In reply to ianstevens:
> Having had a gander on-line at what's in the new North Wales rockfax, some of the grades given to certain routes seem ridiculous (mostly in the slate).
The difference between Ground Up and Rock fax is that when it came to grading routes and writing route descriptions GU consulted a large group of local slate activists. I'm not so sure that Rock fax consulted many local climbers (in this instance slate climbers), If they had the grades and selection of routes may well have been very different.
For example:
> Shorty's Dyno - not done this myself, but know many who have - I don't think any of them would give it 6a. It gets 7a both on here and in the slate guide!
Having said the above, 'Shorty's Dyno' is a very difficult route to grade accurately, it may well be only f6a for the tall, but for me it felt like a hard f7a at the time of the first ascent. Many routes on slate are very height dependant with advantages sometimes for the tall and other times for the short.
The latest Jingo Wobbly guide to font is refreshing in the fact that it gives 2 grades for some problems depending on height which is a sensible approach, very similar to what Mark has done with this route.
The clue for this particular route is in the name, and also in the route description on here...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=74374