In reply to CurlyStevo:
> "It WILL put scratches in the carabiner which don't really reduce the strength of the carabiner but WILL cut through a rope in a fall."
You can't edit old posts though, so seems unfair to continue quoting this when I put the correction in my second post quite a considerable time ago!
> As a sub point I find if I am sharing gear with new partners the chance of the wrong end of the quickdraw being clipped to the gear / bolts is quite high, this hasn't caused me any problems.
You could apply this argument to anything though.
'If I am sharing gear with new partners the chance of them clipping in with a snapgate is quite high, this hasn't caused me any problems.
If I am climbing with new partners the chance of them building a terrible belay is quite high, this hasn't caused me any problems.
If I am climbing with new partners the chance of them accidentally unclipping me on a belay ledge is quite high, this hasn't caused me any problems.
If I am climbing with new partners the chance of them letting go of the brake rope is quite high, this hasn't caused me any problems.'
None of this makes it OK! Also I suspect in practice all climbers are likely to experience a cut single rope in a fall between 0 and 1 times... (with a few lucky exceptions)
In summary, you shouldn't do it and you should make sure no-one else you are climbing with does it either, which we agree on in principle if not in significance.
And in response to Fraser, yes I would avoid clipping my rope into a crab that has been clipped into something sharp; however, I recognise that this is a much harder thing to achieve. For example, it would be fine to clip into a belay anchor with some screwgates (as you are not falling on it) but it is a certain amount of faff to designate some screwgates for bolts/pegs/wires and some for soft goods etc etc. In some circumstances it would be safer/better to bring fewer screwgates, so the case here is not as clear-cut. But for quickdraws, there is a right way up and a wrong way up, and an obvious mechanism of failure (quickdraws regularly take falls).
Post edited at 13:39