UKC

I'm really into my hard bouldering at the moment, and I've got this move that needs a lot of core strength/body tension to move feet from one side of the overhang to the other. Essentially half way to a front lever.

Anyone else ever notice that when you get tired, your core seems to go first?

Perhaps a better way to say it is my body tension disappears before my arms/fingers do.

Whenever I do a move on it's own that only works with correct body tension, it's almost easy. The minute I've done five or ten moves (enough to power me out a bit) leading into this move, I'm just slightly too tired to keep the body rigid, and I fall on that move.

Anyone any thoughts as to how to work on this? Can this be trained? More core?

In reply to kwoods:

Your weakest link will go first. For you the core, for others maybe their forearms, for me it's usually tired fingers. Work on it by adding a little extra core work. Maybe try lapping a few big moves on jugs, making sure to keep your toes on or try doing a few sets of hanging leg raises with short rest periods. I'm sure something else would work too.

In reply to kwoods:
Just because it feels/looks like your core goes, don't assume it necessarily is. If you're on better holds, you've got more in hand to allow you to manoeuvre body position and still hang the holds. If you're tired on the holds and they're closer to your limit you'll find it harder to do core intensive moves, even if your core's not tired. In the same way that you can hang holds at your limit but not necessarily move off them, but that doesn't mean that your arms are the limiting factor.

In reply to kwoods:
Pilates. It's all about core

In reply to abarro81:

Yeah that's pretty close to what I'm thinking (a reticence to blame pure strength!) Feels like the application of the muscles going awry.