In reply to neilwiltshire:
No we didnt,and it seems a very poor start to winter in norway too this year,and there dosent seem to have been much interest in rjukan on the forums either.
Hope all is well and thanks again for trying
In reply to cliff shasby:
Think the "old school hostel" have a conditions report on their web site. Google them. Sure if you email them they will be more than happy to give you an upto date forecast as well.
We're in Rjukan right now, not much ice about apart from Krokan and Gaustatoppen. Today was a little too warm even at Krokan, but the past couple of days have been OK for cragging. None of the large multi-pitch routes in Rjukan centre are in condition as far as we can see, and the ice falls in the upper gorge are thin (unprotectable). The first pitch of Sabateurfossen looks formed, but the rest isn't really there.
Apparently a little further north in the Valdres valley is in good condition, but we haven't been up there ourselves.
The climb inn looks closed, I think they're not posting updates because they have nothing to report unfortunately.
In reply to ollie_s:
Thanks..im just hoping it sorts itself out within 3 weeks otherwise we'll have to sack it.
I think this is the 9th year for me in rjukan and ive never seen it anywhere near as crap as this for the time of year,wtf is going on with this winter.
In reply to alan1234: Aww man that pic is horrible,i just cant believe its so bad for the time of year,one year there was a couple of places where the river could be seen but ive never seen it like that.
Thanks for the info,never knew about the tinn climbing club...
Conditions dont sort themselves out its gonna be the alps.
Is there anyone out there that has been to Rjukan at end of January and found conditions seriously crap? A history of the bad years would be interesting. Due out there for a few days end Jan /beginning Feb.
Not great, but Bullen, Jomfrau, Kjokkentrappa, Gaustaspokelse + a few more are all climbable, as it's generally been below freezing at Krokan despite the temperature in Rjukan centre. Problem is most other crags aren't in condition...
In reply to cliff shasby:
I can only imagine that Rjukan has been getting the back end of the wet but relatively mild low pressure systems taut have been sweeping over the UK. More of the same is forecast for the UK over the next couple of weeks... but I am no expert in these things. Whereas Cogne was pretty good already last week, so if I had a free choice I would head there or elsewhere in the Alps.
For other Norwegian conditions I've been up in Hemsedal for the last week but tbh Rjukan is a better bet. There is lots in (although only Haugsfossen for cragging I think) - but unless you have very wide skis for approaches be prepared for some seriously long walk-ins (I was going down to my neck in places breaking trail).
Krokan had about 4-6 routes to do but the weekend busyness and a bit of a thaw has occurred so conditions not great there.
Gaustatoppen ice falls could be climbed but the tops are banked out with lots of snow so be flexible on anchor choice. Also requires a hard yomp to get to if trail has not already been broken or snows have covered up existing trails.
Upper gorge - Had a look as far as Nedre Svingfoss. All routes require sustained cold to bring into acceptable condition although if you were determined enough you could probably struggle up lettvann.
It is forecast to get colder though but at the mo it's all a bit sparse. Off skiing tomorrow and will have a look at Rjukan centre and reassess gorge also.
>Also requires a hard yomp to get to if trail has not already been broken or snows have covered up existing trails.
You're telling me! We walked there earlier this week in windy horrible conditions only to turn around once we got there! Our tracks were covered after about 15 minutes so the return was pretty much just as bad
So, sustained cold snap is here with the temperature not really getting above -10 since yesterday. Climbs that we saw are improving in condition in the upper gorge but as yet they're still not in nick. With this cold spell it won't take long before they are.
We went back to Krokan which has seen a great improvement in conditions with now most routes in climbable shape.
Have been told that some climbs in lower gorge and rjukan centre are worth a look as likely to be doable. Subsequently we are off to try one of the longer multi pitch routes and fingers crossed it's in.
Heading home now and watching the time pass at Oslo Rygge airport.
Yesterday was last climbing day and we managed to do Fabrikkfossen and although it was a bit wet there was plenty of ice for climbing and belays. Route was climbed to top.
Temperature as of this morning when leaving was -8 and has been around this temp (sometimes as low as-15) for 4 days.
If the cold stays then it won't be too long before the majority of climbs are climbable. I went to upper gorge on Monday and there was stuff that could have been climbed but I didn't think it looked great. I'm sure that since then it's an improved picture.
Not sure about the other areas as asked.
All I can suggest is to keep monitoring the temperature. If it stays well below 0 then I'm sure that it'll be great in Rjukan within a week and even now there is some good climbing to be had.
Wonder if I could take a sideways step from thread and ask you something about the route to Rjukan from Rygge Moss, as we've always gone via Torp/Sandefjord. Is there tolls to pay and does it take around the 3 hours by car as calculated by RAC Route Planner?
We took the ferry from moss to Horton. This route was suggested by the car hire guy at the airport. The ferry goes frequently and I think it cost less than 50 NOK for 4 of us and car. I think it cuts off around 30 mins journey time as it bypasses Oslo. Also it bypasses toll roads too.
If you don't take the Moss-Horton ferry you'll go round Oslo and on to toll roads. All the tolls are automatic and there's no delay to travel when passing through the camera zone. Time is probably accurate too. Driving in Norway is painfully slow due not just to road conditions but more to speed limits.
Yep. Checked earlier and timetable runs 06.30 to 24.00 hours so it seems ferry is a possibility. The road looks as if it goes under Oslo-fjord (tunnel) which heads to Drammen and avoids Oslo altogether. A meal on board ferry though is an attractive option...
Just a quick update on how things are over here. Lots of routes in at Krokan and Ozzimosos tho it could do with the ice been a little fatter, routes tend to be a bit tough in place as the ice is quite vertical instead of been sloped in places. The biggest issue is the snow! It's chest deep if you are heading to any of the multi pitch routes, had to back off lower gorge twice as we couldn't get there. Done Bolgen today and the walk in was terrible and the ice was poor, stay away for a while. You can add an hour to most walk in times if your heading uphill to any climbs due to the snow.
Tried for lower gorge again today and had to turn back as we couldn't cross the stream. Went up to upper gorge, the path is well beaten and straight forward if you park at vermork bridge, one half of our group done Tracy's eyes, poor ice with snow on top. We did Nedre Svingfoss (good ice) and Letvan (a little banked with snow, but ice underneath). There were teams on Nye Vermorkfiss and sabotorfossen which both looked in good nick. It was -10 today and its been no higher than -5 since I got here on Thursday.
Lots of snow here at the moment. Waded/swam into the Lower Gorge - snow is chest deep a lot of the way in - it's a slog. Headed over to Krokan where it was busy but a lot to go at. Saying that though a fair bit of the area has not been accessed for a while and need a trail breaking. We climbed Jomfrua (WI 4) which was in excellent condition, as was Bullen and the other popular Krokan lines. Pics here: https://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents
Haha, any trail bashing lasts less than a day! It put a good 2 foot overnight and has been snowing all day again. The forecast is for snow for the rest of the week too. Update from today here: https://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents
Headed into the Upper Gorge today. Things massively buried, particularly at the lower grades. Tracy's Eyes (WI3) for example is completely unclimbable (see pic). Climbed Nedre Svingfoss (WI3) which was cruddy due to being insulated by all the snow. Ended up on Sabotorfossen (WI5) which is in great condition, giving steep climbing on first time placements with good screws. Only managed 2 pitches due to time, but will be back for the rest.
Further up the gorge the same theme continues - there is a LOT of snow here, making things hard to access. Juvsoyla (WI6) look in good nick. See pics.
If you're coming to Rjukan in the near future, seriously consider hiring snow chains. Our car is currently stuck in the Ice Park carpark.
Today we headed to Vermork Bridge & the Ice Park. The artificial lines are non-existent at the moment. We climbed the natural lines Vermorkbrufoss Ost (WI 4) and Vest (WI 5). The former gave good steep climbing, but the ice was cruddy and screws useless. A full rack of Screamers would have been great.
The latter however was much better and deserves its 3 star status.
Seems that anything under 'steep WI 4' is cruddy at the moment, as the snow has been insulating things too much. Plenty to go at on the steeper stuff though. All good.
Things a lot warmer today - + 1 degree at Vaer and +4 or so in Rjukan centre. Lots of water around and routes dripping a fair bit. Snow has stopped too, for now. Forecast to be warm again tomorrow, then cold on Tues. To be honest, although not great for tomorrow's climbing, longer term it will be good for the routes and the snow pack. Today the snow was a lot wetter and there was evidence of a few small slides on the slopes of the Upper Gorge. Great snowman-making conditions though! Pics at: http://www.facebook.com/lakelandascents