UKC

Just rethinking the grade(s) given to Highway One.

I reckon it probably just merits 7a (quite a few climbers seem to agree with this).

If applying a trad grade (because of the incomplete bolting) then I'd go with E3 6a - not E4, because in trad terms it's a relatively safe route. The moves off the ground aren't that hard to reach good wire placements, and after that any fall is a plop onto a bolt. Also, the 6a moves are isolated little sequences between partial rests, so I don't think E4 is merited on the grounds of sustainedness.

Any thoughts?

In reply to bpmclimb:

E4 if giving a trad grade. Not sustained as such but too many hard moves for E3. And while you might get a F7a out of an E3 6b (three move wonder, but hard moves), surely F7a (very) roughly equates with an E4 with a lot of relatively hard climbing - which, on first acquaintance, Highway One has.

Compare with Adjudicator Wall at E3, similar type of deal but significantly easier (roughly F6c?). Although doubtless someone will be along in a moment to claim, "Nonsense!"

Mick

In reply to bpmclimb:

The top groove was sustained when you used to have to hang on to place gear. I've not done it since it was bolted but I can imagine that it is far less serious and would therefore warrant an E3 grade. Shame on who ever bolted it.

In reply to bpmclimb:

it is bench mark 6c+ (would get 6b+ on Styx Wall!)

In reply to bpmclimb:
Judging by the comments in the database and from the few people i have spoken to who have climbed it onsight, E4 seems to be the consensus.

In reply to all:

Thanks for replies. I was just thinking about it because I shunted it yesterday. Whatever the grade, it could use some traffic - a lot of the thin flakes are peeling off as soon as you touch them - much worse than a couple of years ago.

Also looking forward to trying Luring Labia and Token Gesture (both given E4) when we get more than one dry day in a row.

In reply to Olaf Prot:

Pretty much agree with the former and unequivocally agree with the latter.

Mick

In reply to bpmclimb:

I led Token Gesture a few years ago, it didn't seem like E4 or 6a...I hadn't thought about Highway One as shunt material, being a sort of rising traverse, I suppose you can clip stuff on the ab down to help stop the swinging about....

In reply to HappyTrundler:

Yes, it works ok if you have the rope preclipped to most of the bolts (and don't mind a bit of a pendulum if you come off).

Re Token gesture: the start looks bold, so glad to hear that the climbing may not be as hard as advertised. Looks like there's a possibility of a micro or two halfway up the ramp, but I suppose one would have to be prepared to climb to the recess before getting a runner ...

Re Luring Labia: going by UKC, almost never gets done. I find it strangely appealing - like a gnarlier version of Right Unconquerable - just my masochist streak, I suppose. Shame about the name, though.

In reply to bpmclimb:

I thought it was in the region of 6c, maybe 6c+. A bit old-school. Modern climbers who train by steep bouldering on blobs would probably find it harder.

A trad grade for a predominantly bolted climb is always a bit random. It’s a pretty easy E4 in that state, certainly.

Surprised to hear it’s not popular, what with it being a local classic and very good.

jcm