for some reason, could be that its always rammed! Warmed up on Highway Island (6c) and then had a terrible on-sight attempt at Kultiristika (7b). Fell off at the crux. Tendon was still hurting slightly. Beach.
F- Prophitis Andreas – on-sighted Bonjour Viessiele (6b) and Hellini (7a+) – both incredibly sharp! Tried Torcicolo (7c+) – hideous boulder problem on sharp holds followed by technical moves on even sharper holds. Didn’t like in the slightest so stripped.
S- Arginonta – Arms beginning to hurt. Warmed up on Red Sea Secrets (7a). Fell at the boulder crux on Fire Wall (7b+). Got it first redpoint. Started to get really busy so called it a day.
S – T – Went to the islands of Patmos and Lipsi for some relaxation and to escape the Festival in Kalymnos.
F – Back to the UK – depressed.
S – Nothing – too depressed.
S – A lacklustre boulder at UCR.
Positives – 7b+ on-sight and first 7c abroad. Very close to 7c+ on first redpoint. Lots of nice routes and managed to avoid the masses on the whole.
Negatives – But disappointed not to get the 7c+, especially as I felt I had enough juice left to do the final hard moves but made a mistake with my footwork. Still find it hit-and-miss to on-sight anything above 7a+. Needs some work. Didn’t get on Dani boy as it was always rammed. Though we did manage to avoid the crowds most of the time, it also means that I missed out trying some of the “classics”.
So, back to reality. With the change of the seasons and the inevitable seepage, it’s time to concentrate on bouldering more and try and tick some projects at Huntsham and in Devon and the Peaks.
In reply to Garrouli:
Sounds like a great trip, tons of ticks! Top effort on the 7b+ on-sight and first 7c abroad!
Sounds like a great trip, tons of ticks! Top effort on the 7b+ on-sight and first 7c abroad!
In reply to mattrm, maria85:
Yeah, the top of my right foot, halfway between the centre of my foot and the outside edge. Hurt to walk normally, ie flex my foot, but I could hobble around by curling my whole foot over so only the top of my toes and my heel were touching the ground.
It's on the same side as my dodgy ankle and sore hip though, I suspect they're related and I run all wonkily.
Yeah, the top of my right foot, halfway between the centre of my foot and the outside edge. Hurt to walk normally, ie flex my foot, but I could hobble around by curling my whole foot over so only the top of my toes and my heel were touching the ground.
It's on the same side as my dodgy ankle and sore hip though, I suspect they're related and I run all wonkily.
In reply to Luke Owens:
Thanks Luke! Always feel like I could have done better when I finish a holiday, but it looks better when you write the routes you've done down!
Thanks Luke! Always feel like I could have done better when I finish a holiday, but it looks better when you write the routes you've done down!
In reply to Garrouli:
Too hard on yourself! You've done more in two weeks than most people do in a year!
UK 8a on the cards soon?
Too hard on yourself! You've done more in two weeks than most people do in a year!
UK 8a on the cards soon?
In reply to Luke Owens:
I would like to hope so though I the problem I have is that I get distracted far to easily, so struggle to spend more than a day on a route. And all the 8's i've tried in the UK so far are going to require far more time than that!
Need to be a bit more focused like some people on here.
I would like to hope so though I the problem I have is that I get distracted far to easily, so struggle to spend more than a day on a route. And all the 8's i've tried in the UK so far are going to require far more time than that!
Need to be a bit more focused like some people on here.
> maybe climb at another crag over the week if the weather allows
who are you and what have you done with PPG???
I thought I'd start doing this again, after a long break. Be prepared for considerable I-ran-on-a-road-a bit-and-then-I-ran-on-a-road-again tedium.
Square brackets are rolling 7 day totals. I'm aiming at 45 miles or so per week. Sometimes a bit more. No big plans, apart for some a local cross country series.
M: [43.9] 6.5 miles road and path
T: [43.9] 6 miles road am, 4.9 miles road pm
W: [43.9] 4.9 miles road am, 3 miles road pm
T: [46.6] 11.7 miles towpath and road with last 4 in 6:45,6:43,6:49 and 6:25
F: [55.6] 7 miles road am, 2 miles road am a bit later
S: [57.4] 11.4 miles including 40 mins reps, grass, little hilly bits
S: [57.4] -
Square brackets are rolling 7 day totals. I'm aiming at 45 miles or so per week. Sometimes a bit more. No big plans, apart for some a local cross country series.
M: [43.9] 6.5 miles road and path
T: [43.9] 6 miles road am, 4.9 miles road pm
W: [43.9] 4.9 miles road am, 3 miles road pm
T: [46.6] 11.7 miles towpath and road with last 4 in 6:45,6:43,6:49 and 6:25
F: [55.6] 7 miles road am, 2 miles road am a bit later
S: [57.4] 11.4 miles including 40 mins reps, grass, little hilly bits
S: [57.4] -
In reply to The Fox: that just isn't funny!
i actually climbed at a few different crags sincing tickeing mescalito, as follows:
cold stone buttress
robin proctor
dib scar
i actually disliked mahlahm on the week commencing the 30th september and didn't get there until the sunday of that week i don't think
when you coming over or are you still grinding away at something at kilnsey with boy wonder?
i actually climbed at a few different crags sincing tickeing mescalito, as follows:
cold stone buttress
robin proctor
dib scar
i actually disliked mahlahm on the week commencing the 30th september and didn't get there until the sunday of that week i don't think
when you coming over or are you still grinding away at something at kilnsey with boy wonder?
In reply to Garrouli: awesome tripulation
> (In reply to mbh)
> I need to learn how to use the GPS watch to help me here.
> I need to learn how to use the GPS watch to help me here.
I set the big part of the display to show lap average, and get it to auto-lap every mile. So looking at my watch tells me my time for the current mile if I carry on running at the pace that I've been running this mile for so far. The aim is then to keep it as close as possible to target mile time. The lower half of the display shows last lap average (because otherwise if I forget to look at the end of the mile I don't know what pace it was), and total distance.
In reply to Mark Torrance:
Hi Mark,
Good to see you here again.
Thanks for that. I tried something like that today, for the first time, but only had the last lap pace and total distance showing. I realised that I do also want the pace of the current lap, as you suggest, so I will add that too to the display for next time. Whether my eyes can read three things on the display while out on a run, however, I don't know! I'll find out.
Anyway, this training lark - something is working. I knocked 5 minutes off a PB for a hilly 10 mile route today, set only a week ago. I think I am now daring to try to go as fast as all these miles are enabling me to go. That, or I was just lazy before. Further, I find I am now top of two Strava leader boards on that route. Neither is Box Hill, mind, each having only one other competitor, but top is top.
Hi Mark,
Good to see you here again.
Thanks for that. I tried something like that today, for the first time, but only had the last lap pace and total distance showing. I realised that I do also want the pace of the current lap, as you suggest, so I will add that too to the display for next time. Whether my eyes can read three things on the display while out on a run, however, I don't know! I'll find out.
Anyway, this training lark - something is working. I knocked 5 minutes off a PB for a hilly 10 mile route today, set only a week ago. I think I am now daring to try to go as fast as all these miles are enabling me to go. That, or I was just lazy before. Further, I find I am now top of two Strava leader boards on that route. Neither is Box Hill, mind, each having only one other competitor, but top is top.
In reply to pork pie girl:
It would, but give me one evening with freezing rain and I will probably succumb. I found the treadmill to be good for interval running and just plain flat-out-faster-than-I-ever-seem-to-manage-outside running. Busyness with setting the pace every interval and an ipod helped to pass the time, I found. Without the ipod I would otherwise have to listen to the thrash metal of the salubrious college gym I use.
> (In reply to mbh) cheers MBH.. you're packing in the miles big time! will you do some sessions on the treadmill over the winter or will that bore you to tears?
It would, but give me one evening with freezing rain and I will probably succumb. I found the treadmill to be good for interval running and just plain flat-out-faster-than-I-ever-seem-to-manage-outside running. Busyness with setting the pace every interval and an ipod helped to pass the time, I found. Without the ipod I would otherwise have to listen to the thrash metal of the salubrious college gym I use.
In reply to pork pie girl: still trying to get Comedy (me) and The Ashes (him) done but think the season is running out (if it hasn't already). We'll be there shortly and then settled in for the winter 😉
In reply to mbh:
There is some truth in that we are limited only by limitations we set ourselves...
> (In reply to Mark Torrance)
>
>
>
> Anyway, this training lark - something is working. I knocked 5 minutes off a PB for a hilly 10 mile route today, set only a week ago. I think I am now daring to try to go as fast as all these miles are enabling me to go.
>
>
> Anyway, this training lark - something is working. I knocked 5 minutes off a PB for a hilly 10 mile route today, set only a week ago. I think I am now daring to try to go as fast as all these miles are enabling me to go.
There is some truth in that we are limited only by limitations we set ourselves...
In reply to mbh:
cheers mbh.
STG: 7a or 7b in Spain in November
MTG: 7b indoors over winter
LTG: more trad next summer
Mon: nowt
Tues: Kilnsey, not doing much, just top roped easy routes.
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Kilnsey, baltic, rediscovered my pysche for Frankie and got on it again (top rope)
Fri: nowt
Sat: Langdale race day, nervous.. but I got round in 3 hours 30 mins and was NOT timed out!
Sun: nowt
So chuffed to get round Langdale in well under 4 hours. I was expecting to get timed out at worst, 4 hours at best, so I'm chuffed to bits.
Did nothing all week otherwise, no harm done hopefully. I need to push on with Frankie and get off the top rope but I suspect last week was my last chance this year.
And thanks everyone for all the tips and encouragement for the race. I really appreciate it, this fitclub thing is ace! It really helped .
cheers mbh.
STG: 7a or 7b in Spain in November
MTG: 7b indoors over winter
LTG: more trad next summer
Mon: nowt
Tues: Kilnsey, not doing much, just top roped easy routes.
Weds: nowt
Thurs: Kilnsey, baltic, rediscovered my pysche for Frankie and got on it again (top rope)
Fri: nowt
Sat: Langdale race day, nervous.. but I got round in 3 hours 30 mins and was NOT timed out!
Sun: nowt
So chuffed to get round Langdale in well under 4 hours. I was expecting to get timed out at worst, 4 hours at best, so I'm chuffed to bits.
Did nothing all week otherwise, no harm done hopefully. I need to push on with Frankie and get off the top rope but I suspect last week was my last chance this year.
And thanks everyone for all the tips and encouragement for the race. I really appreciate it, this fitclub thing is ace! It really helped .
In reply to mbh: Couple of Malham sessions, did Hartley Hare in the first one, then spent the second working Something Stupid. Found having multiple goes on something this hard for me was a real work out. Still, have a sequence of sorts so need to try and deploy it while fresh next time out.
M:
T:
W:
T: Hartley Hare RP, had to try a bit harder on this than some of the 7a's I have done recently; and a go on Something Stupid
F:
S: Working Something Stupid
S:
STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
M:
T:
W:
T: Hartley Hare RP, had to try a bit harder on this than some of the 7a's I have done recently; and a go on Something Stupid
F:
S: Working Something Stupid
S:
STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)
MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working
LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
In reply to mbh: you definitely need some good music to train indoors.. it improves my pace loads, interval training also improves my pace but makes workouts go a bit faster usually.. it hurts more but doesn't drag on as much... problem is with listening to your own music and pushing yourself hard is that sometimes i don't realise that i'm talking to myself ..'come on girl' or 'for **cksake i'm **cked' and there's nowhere suitable to shoot the one nostril snot shots other than down your own top.
In reply to Sankey: glad you enjoyed SS sankey.. it's a good route isn't it? not that i want to go on it again... but the groove (in my dreams) looks very very inspiring.
In reply to Nomics4sale: brilliant effort with the run nomics.. we didn't doubt you for a second
are you making good links on frankie? not much rain forecast this week so it could be on again for you.
are you making good links on frankie? not much rain forecast this week so it could be on again for you.
In reply to The Fox: comnedy looks a great route.. forecast this week doens't look too bad in terms of rain.. should still be on for this weekend for you both.
winter group motivation will be great for malham.
winter group motivation will be great for malham.
In reply to pork pie girl and mbh:
Cheers .
Re Frankie, not sure what links are or if I am making them but I had a good session on it last week. Only problem is that I haven't actually had a go at the top section yet. It's quite hard to work that bit on top rope so I haven't bothered. Need to tho, obviously. Good to see you're doing well on BB. Have you got a timetable for different progress markers or are you just trucking through?
Cheers .
Re Frankie, not sure what links are or if I am making them but I had a good session on it last week. Only problem is that I haven't actually had a go at the top section yet. It's quite hard to work that bit on top rope so I haven't bothered. Need to tho, obviously. Good to see you're doing well on BB. Have you got a timetable for different progress markers or are you just trucking through?
In reply to Nomics4sale: no timescales really just setting mini goals each week.. not expecting to get it this season.. if i knew i definitely would get dry for the next few weeks i think i'd tick it. i generally feel quite relaxed about it, i'm enjoying the process more than mescalito because i'm finding it easier to do the moves consistently and i haven't put myself under any pressure... i also think the actually ticking of a route sometimes can be a bit of an anti climax in comparison to how i expect how i'll feel .. i tend to feel relieved rather than really really chuffed. i think once i can tick harder (for me) routes quicker i'll get more of a buzz. it just feels a bit odd being on an 8a (soft end 8a) and not totally getting my backside kicked.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Links are what they sound like - linking up sections and moves between rests on the rope. For example, on Frankie a crucial link for me was climbing from the ledge above the start to the big undercut you rest on by the 4th bolt. The top of Frankie is actually fine - a bit tenuous on the feet but the moves are probably only 5c and there's a hands off rest at the top of the Balas corner before you do them. The trick is to climb up into the corner then move left to the belay (getting a foot bridged out behind you before you reach left helps) - think people who go too direct have a hard time.
Like you I'm hoping I haven't missed the window for it this year - it does dry quickly though compared to the rest of the crag so I wouldn't write it off yet.
> not sure what links are or if I am making them
Links are what they sound like - linking up sections and moves between rests on the rope. For example, on Frankie a crucial link for me was climbing from the ledge above the start to the big undercut you rest on by the 4th bolt. The top of Frankie is actually fine - a bit tenuous on the feet but the moves are probably only 5c and there's a hands off rest at the top of the Balas corner before you do them. The trick is to climb up into the corner then move left to the belay (getting a foot bridged out behind you before you reach left helps) - think people who go too direct have a hard time.
Like you I'm hoping I haven't missed the window for it this year - it does dry quickly though compared to the rest of the crag so I wouldn't write it off yet.
In reply to pork pie girl:
Thanks! Oh, another negative point I missed was lack of control in having rest days. I only had one rest day in over 2 weeks of climbing which probably had a negative affect on my climbing towards the end, especially with old injury's appearing. I was discussing this with someone who suggested for a three week trip the best routine would to climb for 6-7 days, have 4-5 days rest and then climb for another 6-7 days. Not sure about this as 6-7 days of climbing is quite a lot and resting for to long may have an adverse affect on climbing performance. I thought that 3-4 days climbing, with 2 days rest inbetween would be move advantageous.
Anyone got any ideas on the best climbing/rest day ratio for a 2-3 week trip?
Thanks! Oh, another negative point I missed was lack of control in having rest days. I only had one rest day in over 2 weeks of climbing which probably had a negative affect on my climbing towards the end, especially with old injury's appearing. I was discussing this with someone who suggested for a three week trip the best routine would to climb for 6-7 days, have 4-5 days rest and then climb for another 6-7 days. Not sure about this as 6-7 days of climbing is quite a lot and resting for to long may have an adverse affect on climbing performance. I thought that 3-4 days climbing, with 2 days rest inbetween would be move advantageous.
Anyone got any ideas on the best climbing/rest day ratio for a 2-3 week trip?
In reply to Garrouli:
For a short trip I'd usually do 2-3 on, 1 off (2 mainly if its trying hard redpointing - for onsighting or more of a mix and match I'd be more likely to do 3). By 3 weeks I'd be more tempted to throw a double rest day in there somewhere too. I find either my skin or my muscles doesn't usually last for more than 4 days on unless there's some significant variation in difficulty (ie active rest style climbing) and its quite skin friendly.
For a short trip I'd usually do 2-3 on, 1 off (2 mainly if its trying hard redpointing - for onsighting or more of a mix and match I'd be more likely to do 3). By 3 weeks I'd be more tempted to throw a double rest day in there somewhere too. I find either my skin or my muscles doesn't usually last for more than 4 days on unless there's some significant variation in difficulty (ie active rest style climbing) and its quite skin friendly.
In reply to Pagan:
Ah I haven't done that link yet, I can get to the 3rd bolt, make the move from the jug to the undercut then to the shite crimpy hold but I haven't decided which way to go from the crimp after the undercut. Which way do you go and how tall are you? I've tried direct up a series of crimpy holds then scooting right; it's quite hard but I can do it. But a friend goes right immdiately after the shite crimpy hold, that way is much better for your feet as your feet are on the big jug. Only problem is that I can't reach the holds from there and would have to use something truly shit for my feet instead, which makes me think that the harder left sequence might actually be easier for me. Any of this make any sense to you??
Ah I haven't done that link yet, I can get to the 3rd bolt, make the move from the jug to the undercut then to the shite crimpy hold but I haven't decided which way to go from the crimp after the undercut. Which way do you go and how tall are you? I've tried direct up a series of crimpy holds then scooting right; it's quite hard but I can do it. But a friend goes right immdiately after the shite crimpy hold, that way is much better for your feet as your feet are on the big jug. Only problem is that I can't reach the holds from there and would have to use something truly shit for my feet instead, which makes me think that the harder left sequence might actually be easier for me. Any of this make any sense to you??
In reply to Nomics4sale:
I get the crimp and the jug next to it then go right and up to the half-moon with my feet on the jug by the 3rd bolt. I'm 6' though and it's pretty much the limit of my reach; a slightly shorter friend finds it desperate like that - like you say, if you can't stand on the jug there's not much else for your feet so if you've got an alternative sequence which works it's probably worth sticking with that.
I get the crimp and the jug next to it then go right and up to the half-moon with my feet on the jug by the 3rd bolt. I'm 6' though and it's pretty much the limit of my reach; a slightly shorter friend finds it desperate like that - like you say, if you can't stand on the jug there's not much else for your feet so if you've got an alternative sequence which works it's probably worth sticking with that.
In reply to Pagan:
Yep, my thoughts too. There is another little ledge for your feet above the jug but I can't reach from there either and the other footholds aren't even worth thinking about (for me anyway, at 7b+).
Isn't it time you signed up for the fitclub thing?
Yep, my thoughts too. There is another little ledge for your feet above the jug but I can't reach from there either and the other footholds aren't even worth thinking about (for me anyway, at 7b+).
Isn't it time you signed up for the fitclub thing?
In reply to mbh:
Cheers dude!
A better week this week due to having a well deserved week off work. Nice, varied and the walking / cycling with my misses was lovely. A nice week which has helped clear my thoughts and provide a reset ready for winter training and fun!
Goals:
Maintain 142 lbs: ~141.5 lbs
STG:
Current Focus: Climb every problem at the Very Far Skyline Boulders (The Roaches). Aim: To improve my head on high-ish grit slabs and crack-lines and to improve my slab and crack technique.
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)
MTG (early 2014):
Lead any WI route in Rjukan
Improve winter experience
Get out to the Alps
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M: 10km mountain bike ride // 4x10 pushups // 4x10 situps
T:
W: 4x10 pushups // 4x10 situps
T:
F: A great 1hr bouldering session at Awesome Walls
S: Ramshaw soaking wet so practiced placing some gear at the bottom of the crag // 1.5hrs Swimming
S: 1hr Swimming // A great 1hr bouldering session at Awesome Walls
Cheers dude!
A better week this week due to having a well deserved week off work. Nice, varied and the walking / cycling with my misses was lovely. A nice week which has helped clear my thoughts and provide a reset ready for winter training and fun!
Goals:
Maintain 142 lbs: ~141.5 lbs
STG:
Current Focus: Climb every problem at the Very Far Skyline Boulders (The Roaches). Aim: To improve my head on high-ish grit slabs and crack-lines and to improve my slab and crack technique.
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)
MTG (early 2014):
Lead any WI route in Rjukan
Improve winter experience
Get out to the Alps
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M: 10km mountain bike ride // 4x10 pushups // 4x10 situps
T:
W: 4x10 pushups // 4x10 situps
T:
F: A great 1hr bouldering session at Awesome Walls
S: Ramshaw soaking wet so practiced placing some gear at the bottom of the crag // 1.5hrs Swimming
S: 1hr Swimming // A great 1hr bouldering session at Awesome Walls
In reply to Garrouli: something ike 3 on one off.. but the one of would involve a load of cycling and the 3 ion would also involve cycling before tea. too many routes and fun to be had to have too many days off
In reply to pork pie girl: Cheers for the use of the top rope last week. It is a good route, hopefully be on the sharp end next time. Was watching people try the groove between my goes on SS at the weekend, what a place to be, the reason we get into this stuff to start with I guess.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
Great effort with the race - looked like an excellent taper week before hand, well done in not getting tempted into 'one last run'!
Great effort with the race - looked like an excellent taper week before hand, well done in not getting tempted into 'one last run'!
In reply to mbh:
Thanks for doing fit club (yet) again.
Reading through everybody elses posts - the fitclub phsyc seems to be high at the moment!
This week:
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!
Autumn: Concentrate on local sport, see if I can work up to 7b, or HP E6
This winter - VI 7
Training:
M: pm - 45min general weights, 45min trail / road run
T: pm - 2hr PE / E traverses at wall - working black traverse which is pretty fingery. Climbed until 'powered' out
W: pm - 45min trail / road run
T: am - 4 x individual 7a traverses at the bridge - bloody cold all of a sudden! pm 4 x continual 7a traverses at the bridge
F: pm - 6 x continual traversing on 7a traverse at bridge. First time I've done this so chuffed!
S: Rest
S: 4hrs easy MTBing
As predicted didn't get on target route, (Blow Out,) this week but pleased with the training progressing towards doing it.
Hopefully get on it next weekend and have a proper look at the gear.
Thanks for doing fit club (yet) again.
Reading through everybody elses posts - the fitclub phsyc seems to be high at the moment!
This week:
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!
Autumn: Concentrate on local sport, see if I can work up to 7b, or HP E6
This winter - VI 7
Training:
M: pm - 45min general weights, 45min trail / road run
T: pm - 2hr PE / E traverses at wall - working black traverse which is pretty fingery. Climbed until 'powered' out
W: pm - 45min trail / road run
T: am - 4 x individual 7a traverses at the bridge - bloody cold all of a sudden! pm 4 x continual 7a traverses at the bridge
F: pm - 6 x continual traversing on 7a traverse at bridge. First time I've done this so chuffed!
S: Rest
S: 4hrs easy MTBing
As predicted didn't get on target route, (Blow Out,) this week but pleased with the training progressing towards doing it.
Hopefully get on it next weekend and have a proper look at the gear.
In reply to mbh:
M-Nothing - recovering
T-Short one hour session
W-Nothing - recovering
T-Nothing - recovering, Doc's check up.
F-Nothing - recovering
S-Park Run. 5K (19m 16s). Felt like I was going to be sick from 2K onwards. Short bouldering session in the evening and watched some live British basketball in the evening.
S-Nothing - recovering
Getting there. I think the biggest thing keeping me from getting better sooner is that I don't get enough sleep. Will have to wait until half-term. I am going to Font next Saturday though on a positive note.
M-Nothing - recovering
T-Short one hour session
W-Nothing - recovering
T-Nothing - recovering, Doc's check up.
F-Nothing - recovering
S-Park Run. 5K (19m 16s). Felt like I was going to be sick from 2K onwards. Short bouldering session in the evening and watched some live British basketball in the evening.
S-Nothing - recovering
Getting there. I think the biggest thing keeping me from getting better sooner is that I don't get enough sleep. Will have to wait until half-term. I am going to Font next Saturday though on a positive note.
In reply to AJM:
I don't know what aerocapping is(!) If it's endurance they yes, but it is a very specific 7a I've trained on for a while rather than being able to do that on any 7a.
I don't know what aerocapping is(!) If it's endurance they yes, but it is a very specific 7a I've trained on for a while rather than being able to do that on any 7a.
In reply to Exile:
Aerocap: "pumped but in control". Flushed, arms a bit sore bit never going solid, the kind of thing you can shake away without too much grief.
Between arc, which is easy entirely aerobic stuff, and low end aeropower which is concrete forearms boxed silly stuff.
Even if it's only on one, I think that's more than I could manage unless it was sprints between good shakeout positions perhaps.
Aerocap: "pumped but in control". Flushed, arms a bit sore bit never going solid, the kind of thing you can shake away without too much grief.
Between arc, which is easy entirely aerobic stuff, and low end aeropower which is concrete forearms boxed silly stuff.
Even if it's only on one, I think that's more than I could manage unless it was sprints between good shakeout positions perhaps.
In reply to Nomics4sale:
God no; I'm far too shy and retiring, not to mention lazy and inconsistent.
If you fancy a beta-swapping session on Frankie though then let me know - hopefully we'll be there at the weekend; it's looking promising(ish) at the moment...
> Isn't it time you signed up for the fitclub thing?
God no; I'm far too shy and retiring, not to mention lazy and inconsistent.
If you fancy a beta-swapping session on Frankie though then let me know - hopefully we'll be there at the weekend; it's looking promising(ish) at the moment...
In reply to Pagan:
Ha yes that's fair enough. I quite enjoyed having an excuse to do nothing last week!
Might be at Kilnsey too at the weekend, but the forecast for the peak isn't too bad so might do that instead.
Ha yes that's fair enough. I quite enjoyed having an excuse to do nothing last week!
Might be at Kilnsey too at the weekend, but the forecast for the peak isn't too bad so might do that instead.
In reply to mrchewy:
Neater is good! And weaker, well, if you can get up the same routes with less strength then something's working . Strength is apparently easy to train so you'll be able to get back anything you've lost quite quickly. And then being neater you'll fly up the problems!
Neater is good! And weaker, well, if you can get up the same routes with less strength then something's working . Strength is apparently easy to train so you'll be able to get back anything you've lost quite quickly. And then being neater you'll fly up the problems!
In reply to Exile:
Cheers! No problem at all not doing one last run... I am a couch potato masquerading as a keen noobie runner.
All that 7a traversing is going to really help on your route I bet. You'll be mega strong and fit when you get on it, hope you get a chance this week.
Cheers! No problem at all not doing one last run... I am a couch potato masquerading as a keen noobie runner.
All that 7a traversing is going to really help on your route I bet. You'll be mega strong and fit when you get on it, hope you get a chance this week.
In reply to AJM:
Ok, that's what I'm doing then. Fingery climbing that slowly pumps you out with occasional 'half rests' on the traverse.
I will reiterate that this is on a '7a' I know really well and suites my strengths though, (which is why I'm doing it as training for a route that suits my strengths,) not any 7a.
Ok, that's what I'm doing then. Fingery climbing that slowly pumps you out with occasional 'half rests' on the traverse.
I will reiterate that this is on a '7a' I know really well and suites my strengths though, (which is why I'm doing it as training for a route that suits my strengths,) not any 7a.
In reply to JimmyKay:
The 26th? We're heading out there for a week on the 26th! Can't wait!
> I am going to Font next Saturday though on a positive note.
The 26th? We're heading out there for a week on the 26th! Can't wait!
In reply to pork pie girl:
If I must
> (In reply to biscuit) does that include mid week malham sessions?
If I must
In reply to mbh: Sorry for late posting - busy week.
M - nowt, worked late
T - Street orienteering - 2nd lady - could possibly have picked up a few more points with better planning but not too bad.
W - nothing
T - nothing - though I did make flapjack, chocolate cookies, cheese and thyme biscuits and port and stilton truffles. Domestic goddess points!
F - nothing - nightmare 6hr drive to Worcestershire
S/S - weekend away with family - got about for a bit of a walk on Saturday (4hrs or so) but unfortunately weather was a bit rubbish. Lots of eating!
M - nowt, worked late
T - Street orienteering - 2nd lady - could possibly have picked up a few more points with better planning but not too bad.
W - nothing
T - nothing - though I did make flapjack, chocolate cookies, cheese and thyme biscuits and port and stilton truffles. Domestic goddess points!
F - nothing - nightmare 6hr drive to Worcestershire
S/S - weekend away with family - got about for a bit of a walk on Saturday (4hrs or so) but unfortunately weather was a bit rubbish. Lots of eating!
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