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Child friendly crags

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GJohn 23 Feb 2014

Good evening all,

My partner's son is five and has been climbing for over a year now. We're looking to have our first camping/climbing trip away this summer. Clearly he's quite short so I'm looking for some routes that are easy enough for him to conquer and gain some confidence outdoors (he's really quite a good little climber for his age and size but he struggles on most graded indoor routes because the holds are too far apart) but still offer some tougher climbs for a mate and me.

Any suggestions or tips muchly appreciated. I'm in Leicester and I'm sure Stanage will have something to offer, but anything in the general Midlands area is good. Couple of hundred mile radius or something.

Thanks,

Gaz
Post edited at 21:50
 raincloud 23 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

Birchens Edge is a good place to start - plenty of easy routes and a campsite 10 minutes walk from the crag(and the Pub) -
 Nige M 23 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

Windgather is by far the best crag in the Peak for little kids because the style of weathering means that there are many breaks and reach is therefore less of an issue. The grades start from Mod and the great majority of routes are VS and below (though there are a couple of E1s). Routes are only 8-10 m and many are slabby. The crag is only 2 mins form the car and the ground beneath the crag is good for picnics. The only downsides are that it can be exposed to westerlies and it gets very busy at times (including with group use). There is also a small quarry to the right of the crag that offers easy bouldering and short routes (very easy) to get going on.

Other good spots in the Peak...

Stanage around Awl, Been Dun, Bee, Four
Stanage around Deligthtful (left of Twin Towers)
Stanage to left and right of Hampers Hang area
Burbage North
Burbage South (boulders)
Cratcliffe (boulders, but watch the drop off the back of the tor)
Baslow (Small Slab area)
Harborough Rocks

Birchen is OK but many easier routes have undercut starts that are difficult for the very small.
 Graeme Hammond 23 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:
Not for an weekend trip but have you been to Beacon hill near Loughborough which might be a good place for an evening/afternoon/day visit?

edit: I agree Nige M recommendations
Post edited at 22:21
 stevieb 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

Nige has given some good choices.
I'd probably choose Harborough if you want roped climbing; short routes, juggy positive holds, fairly safe base of the crag.
I'm planning to take my kids to Burbage South for bouldering at some point.
I've taken them to Baslow and Burbage North, and both were fine.
For a general scramble and explore, rather than routes, I would also say Robin Hood's Stride as long as you can man-mark him. Rowtor Rocks and Cratcliffe Boulders are also nearby and the Birchover campsite is pretty good.
 Andy Hardy 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:
At that age a boulder is perfect - we took kids to the boulders in the Burbage valley, near Ash Tree Slab. Stood at the top and belayed, while other adult tied them on at the bottom/ spotted/ pointed out holds. When they got bored and toddled off to build dens or go "caving" we did a bit of adult bouldering nearby. Win-win
For more of crag like feel you could try Harborough. It's got short routes and a big flat area for picnics underneath as well as a proper cave (and a limestone processing plant, for the mechanically inclined) it's a bit like a limestone Windgather.
Post edited at 08:04
 Carolyn 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

Bit further north, but Brimham Rocks makes a good day out.
GJohn 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

Some excellent suggestions (and very positive replies, thank you). He's never done bouldering before and tbh I'm not set up for bouldering. Ok by that I mean I don't have a mat...

So in general I'm keener to encourage some easy roped outdoor stuff. Toprope for him only. But I suppose that's still available with some of the bigger boulder problems.

I'm definitely a sucker for roped stuff so that would be preferable, or at least the option for some.

I went to brimham rocks as a kid and loved it.

Anyone had much success with kids of that age? Keeping the attention span can be a struggle.

Gaz

 GrahamD 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

Assuming access is still OK, you could try Markfield, which is right on your doorstep for a short morning trip out just to get used to the ropes. There is a nice slabby area round to the right.
 scott titt 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

Swanage, 189 miles, sunny!
Easy sport in the quarries Hedbury or Winspit, nice camping at Toms Field or Burnbake plus nice sandy beaches (Swanage, Studland)
 squirrel00 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

nige m is bang on with windgather my young fella loves it there only downside is the amount of sheep droppings ,just have to make sure the wee uns dont decide to park their backsides in it , because it is in abundance
 Carolyn 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

I'd say he's just getting to an age when it's worth a go - although he'll do far more in a couple of years time. At the moment it's likely to be maybe a couple of short easy routes and not a lot more.

Bouldering's worth investigating - I'm normally a multi pitch mountain trad person - but when it comes to family climbing holidays, it's hard to beat Font
 Howardw1968 24 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

If they are into climbing then attention won't be an issue especially for a five year old. My little one is 6 this week and has made several trips to curbar several times as it was convenient.
Regular breaks will be required though

Don't be afraid to put a top rope on what someone else might see as a bouldering problem. Although I wouldn't want you to create a queue!
We are planning on going to Harborough this year on a good recommendation
 deepsoup 25 Feb 2014
In reply to stevieb:

The boulders around Higgar Tor can also be a lot of fun for kids to explore. (Something of a favourite with the outdoor centres etc.. - you'll often encounter groups of kids "weaselling" around there.)
 wilkesley 25 Feb 2014
In reply to deepsoup:

Pontesbury rocks (near Shrewsbury) is another possibility. Probably further than the Peak from Leicester though.
 Iain Peters 25 Feb 2014
In reply to GJohn:

I realise that it's right at the limit of your 200m radius but Dartmoor would give you plenty of options, particularly Hound Tor and Bonehill. Excellent child-friendly climbing/svrambling/bouldering - I started there at the age of 4! Also masses of short, sterner stuff for the grown ups. Cream Teas nearby, and not too far from Torbay for the seaside.

However, for a more extended trip with little ones you can't beat West Cornwall. The annual CC Family Meet is held there and is always over-subscribed with ages from 6 months to 70+. Halldrine Cove is superb for kids, plus you've got some of the best beaches in the UK on your doorstep, and a wide choice of campsites etc.
 Carolyn 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Iain Peters:

> However, for a more extended trip with little ones you can't beat West Cornwall. The annual CC Family Meet is held there and is always over-subscribed with ages from 6 months to 70+. Halldrine Cove is superb for kids, plus you've got some of the best beaches in the UK on your doorstep, and a wide choice of campsites etc.

Any other suggestions for good family Cornwall crags? I quite fancy a trip back there - lived in Bristol for 5 or 6 years, so have climbed there a fair bit, but mainly on crags that wouldn't be very family friendly!
 Al Evans 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Nige M:

Second here for Windgather, we started James off there when he decide he wanted to climb , on the 'easy ways down' It was amazing he could use tiny holds because his hands were small like we used jugs.
The girls however both started indoors, in competitions. All three of them are far better climbers than I ever was. Just not as committed.
 Gavin 25 Feb 2014
In reply to Al Evans:

Markfield is a good call for something local (Baby's bottom slab area).

Another vote for Windgather and I'll also throw Harborough Rocks into the mix for the Peak District and Hutton Roof (158miles from Leicester) if you are heading anywhere near the Lake District.

Gavin

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