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training for climbing on loose rock

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 ribtech 17 Nov 2013
would climbing on loose holds at the climbing wall be good training for climbing on the north Devon sea cliffs as i have heard there loose help!!
 Choss 17 Nov 2013
In reply to ribtech:

Holds stuck on with blu tack would be more like it
 Jon Stewart 17 Nov 2013
In reply to ribtech:

No. Climbing on loose rock just takes care/experience, you can't practice it. Also, there's plenty of stuff on the North Devon coast that isn't loose.
 Nick Russell 17 Nov 2013
In reply to ribtech: just train climbing with a really static style. A drill you can do for this is have your belayer shout 'stop' at random and you have to hold the exact position you're in for a few seconds.
 Jon Stewart 17 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

I think pushing rather than pulling is the best advice for climbing loose rock. Even if you're very static, if you're pulling out on dodgy holds, it may end in tears/death.
 Nick Russell 17 Nov 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart: True, I guess I'm thinking of the ability to stop (assuming you're on a solid hold) and grope around/dig for the next bit of solid rock.
 Jimbo C 17 Nov 2013
In reply to ribtech:

No. Climbing wall holds spin when they are loose - which can hurt your wrists. Loose rock just comes off (or if you're lucky moves a bit then stops!). Like Jon says, pushing rather than pulling on the rock works well. Just be really smooth and delicate. Be sure to tap/ whack holds to see if they sound loose/ move. For low angled stuff, it may be good training to practice climbing with a tennis ball in each hand (a game I've heard of but never tried).
 cuppatea 17 Nov 2013
In reply to ribtech:

Much of it is really solid. Some of it is so solid and featureless that you'll only need really small wires.

Have fun!
 Keendan 17 Nov 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Agreed

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