In reply to AlH:
Ha! but you would say that, as you need to make a living !
... free with experienced mates is obviously still best for the poorer rock climbers. Sound advice though for those with the will and the dosh (and some good pointers for all).
I've given up being 'rewarded' in that way (and never got paid) as I couldn't really do the guidebook work I wanted to and be heavily involved in a student club (with all the H&S gubbins they increasingly faced).
I miss the winter club trips where we did use guides more extensively: winter climbing is way more expensive in kit and petrol and I still think good advice saved more (in so many ways) than the initial (club subsidised) outlay. I also miss working with Cubby and Mr Ettle: great guys and highly recommended guides.