UKC

NEWS: VIDEO: Whittaker Climbs Sleepy Hollow, E10

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 UKC News 18 Dec 2013
Pete Sleepy Hollow, 3 kb

Last weekend, Pete Whittaker climbed the first ascent of one of Staffordshire Grit's Last Great Problems, the direct start to Headless Horseman, E1 5b, at The Roaches. It is a very bold and technical line, first tried by Simon Nadin, Pete has graded it around E10... 



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68592
 mav 18 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Can I be the first to congratulate him on a fine choice of name?
 Jimbo C 18 Dec 2013
In reply to mav:

Apparently you can. Yes, I thought that was a good choice of route name.

I love Pete's attitude - 'It was really windy so that was a big help'

Well done Pete.
 Offwidth 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Jimbo C:

To be fair I think he meant it was helpful in drying out a route that was minging when he arrived. Has an LGP ever been done in widier conditions? I loved the route name too.
 Jimbo C 18 Dec 2013
In reply to Offwidth:

Yeah, I was more thinking about how I would probably never even attempt a bold delicate climb in that wind.
 chrishedgehog 18 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Has Pete made the first ascent of a marshmallow or is the Lower Tier just looking even pinker than usual on my dodgy monitor?
 Jon Read 18 Dec 2013
In reply to chrishedgehog:

Sunset and a Canon 5dII sensor I think.
 The Pylon King 18 Dec 2013
In reply to mav:
> Can I be the first to congratulate him on a fine choice of name?

ok i am obviously missing something, why is the name so fine?
Post edited at 16:00
In reply to The Pylon King:

I suppose because they like the TV show.

jcm
 galpinos 18 Dec 2013
In reply to The Pylon King:
> (In reply to mav)
> [...]
>
> ok i am obviously missing something, why is the name so fine?

Headless horseman......
 The Pylon King 18 Dec 2013
In reply to galpinos:

Right ok, just googled, now i get it, sorry never heard of it before you see.

Yes good name.
In reply to UKC News:
Totally awe inspiring line.

Speaking of route names, this ascent sort of contributes to the quality "common misconception" E6 around the corner.

(It's a common misconception that all of the best lines on grit have been done.)
 andi turner 18 Dec 2013
In reply to chrishedgehog:

It was filmed pretty much in the dark. I panned across at the end, you can see the sun has set, it was a mega pink evening.

Amazing climbing! So chuffed to have seen this done! Well done Pete!!!
In reply to The Pylon King:

> Right ok, just googled, now i get it, sorry never heard of it before you see.

> Yes good name.

Ah yes - me too. Good name indeed.

jcm
In reply to andi turner:

> Amazing climbing! So chuffed to have seen this done! Well done Pete!!!

This too. Well, except for seeing it, sadly.

jcm

 Mutl3y 18 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Pete.
 northy1983 18 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:

nice one pete.
it was awesome to witness the real event.
oh and thanks for spelling my name right.... then say it wrong!!! which isant the first time either.

think an eastern invasion is due this winter.
 Wild Country 18 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News: Great ascent and great name!! And just to put it in context, as it's hard to tell on the film, Pete reckoned it was harder than Walk on By 7c+ at Curbar...which as we all know is pretty flippin' tricky..!!
 snapperdan 18 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Baron Greenback and now this!

Met him at MCC during a 5.10 demo and he's a really nice bloke too.
 MNA123 18 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Very impressive we were at the roaches for about 2hrs that morning waiting for it to dry out, we eventually gave up about hlf 12 and went the stride. I didnt believe John when he txt me and told me this had gone down that same day as the crag had been still gopping wet when we lft.
 Souljah 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Adam Moroz:

To be fair every piece of rock at the roaches that day was gopping wet, the 'Sleepy Hollow' arete included, right up to the last hour of sunlight.
The only reason it dried was due to that horrendous wind blowing straight in from over Leek... A time when only the keen and/or crazy go climbing LGP's!
 chrishedgehog 19 Dec 2013
In reply to andi turner:

Yes, looks like you nearly had to chuck him a head-torch - but if 40 mph gusts aren't deterring him a bit of dark's not going to put him off! Congrats on your recent project by the way. Probably good to get that one safely in the bank before he started sniffing around that one too!
 Smith42 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Richie Patterson, Wild Country:

Good effort, big grade.

What E grade would moves around Font 8a+ in the leg breaker or worse fall zone get?

(Just in case one of Northumberlands finest did such a route on the 1st Dec but was too modest to grade it!?)
 Jordan B 19 Dec 2013
In reply to Smith42:

Watson should give it e12!!!
 Wild Country 20 Dec 2013
In reply to Jordan: I am very intrigued...and you would have to say harder than E10...!!
Please spill the beans...?
Earworm 21 Dec 2013
In reply to UKC News:
Thank god the days when people thought it was wrong to drive to staffordshire and climb " someone else's " project are over well done Pete
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