UKC

Ive been away from climbing for a while now but recently watched two guys at the Devils Gorge, Pantymwyn. The lead proceeded to clip every bolt within reach of his stick, allow his partner to take his weight between moves and basically get pulled up the route. How long has this been going on? Is it regarded as a completion of the route?

In reply to Jamsams:

Quite normal these days. Are you familiar with the term "redpoint"?

In reply to JLS: Never heard of Redpoint no. Like I said, Ive been away from climbing for a few years now. What struck me was the fact that there is absolutely no risk of taking a fall of any magnitude when climbing like this. Whats the general consensus with climbers who might do it properly?

In reply to Jamsams:

You'd have to ask the two guys as to if it was regarded as completion of the route.

In reply to needvert: In effect they were top roping. If its that common then im sure they, or anybody else using the technique, wont be claiming it as a lead. Or they shouldnt anyway. I'd imagine it would quite frustrating for someone who's led it cleanly.

In reply to Jamsams:

Have a read of this article - might help your understanding of redpointing tactics
http://www.mcofs.org.uk/assets/getactive/robbies%20beastings%20part5%20redp...

In reply to Stuart S: Will do.

In reply to Jamsams: So I suppose if they were working towards the route its acceptable. The fact that he seemed to be being hoisted up just seemed to be taking away the climbing element. I was more of a trad climber so im guessing I wont have seen clip sticks for that reason too.

In reply to Jamsams:

Bolts/clipsticks etc are just top roping for the trendy.

In reply to Jamsams:

Did he get to the top? That should answer your question.

No charge

In reply to Jamsams

Have any of you twits even looked as the OP's profile? The berk has been climbing about 3 minutes and is younger than some if my tampons. He's a troll FFS!!!!

In reply to Sally Bustyerface:

Are you sure looking at his profile he's 27 so I would hope he isn't younger than your tampons and based on the fact he registered several years back looks like like a lurker rather than a troll. Actually looking at your profile pretty much the same (except you have no kind of profile pic)

Or any profile are you a troll ?

In reply to The Pylon King:

You forgot the bit about how anything under 300m is just practice for the alps.

In reply to Jamsams:

Could be preplacing quickdraws if there is no ab available for him belayer to give it a climb, didn't want to make the moves and blow the on-sight?

In reply to Sally Bustyerface: Thanks for that,27 year old tampons,what an image!

In reply to Sally Bustyerface:

The cartoon which your user-name is from is one of the funniest I read in OTE. I still have the copy. ()

In reply to The Pylon King:

Better than shunting though.

In reply to Sally Bustyerface: Oh silly Sally Bustyerfaff......if only you'd cared to have checked out my registered date of 2004. I stopped climbing in 2011.
Seems you only come on here for confrontation.
As for being younger than some of your tampons I thought you'd have stopped using them by now anyway.

In reply to Jamsams:

To be fair to Sally, stick-clipping has been about since the 80s to work routes for red pointing. It certainly wasn't invented after 2011!

In reply to Jamsams:

"Onsight, naked, soloing. Anything else is a compromise."

The Soloing dude from the film The Sharp End (I think).

In reply to JIMBO:

I think carrying the clip stick up the route is more common now.

In reply to Jamsams: 'course it's cheating, what's the point. Either climb it or don't.

In reply to Jamsams:

does it matter if people are out enjoying themselves

In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
Climbing harder than 8a is also more common now too...

In reply to owennewcastle:

Is there a causative link do you think?

In reply to Jamsams:
Clip sticks are cheating in themselves.

Remember when we used to "climb" rocks.

In reply to stroppygob:

I thought it was mountains?

In reply to Jamsams:

I rather think a gentleman doesn't mention a ladies age, rumbled as she might be!

In reply to Jamsams:

But I still think the OP is a troll and that you are a bunch of twits, and quite possibly rotters.

In reply to Jamsams:

Also, has the OP climbed Jam with Sam at Peak Scar? If not I rather think he should. A rather fine heather belay IIRC.