/ Taping wrist injuries?

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lady_radiation - on 29 Jan 2014
Hurt my wrist pulling on a slopey hold bouldering. I often have nagging pains in my wrist but last night I got a a really bad shooting pain that made me pop off. It hurts when I flex my little, ring and middle finger but not so much my index. It also hurts when I pick things up (the kettle etc) and form a fist.
I'm guessing it's a ligament injury and am thinking of booking an appointment with a sports physio.
But in the mean time does anyone have any advice for taping so I can try to keep climbing? I know it might not be wise but I feel like I'm finally getting somewhere and don't want too much time off.
James Malloch - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:

Having only climbed for 1 week in the past 2.5 months due to a wrist injury (which I made worse in the week of climbing when I thought it was okay), don't bother. See a physio.
mike123 - on 29 Jan 2014
In reply to James Malloch:

+1. (it wont let me post just that. you ll just make it worse. but if your anything like me and, i suspect the majority of people on here, it will take you years of pain and fustration to work it out for yourself).
lady_radiation - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to James Malloch:

Yeah. Seen a physio. No climbing for two weeks at least.
highclimber - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:

taping is all but a psychological comfort. have a rest. Shooting pains are never a good sign - dull aches you can usually dismiss but not if they are persistent.

I'd go to your GP first if the pain is that bad it hurts to pick up a kettle. Tendon injuries are a pain (excuse the pun) to heal and sometimes require surgical intervention (which you don't want).

GP first, Sports physio if the GP says it's ok and ask if you can be referred rather than paying - you might have to wait a while but, believe it or not, there are some excellent physios in the NHS!
rockaddict - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:
I had this same pain in my right wrist after a hard bouldering session last week. I could barely button my shirt for work the next day!

Its something that rears it's ugly head occasionally and each time i find the best cure is ibuprofen and wrap a heat patch around my wrist.

Give it a try its worked for me every time, I've had this 3-4 times over the past few years.
Post edited at 09:25
hamsforlegs - on 30 Jan 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:

I've had a minor version of this. Google 'TFCC'; basically a lump of stuff on the little-finger side of your wrist that can be torn, twisted and damaged. There are some threads on here about it.

I did manage to manage mine through rest and care, but it sounds like you have a nasty injury. It can vary from minor to very nasty, so go and get it looked at!

BTW: I found that taping didn't really help for this. As noted by others, taping rarely offers any actual structural support, and is mainly for awareness, so not helpful to actually prevent/compensate for injury.
lady_radiation - on 01 Feb 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:

Thanks for your advice guys.
The assessment I had done confirmed something I have been suspicious of for a while, I have carpal tunnel. And I had just inflamed it by pulling hard on it on the wall. Its feeling loads better but trying to be good and not climb.

The physio basically said support isn't really indicated and I just have to rest it. Apparently I might keep getting flare ups with it but just have to rest it every time I do.
Simos on 02 Feb 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:

Hmm I would have thought it's the other way round: CTS sometimes develops as a result of an injury, because of the swelling etc. In any case some rest is definitely needed, make sure you slowly get back into it when you start climbing again, it's quite easy to end up injuring yourself again after a break.. Hope it heals soon..
Dr Toph on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:
I developed CTS last year from work-related climbing stresses. Wasnt really in a position to give it complete rest, and the wrist brace I was advised to use overnight really didnt help. Then I saw this strapping system ( http://www.mycarpaltunnel.com ) which, although I wasnt going to fork out for the things, gave me an idea for a stretch which seemed to clear it up in very little time done regularly.
Extend your thumb and pinky in the 'phone me' gesture. Then place the tips of your opposite thumb and pinky against them and push back, opening the palm and extending the wrist. It opens the compression between the palmar carpals and stretches the transverse carpal ligament that causes the medial nerve constriction of CTS (like the strapping claims to).
Give it a try, hope it helps!
Post edited at 11:36
cb294 - on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to lady_radiation:

Unlik claimed somewhere further up, taping can stabilize your wrist, not only help you psychologically. However, you need someone who can show you how to apply the tape depending on your exact diagnosis and which movements you want to prevent or have to retain. Best find a physio who has experience with this kind of taping. This needs not be a climbing background, I learned wrist/hand taping from our Judo team physio, as hand injuries are common in that sport.

lady_radiation - on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to Simos:

That may be in some cases but I have had wrist symptoms for sometime and the problem last week was very acute. Definitely a flare up rather then the start.
I think in my case its genetic both my gran and my dad (who also climbs) have had the operation to correct it.
lady_radiation - on 05 Feb 2014
In reply to Dr Toph:

Thanks for the heads up on the stretch. The physio gave me some to try to but willing to try anything to recover quicker.

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