UKC

Which route do you aspire to do the most in the alps and why? Just curious to know what every one wants to do. In need of some inspiration after a long lay off...

Dave

In reply to Dave Searle:

There's a whole bunch:

1938 Route on the Eiger - the history, everyone knows it, adventure route

Walker Spur (also Croz) - looks amazing

Hyper Couloir - amazing line, looks awesome climbing wise

Super Couloir - just look at the line here - http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/7371846-super-coul...

Peutery Integrale - big long, multi-day committing route.

In reply to Dave Searle:

Peutery Integrale.

In reply to Dave Searle:

1938 route on Eiger.

In reply to Dave Searle:

For a while i had longings to do an ascent of the North face of the Scheidegg Wetterhorn (neighbour to the eiger). It hadnt had a British ascent as far as i could tell in the late 90's, early 2000's. It looked like total adventure, but i got sucked into the obsession with its more well known neighbour and never ventured onto it.
James

In reply to James Edwards:

A bit along Jame's thoughts (though never got around to) the more remote and non-classic six stuff has always appealed... good example being the likes of the Finsteraarhorn NE spur http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2004_files/AJ%202004%2017...

In reply to Dave Searle:

Any route up the Verte, or Jorasses, they are the only big summits around Mont Blanc that I haven't ticked.

In reply to Dave Searle:

Either anything on the Freney Face so that I would have climbed on every every face and ridge on Mont Blanc, or the N.Face of the Droites because I went up to do it eight times in the eighties but never got it done and it's bugged me ever since.

In reply to James Edwards:


The Direct was done early 90's by a couple of mates from Cumbria ( at the time ).

They had a bit of an epic, no wonder its route 100 in Extreme Alpine Rock.

I think the other route further right has had a few more British ascents.

Looking from the base a few years ago the 1923? original route does not look an easy option. Amazing route for the day.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Twice for the Freney and thrice for the Droites for me. Bugged also.

I have always fancied the Schneidegg Wetterhorn and the Geneva Pillar on the Eiger. An expensive hobby coverting routes in the Oberland though.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Isn't it just! I might have to stick to the chamonix hills.

In reply to Rick Graham:


I agree, though there is the South Pillar of the Schreckhorn that I fancy, with a traverse to the Lauteraarhorn after.

Dave got me thinking of big link ups that'd be nice. I want to head along Rochefort Arete then traverse Grandes Jorasses, I wonder if you could traverse to the Triolet, Droites, Verte and Dru after?

In reply to jonnie3430:

Hi John,

I've done S Pillar of the Shreckhorn.

Colton/Brookes, Les Droites. That white line, cutting diagonally across that rock shield, what a stunning line!

Stuart

In reply to Dave Searle:
Colton macintyre - Grand Jorasses (it's the Jorasses, it's bound to be good)
Walker spur - Grand Jorasses (how hard can it be?)
Colton Brooks - Droites (the line and location)
Supercouloir - M.Blanc du Tacul (skin, climb and ski, all in a day)
1938 route - Eiger (The history and adventure)
Peutery Integral (my it's long)
Too late to say I'm sorry - Vertes (just look at that ice smear!)
That Mark Twight route on the Pelerins
Divine Providence - (Pft, as if I'll ever be that good!)
North Couloir - Grand Dru (it's a N.Face, enough said)

Want more? I have a A4 page of alpine wish lists climbs

In reply to Rick Graham:

Yes it was the direct I was lusting after. Good to hear that it had been done. I missed seeing any report of their ascent but I probably looked and asked in the wrong places.

I will cross that off the list.

Viv I agree with you on the Finsteraarhorn. I saw a great picture of, I think, Dick Renshaw, on it and thought I'd like some of that!

James

In reply to Dave Searle:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65173
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=262194

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=214193
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=160080

In reply to Dave Searle:

I'm scared of snow, ice and things falling on me, so ...

Marmolada South Face: Don Quixote or Vinatzer/Messner

Salbit West Ridge

Aig. du Dibona - this one is top of the list for this summer, and hopefully a bit less aspirational than the first two.

In reply to Dave Searle:

Hi well if i ever get the chance money etc then Zinalrothorn summit just amazing, pinnacles ridges a great mix

Paul

In reply to Dave Searle:

Dream list, mixed with some more realistic aspirations:

Jorasses - Belle Helene
Droites - Ginat
Grosser Fusstein - NE pillar
Finsteraarhorn - NE pillar
Eiger - 1938 route
Civetta - Phillip/Flamm
Matterhorn - Zmutt ridge or classic N face

In reply to cb294:

It was alaways Eiger 1938 routes for all the obvious rerasons.

But I think now it would be a traverse of the Chamonix aguiles.

Not quite the same history but probably more enjoyable, and more suited to my abilities!!

In reply to Dave Searle:

I can vouch for the 1938 route being awesome.. There's not much in condition out here at the moment by the sounds of it.
Perhaps some big link ups on ridges as jonnie said would be good if we have some stable weather.

Beyond Good and Evil!

(BTW it's the utterly stunning Mark Twight line that Chris couldn't remember the name of.)

In reply to Dave Searle:

Eiger - 1938 Route
Matterhorn - North Face Classic
Les Droites - The Ginat or Colton Brooks
Supercouloir

For starters

In reply to Dave Searle:

youtube.com/watch?v=FMCXaUysLEU&

In reply to Dave Searle:

Also some silly link-ups that I'd like to do. Frendo Spur followed by Gervasutti Piller. North face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey followed by something above the Freney basin.

In reply to Dave Searle:

As a man with a little girl creating lots of fun but giving little time, it's more realistic ticks than ultimate ticks for me so this year hopefully fil a plomb and eugster direct to get up the front face above chamonix on an icy technical line which has been a wish for a couple of years, let down so far by weather on my week away!