In reply to Robert Durran:
> I reckon the best way to improve technique is to work on problems which initially seem too powerful and then play around with the footwork and body tension and position. That way, you learn technique and get stronger at the same time.
Completely agree. I'm lucky enough to be able to use a training facility set by Andy Long, a massively talented/in-demand route/problem setter. My initial response was always limestone inspired thuggery (OK, I admit it!) But Longy will rarely let you get away with this. Things are set so cunningly (lots of volumes/three dimensional stuff) that you have to get body position and 'technical foot faggotry' right - just to get into position. And then you often have to pull like f*ck!
It was an eye-opener for me. Once when I was whinging (as you do), one of Longy's mates casually remarked, "Well Malcolm (Smith) had to learn all this three-dimensional stuff too.." Gulp! OK, back to my Diff, with renewed spirit.
Mick