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most climbed route in the uk?

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ashbid 08 Nov 2013
just wondering what people think?i think its got to be ordinary route on idwal?if people want please leave views...
In reply to ashbid:

FlyingButtress, Stanage - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/graphs.html

Followed by a few other Stanage routes.

Little Chamonix at Shepherds is the highest non-grit route. Ordinary Route Idwall is 10th in the non-grit list.

Alan
 Offwidth 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid:

20 foot crack burb north would be way more likley as a possible contender. This thread has been done to death though over the years.
 Offwidth 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

I've done FB about 5 times; 20 foot crack about 50.
 Jon Stewart 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid:

Got to be one of the Stanage Vdiffs like Flying Buttress. Shame, 'cause that one's a crap route. Hollybush Crack and Heaven Crack are both great though.
 Offwidth 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth: Actually thinking more, double FB and add a couple of tens to TFC.
 Jon Stewart 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Yes, good point. I do 20ft Crack every time I go to Burb North, as will many boulders who warm up on that wall. Whereas I've only done FB a couple of times, it doesn't feature on my regular pottering round.
 1poundSOCKS 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax: Love those graphs. How do you log over 8 thousand climbs, and still have time to climb?
 Offwidth 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart: I warmed up there and also did laps on occasion to cement in jamming skills (as with the less popular Dog-Leg at Curbar)
 Jon Stewart 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Offwidth:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart) I warmed up there and also did laps on occasion to cement in jamming skills (as with the less popular Dog-Leg at Curbar)

Of course The Real 20ft Crack is way better for jamming skills (and I think Dog-Leg might be the hardest of the 3...)
ashbid 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid: thanks for the reply's and i know this has been asked before but i was just wondering.
 salancaster 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid: Consenting Adults, Malham. Done most days all year round many, many times. Ever dry, even in heavy rain, not many routes can be climbed as many days a year. I reckon that or Free and Even Easier. It seems like an odd suggestion given the grades but I can't remember ever going to Malham and not either doing them or seeing a rope on them.
 CurlyStevo 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
where is southern sandstone on your graph?
 ByEek 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
> (In reply to ashbid)
>
> FlyingButtress, Stanage - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/graphs.html
>
> Followed by a few other Stanage routes.
>
> Little Chamonix at Shepherds is the highest non-grit route. Ordinary Route Idwall is 10th in the non-grit list.
>
> Alan

Most climbed or most logged?
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH)
> where is southern sandstone on your graph?

It isn't my graph, it is your graph, or the graph of UKC users logged climbs. Southern Sandstone will be there but not with the same level of ticking.

Alan
ashbid 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ByEek: most climbed
 CurlyStevo 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH:
well harrisons is the 6th most popular non grit crag. I wonder if people just aren't as keen logging southern sandstone as its just top roping?
 GrahamD 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid:

My guess its a crag used for group use where the ascents will never get logged. Possibly at Harrisons or Bowles.
 CurlyStevo 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD:
snap
 CurlyStevo 08 Nov 2013
In reply to GrahamD:
I find it hard to believe Three Pebble Slab get's more ascents than dark chimney or even unclimbed wall etc.
 deacondeacon 08 Nov 2013
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH)
> where is southern sandstone on your graph?

It's a graph for most logged routes, not most log routes

J1234 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid: I would guess it`s one of the descents at Stanage which is a Mod or a Diff, but mainly downclimbs.
In reply to ashbid:

I'd have a guess it is something like Consenting Adults at Malham or one of the other warm up routes there.
 salancaster 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid: Question is 'most climbed' not most logged. I would hope not everyone logs every single route they do, repeat, warm up on etc. on here.
ashbid 08 Nov 2013
In reply to salancaster: amen!
 AlanLittle 08 Nov 2013
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Curses! I'm missing one of the grit and one of the non-grit top ten routes. Even though I've only been to four of the top ten non-grit crags - Horseshoe Quarry being one of the four, sadly.
ashbid 08 Nov 2013
In reply to AlanLittle:good job i did this then?
 DerwentDiluted 08 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid:

I'd second 20ft crack, I very rarely repeat stuff but must have done it at least 30 times, only logged it once though. I see I am slipping in the rankings from 4th a while ago to 9th now. Must either get out more or start logging all my repeats, seconds and failure. Failures alone could put me in the top 5!
 Brass Nipples 08 Nov 2013
In reply to salancaster:
> (In reply to ashbid) Question is 'most climbed' not most logged. I would hope not everyone logs every single route they do, repeat, warm up on etc. on here.

In which case if it's not logged then you are just speculating based on nothing but thin air.
 Offwidth 08 Nov 2013
In reply to sjc: good call never thought of that!
In reply to CurlyStevo:
> (In reply to GrahamD)
> I find it hard to believe Three Pebble Slab get's more ascents than dark chimney or even unclimbed wall etc.

You've got to be right on that score (with those, or e.g Long Layback, Bow Window, Isolated Buttress or Hell Wall). Simply because it's so much faster to set the ropes up.
 Dave Musgrove 09 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid:

I haven't checked the graphs but I suspect that some of the routes on the south west face at Almscliff could be contenders for the most climbed. They have all been known about for well over 100 years (first published guide came out in 1913) and Almscliff is pretty much an all year round crag.

Because there are less routes here than at Stanage and the SW face is short, ever-dry and soloable routes like Birds Nest Crack, Traditional Climb and 3 chockstones chimney could well be near the top of the list. I'm pretty sure I've done Birds Nest at least 300 times and will have descended 3 chockstones chimney well over 1000 times during solo sprees within the last 49 years.
 craig h 09 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Musgrove:

I'm surprised know one has suggested 'The North Face of the Uxbridge Road'; it must see many ascents every day, and probably in better style these days now it has gone free.

Footage from the first ascent http://tinyurl.com/3xwkpq
 Jon Stewart 09 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Musgrove:

There are a lot less (sorry, fewer) regular soloists at Almscliff than Stanage and Burbage though. As much as I love soloing on grit, I never got into it at Almscliff because it's so thuggy and polished. I was surprised when I was a regular visitor how few potterers there were. And there's just so few climbers in Yorkshire generally compared to the Peak. I wouldn't want to hazard a guess as to why...
 deacondeacon 09 Nov 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart: Lots of boulderers and few climbers. Hmm, makes sense to me.
 Jon Stewart 09 Nov 2013
In reply to deacondeacon:

I was even surprised by how few boulderers I would see at the Glen of an evening.

But yeah at Almscliff, eliminates on eliminates around Crucifix Traverse were popular, as was the super-hard stuff round the Keel (never saw anyone finish a problem there). Funny place...
 Dave Musgrove 09 Nov 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart: I agree that there are probably more soloists regularly operating in the peak but then there are so many more soloable crags and hundreds more routes at each crag all within easy reach of Sheffield which means there is less need to repeat the same routes. I've soloed hundreds of routes on Peak grit myself but each time I went to Stanage I would start on a different sector. There are less good solo crags with less routes each within easy reach of Leeds/Bradford so Almscliff does get a hammering. I always tend to leave my gear on the same boulder at Almscliff and start with the same warm-up solo circuit along the SW face. Lots of others used to do the same in the 70s and 80s but I agree probably less so now as most are wimpy boulderers who don't like getting too high?
 Jon Stewart 09 Nov 2013
In reply to Dave Musgrove:

> most are wimpy boulderers who don't like getting too high?

Too wimpy for the Glen too. Shameful.
ashbid 10 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid: all in all i think its got to be something on stanage
In reply to ashbid: One of the traverses at Pexhill, I'd guess.

T.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 10 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid:


About 25 years ago a whole bunch of people used Wee Doris at Stoney to do laps on (on a top-rope) - I would guess it was getting 100+ ascents a day,


Chris
 johncook 10 Nov 2013
In reply to ashbid: Maybe Right Hand Trinity on Stanage. Always seems to have someone on it and others waiting.
(I do it everytime I'm there because it is the first [H]S route I ever lead. Still use exactly the same gear, which amuses/terrifies friends and spectators, and is often a good talking point. (2 x moacs, 1 x clog hex and 2 x nylon slings. I do use ally crabs now, they were steel back in the day!)
 JamButty 10 Nov 2013
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
> (In reply to ashbid)
>
> FlyingButtress, Stanage - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/graphs.html
>
> Followed by a few other Stanage routes.
>
> Little Chamonix at Shepherds is the highest non-grit route. Ordinary Route Idwall is 10th in the non-grit list.
>
> Alan

If you link Xmas curry with the Micah finish, it catapults itself to #3!!



 Bulls Crack 10 Nov 2013
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to ashbid)
>
>
> About 25 years ago a whole bunch of people used Wee Doris at Stoney to do laps on (on a top-rope) - I would guess it was getting 100+ ascents a day,
>
>
> Chris

Do we have a figure sans top-rope ascents? Probably still the same ranking.
 GrahamD 12 Nov 2013
In reply to Bulls Crack:

There won't be any figures for outdoor groups' and schools' top rope ascents. Logged climbs is a pretty self selecting group of all routes climbed.

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