UKC

UKC conditions report - Northern Cairngorms 6th Feb 2014

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ian stewart 06 Feb 2014
I was out today in Coire an t-sneachda. Very few people climbing routes, very sensibly, with big loaded slopes and scary cornices! Most of the gullies have totally disappeared.
Away from the north facing coires conditions are ok, with Stag rocks and Lurchers seeing action this week. Hells lumm has some reasonable ice on the right, but some cornices and buried routes to avoid too.



A few pictures showing conditions here:
http://stewartmountainskills.blogspot.co.uk/
Tim Chappell 06 Feb 2014
In reply to ian stewart:

Kerrumbs. Just looking at the cornice in your sixth shot. If that's what Sneachda's like, how can things be on Braigh Riabhach??

Time to put away the axes and dig out the touring skis
In reply to ian stewart:

I've never seen it that loaded! off up there in a week's time for some touring. hoping it will stick around!
 PAJames 06 Feb 2014
In reply to ian stewart:

Very busy at Cha-no today 10 teams. The top has big fluffy cornice, lots of windslab too - http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/06-02-14-creagan-coire-cha-no.htm...
ian stewart 06 Feb 2014
In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Aye, touring is the thing to be doing right now, great snow cover higher up. I think it might stick around into about July at this rate!
In reply to ian stewart:

Hopefully the windslab will consolidate in the meantime!
kevinr 06 Feb 2014
In reply to ian stewart:

We need some cornice jumpers!
 Ron Walker 06 Feb 2014
In reply to PAJames:

Yes, hearing about the abseil queue from JP, we decided to give the area a miss and climb a few hundred metres to the south - not another sole around but got some photos looking back - photos on Facebook page!
Good firm conditions though and the windslab really not that bad where we were, considering the amount of snow, though gear hard won.
A dramatic breakdown in the weather mid afternoon made me glad I hadn't left my pack and ski poles at the foot of the route!
 Castleman 20 Feb 2014
In reply to ian stewart:

anyone been up there this week. how is it looking?
 Alpenglow 20 Feb 2014
In reply to ian stewart:

I was up there at the weekend. There was a lot a snow, more than I've ever seen before. There were huge cornices over some of fluted buttress and a few other places. Some of the buttress routes are almost buried completely (mostly Mess of Pottage and Fluted Buttress).
 stuart58 20 Feb 2014
In reply to blackreaver:

reading the log books it says addliins and central have been done this week, are these people ok or mad. Have the conditions improved that much
 Alpenglow 20 Feb 2014
In reply to stuart58:

We did a bit of The Genie and it was about V, 5 due to the lack of gear. There was great neve in the crux corner though.
 AlH 21 Feb 2014
In reply to Castleman:
A few pics from this week: http://alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk
 Erik B 21 Feb 2014
In reply to AlH: Couple of days ago Peter MacKenzie skied The Slant on Mess of Pottage, and Mirror Direct..

 Ron Walker 21 Feb 2014
In reply to Erik B:

> Couple of days ago Peter MacKenzie skied The Slant on Mess of Pottage, and Mirror Direct..

I'm surprised he didn't ski Yukon Jack as it would have been easier than traversing all the way across the Slant - or maybe he did..
ian stewart 21 Feb 2014
In reply to ian stewart:

Hi Guys,

New conditions thread started here, please update on this

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=579320

Thanks
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