UKC

INTERVIEW: 3rd ascent of Prinzip Hoffnung, 8b/+ E9/10, by Jacopo Larcher

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 UKC News 14 Feb 2014
Jacopo Larcher on Prinzip Hoffning, 8b/+ E9/10, Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria, 3 kbJacopo Larcher from Bolzano, Italy, has made the 3rd ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung, 8b/+, E9/10, at Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria.
I had a chance to have a chat with Jacopo:

You're getting more into trad and bigger walls now it seems?
Yes, I'm more interested in multi...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68719
 Wft 14 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Very cool. There's some more pictures from the first ascent on this site, looks utterly blank.

http://www.outdoorsportsteam.com/en/climbing/projects/prinzip-hoffnung/

Beat on the brat is a hero
 Jim Brooke 14 Feb 2014
In reply to UKC News:

Is there a story behind the broken wire in the picture? I was surprised it's not mentioned....
 Michael Gordon 14 Feb 2014
In reply to Jim Brooke:

I wondered about that. It looks like a nut 1/2 (micro) to me? If so, there are stronger similar sized alternatives available...
 AlanLittle 14 Feb 2014
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Small conventional wires have their place, as the different shape means they sit more securely in some placements than RP-style micros. I still carry a couple of #3 Chouinard stoppers as well as brass micros.

There's an article on the subject by DMM

"DMM Micro Wallnuts offer greater surface contact with the rock. This is an important consideration since a common mechanism for failure in real life is the nut pulling through the placement."

http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2009/08/the-micro-wire-of-choice/

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