UKC

NEWS: Vivian quarry major rockfall

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ab22 04 Nov 2013
http://www.gwynedd.gov.uk/gwy_doc.asp?doc=30977&Language=1&p=1&c=0

Just been sent this.


UKC News Edit - now added as a news item with some more photos http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68481
 Chris the Tall 04 Nov 2013
In reply to aled butler:
Don't know the area well, but isn't that Gin Palace ?
In reply to aled butler:

As far as I can tell there were no routes on the main section that has fallen down, but it has removed the top of Bobby's Groove, Weetabix Connection and most of Golden Shower.

Alan
 Sl@te Head 04 Nov 2013
In reply to aled butler:
Thanks for posting the link.

Really sad to see Bobby's Groove a *** 8a Johnny Dawes' Slate Classic suffering from rock fall.

The Weetabix Connection next to it was also a good route.

From the photos as Alan mentioned they've both lost their top sections so maybe all's not lost?

Just hope that no access restrictions are placed on Vivian Quarry as a knee jerk reaction from the council (though Barry Davies from the council is /was a climber and probably very supportive of the climbing community).
Flatus Vetus 05 Nov 2013
In reply to aled butler:

It's only slate, nothing important. I can see this making the quarry owners nervous, expect to see new fences in the near future.
Removed User 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Flatus Vetus:
> (In reply to aled butler)
>
> It's only slate, nothing important.



Yer right mate. Only some of the most iconic climbs in the histroy of UK climbing are to be found in the slate quarries. So nothing important at all.
 1poundSOCKS 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Flatus Vetus: It'd be sad if some of the classic slate routes fell down. There's so much history in the quarries.
In reply to aled butler: I'll bet it would have been fantastic to watch it go...from a distance!
pasbury 05 Nov 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
> (In reply to Flatus Vetus) It'd be sad if some of the classic slate routes fell down. There's so much history in the quarries.

Better get used to it I think, they are not the most stable of places. Looking on the bright side - every now and then a rockfall might reveal a classic.

 1poundSOCKS 05 Nov 2013
In reply to pasbury: New route potential, might get down there!
 Bulls Crack 05 Nov 2013
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
> (In reply to Flatus Vetus) It'd be sad if some of the classic slate routes fell down. There's so much history in the quarries.

It does rather go with the territory though
 1poundSOCKS 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack: Reading UKC and feeling sad?
 Steve nevers 05 Nov 2013
In reply to aled butler:

Not sure if i'd trust the lower off for To Bolt or Not To Be or Bobby’s Groove. Looking at those photos theres a huge lump of rock missing directly right and below of where the topo seems to show the lower off. In fact the whole top quarter of the routes between Booby's Groove and Weetabix Connection is gone!
 Connolly8684 08 Nov 2013
In reply to aled butler:

So some new first ascents up for grabs once made safe!
 Sl@te Head 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Connolly8684:

Went there for a look earlier today, definitely no potential for anything worthwhile.

Sadly Bobby's Groove looks like a very poor route now and not the 3 star route it used to be. I'm sure it's still hard and still has some very technical moves low down, it may well even retain the 8a grade, but it's no longer a classic.

The path round to Psychotherapy looks like it will need some time to settle down and will need care before it stabilises.

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