In reply to UKC News:
Thought I better try and clear up a couple of points.
Firstly I wrote the story but not the introductory paragraph. It should be 'Italian' climbers NOT french as a lakeland climber pointed out! Get it corrected UKC!
Matt and I have claimed the first 'integral' ascent and have never said anything different.
H. Marguerettaz and G. Sappa climbed the first ~300m in 1983 and named the climb 'Supercouloir de Peuterey'. I do not know what different guidebook editors thought about the original ascent was as it did not exactly end at an obvious point. Despite quite a bit of digging I never found any reports about it or reference to it in any guidebooks.
If anyone has any other questions then please add to the thread and I'll try and get them answered.
Most importantly its a brilliant route so get yourselves up there for some fun climbing.
Post edited at 09:58