UKC

Ok so I know this topic has been done pretty much to death on here however I have 2 questions.

I'm moving house and am going to build a wall in the yard outside our new house, I'm planning to build something along the lines of the steep face of the front block at the Depot in leeds if anyone is familiar with it (only about 3m in length).

1) Anyone managed to achieve a vague consensus of what angle is best to train on regularly (I'm thinking around 30 deg)?

2) Now this one might not have come up for a while, has anyone got a decent way of weatherproofing a wall? I'm going to have to build in the yard outside and want to be able to train year round (potentially not in horizontal rain). The wall is going to be set so that it can sit flush against the wall when not in use and then dropped onto brackets when in use. I'd rather not have a permanent roof in place and am prepared to spend a little more to meet the set up requirements, so all suggestions welcome...

In reply to EBclimbing:

I did something similar with a hinged wall. It will be heavy, and you might need some mechanical advantage to move it. Also, be very sure it can't come loose, fall down and kill you. Apart from that, have fun

In reply to EBclimbing:

The wood for mine is due to be delivered here this afternoon. I'm aiming for a 40 degree wall. I've roughly based it on the moonclimbing board, mainly as I will need help with routes and they have hundreds, roughly graded and it gives me a starter for ten even if my board wont be exactly the same dimensions. the perceived logic says that 30 degrees or other angles are fine and that you change the holds size to make it a harder or easier workout. makes sense.

cant help with waterproofing. in this monsoon maybe some climbing waders or floatation devices might help

In reply to ti_pin_man:

Check out this picture I found whilst I was researching my home build.
http://andylibrande.com/homeclimbingwall/2010/08/my-home-climbing-wall/

It shelters itself from elements and, I guess you could just use flat-roof principles on top of it?

I personally ended up deciding on building my home wall in my loft. The size is incredible and it is way cheaper and easier than building an entire support system else where.

In reply to EBclimbing:


Make it variable as it's already going to be a hinged design. 20-30deg seems reasonable as a starting point. design so it can't crush you and so it's stowed securely to stop the wind getting behind it.


If it's not roofed it'll need to be stored covered to keep it dry and even then, covered and ventilated to limit condensation.perhaps you could arrange a canvas cover that hangs down over the wall in storage but pulls out on guy lines/bungees into an awning for winter use. Fold it back out of the way in the summer.

FWIW I think an outdoor training wall is a waste of time and money but then I'm not as keen as I once was. I also think you'll find it's often too cold or damp or generally grim to use through the winter.

Waterproof materials (outdoor/marine/WBP ply, preserved timbers), stainless bolts (grease the T-nuts since I doubt you'll find stainless) and a good lick of paint where exposed should help it resist the weather for a few years. Raise it out of puddles.

jk

In reply to Gaijin:

That link carries a virus!

In reply to EBclimbing:

Hello Ed,
Give me a call later today(after 6ish) and we can have a chat.
Martin.

In reply to EBclimbing:

Great stuff so far, I've built a wall in a garage before with an adjustable angle, just a lot more limited with space this time and the obvious constraint of building outside. The loft in the new house is so limited in height I don't think it'd be worth it, 1.6m at the apex of the roof, though plenty of floor space so potentially some super steep stuff.

In reply to mwr72:

It'll have to be after the weekend Martin, I'm working for the next 3 days.

In reply to jkarran:

Cheers JK, good idea about a tarp/ canvas, I'd not thought about that, definitely save weight and effort putting it up. Enthusiasm/ keenness isn't an issue. I'm a stay at home dad during the day and day on - day off 45 min sessions on a board, to go with my other training would be perfect. I work at The Depot in leeds so I can get on the beastmaker board there fairly regularly, this should just allow me to step it up a bit.

In reply to jkarran:

The only virus I see is snow?

It's a link to some gents blog, opens fine on my lappy at work.

In reply to Gaijin:

Huh... AVG had a hissing fit an quarantined it on mine.
jk

In reply to EBclimbing:

A big question I still have is what to use for the boarding? I was planning to use OSB but from what I've read online that may not be the best option, any suggestions?

In reply to EBclimbing:

Nope, steer well clear of OSB for anything outdoors!
You need 3/4 ply, even shuttering ply is good enough, just make sure it's primed, undercoated then a few layers of paint on it(especially around the edges or any cuts, and do not overlook the bolt holes! they need priming and sealing before you T-nut the board!

In reply to mwr72:

Cheers Martin, I used 18mm OSB last time but that was in the garage so very different.

In reply to Gaijin:

Did you do it then...how did it go any pics?

In reply to EBclimbing:

Amazed you want to build a home facility if you have access at work to a professional setup.

I have a small home wall for which the angle of dangle is adjustable - by using chains and maillons.

I agree with others re exterior/interior. Small home walls are more fun to make than to use so it pays to make them as attractive and interesting as possible.

On the latter theme I have a recent idea to add interest: place the supporting beams (say 6 x 15 cm) on the front-side ie. not hidden behind. This adds a 3d touch and allows placing holds in a manner which could simulate tufa terrain. Fix the plywood at least 50cm up the supports so as not to waste valuable fixing surface.

In reply to EBclimbing:

Use marine board plywood and tanalised 2"x4". Make sure all your nuts, bolts, screws and brackets are stainless steel. Paint it in flexible wood primer then top coat in what ever outdoor wood paint takes your fancy. But really I would consider a roof and side wings. Your not going to be very motivated to climb in horizontal driving rain or freezing cold. My wall is in the garage. It's 30 degrees overhanging. I find it great for endurance laps and hard short problems. You can really injure yourself on a steep home wall. It's cold, no easy routes to warm up on. I got a cheap xtrainer from eBay to warm up on.

In reply to EBclimbing:
what about a moon baord?

http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/school/what-is-the-moon-board/

http://www.moonclimbing.com/moonboard/page.php?page=B:1

you can get all the instructions and holds from Moon and they have routes set by professionals. I am sure you can rig it so that it can be lowered into position etc.

Mike

In reply to str1nger:

Thanks for the suggestion Mike, I'm a fairly experienced route setter and climber so setting the problems etc. isn't a problem. I also like to have a bit more of a range of holds than the moon boards and it's quite an expensive way to set your board when you have access to lots of cheap holds (from work). I think mwr72 has answered my question re:materials to build it with and designs etc so cheers for that Martin.

Ed

In reply to Murd:

Currently in the process. I have cleared out and floorboarded the loft. I have installed a light and begun attaching the boards to the joists.
Currently looking around eBay for hand holds as we speak....pics to come once complete (few weeks till completion maybe?).

In reply to EBclimbing:

I've also built a wall that has an adjustable angle. I have a 2 and a half high board that is fixed at 90 degrees as the base then an 8 foot tall piece that is attached to the vertical board with hinges. Then on the top of the adjustable board (on the back) I have bolts with carabiners that clip into two chains that are attached to the supporting wall. So the lower I clip into the chain the more overhang it is.

As for weather proofing, I'd assume that a couple coats with a good sealer would be sufficient.

Have fun!