In reply to full stottie:
> (In reply to JoshOvki)
>
> That's helpful. As for indoor routes reflecting outdoor routes, you do quote the extremes - Echo Wall and a Mod, and I suppose generalising it may be fair, but some lower graded routes do require technique as well - I'm thinking of say Central or Right Hand Trinity at Stanage, or Black and Tan or Lorraine at Bowden, where your ability to get in the right position is as important as the number and size of holds available.
I always find it a bit weird when people use "technique" to mean "cunning tricks that you have to figure out". Even straight-ahead crank-fests without a toe-hook in sight are going to be a damn sight easier if you use the right body position and accurate footwork...
In any case, yeah, it seems to be an art and it's a hard one to get right, but it's great when people do.
Significant grumbles for me are:
* excessively cruxy routes
* excessively cruxy routes where the crux is the sit start
* tendon-killing pocket-pulling cruxes
* loads of routes in a given set using variations of the same basic "trick"
* lack of variety genrally
* routes that are more awkward because you have to avoid holds from other routes
* routes that wander into the same space as other routes on the same coloured holds
* routes with very similar coloured holds on the same panel.