In reply to grubes: Cheers grubes!
I would do a double update but my week prior to font was a stressful non-climbing mess which involved my car being in the garage for 4 days and getting loads of stuff ready for the Font trip. So I basically squeezed in 2 lunch sessions doing pull ups.
Ok so the trip... Sorry if this is long winded but you don't have to read it!
I didn't do anything remotely hard or do anything I planned on but I really enjoyed the trip (I didn't do anything harder than 6A!)
It was difficult to get on what I wanted when we had our 1 year old with us and I wanted to make sure my partner did plenty of climbing especially as she's very nervous.
Most days involved us not leaving the Gite until midday then being out until about 6pm. I'd make my girlfriend climbed what she wanted first then maybe have an hour or 2 trying to climb stuff way to hard for me towards the end of the day... It didn't really work out and felt pretty rushed.
F: Eve - Driving to Font
S: Arrived at Gite to rubbish weather felt wiped out.
S: More rain, partner not interested in climbing due to weather. Walked to show her the Cul du Chien everything was bone dry had no boots with me. Played in sand with the little one.
M: Partner didn't want to climb due to weather not looking too great so we went to Bas Cuvier. Climbed a load of Red's (~f5) felt nails. Did La Nescafe (6A+) really cool slab. Tried La Joker (7A) didn't get anywhere on it. Then proceeded to fall off the top of La Marie Rose (6A) ~20 times... Mega tired.
T: 95.2 - Not the best place for taking a 1 year old. Had planned on doing the orange circuit with my partner as it looked good in the book and easy. In reality it's a logistical nightmare with a child. Partner did some of the up problems from the circuit in the flat area we found and I tried Retour Aux Sources (7A) a few times in the sun but felt like I'd need ages on it to crack it so sacked it. Walked over to Le P'tit Toit (6B+) an incredible slopey traverse and had many rushed goes on it getting pumped and it was getting late so had to leave sans tick.
W: Elephant - Great place for the little one. Partner and I did some easy Orange and White problems. I got completely shut down on Le Surplomb de l'Éléphant (6A) dyno on the elephant boulder and felt like a punter.
Walked over to Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup (6B) Steep and juggy and couldn't get anywhere near doing it.
Went and did La Moreau (6A) 2nd go then tried La Voie Michaud (6C) and couldn't do the first move...
Walked over to Dalle à Poly (4C) basically a massive ~12m slightly over hanging juggy wall that looks like cheese! On-sighted it and was probably the best thing I did all week!
Then had a couple of goes on Le Coeur (7A) has a heart shaped hold on it! No luck though...
T: Went to Roche Aux Sabots so partner could have a go on the yellow circuit. Walked round it and she wasn't inspired and it didn't look great to be honest. Walked over to 91.1 and she liked the look of the Orange circuit there. I did 4 of them but mainly looked after the little one all day and took pictures while she enjoyed about 8 of the problems. Was psyched to see her enjoying the climbing and doing well.
Walked back to Sabots and in a rushed hour tried and didn't do:
L'Auriculaire (6A), Graviton (7A), Jet Set (7A). Then did some 5A and called it a day.
F: Partner wanted to do some work and offered to look after the little one for the day and said I should go out and get something ticked...
Drove to Cuvier to do Duroxmanie (6C) got there and it was raining, did OK on the flash but further 3 attempts I didn't get any higher then it hammered it down... Walked back to the car and no sign of it stopping. Drove to Isatis to have a look around, soaking, drove to Gorge Aux Chats couldn't find it and it was still raining so went home...
S: Went to Parc des Felin's and drove home.
S: Wiped out
I really enjoyed the trip and so did the family but I think I should of just concentrated on some easier stuff and I now know which area's are better for easier stuff for my partner and are flatter for the little one next time. I was also shocked at how crap I climbed and how weak I was...